Author Topic: Seal-coat  (Read 1406 times)

Offline shellback

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Seal-coat
« on: 10/07/17 19:53 UTC »
Kind of new to painting and dressing jigs for fluke. I powder paint them and after a few mistakes they seem to be doing fine my buddies and I caught plenty {never enough} fluke this year and saved some money on lost jigs, we fish sticky bottom most of the time.  Problem is the seal coat peals off. It comes off on the paint not the thread. The paint stays on fine. I use a one part dip seal coat. I have heard the two part coating bonds better. Was thinking if I lightly sand the painted jigs before seal coating them the sealer may bond better. Any suggestions?

Offline Bamafan2277

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Re: Seal-coat
« Reply #1 on: 10/07/17 20:11 UTC »
a light sanding with a fine sand paper would definitely give the coat a better surface to grip onto.

Online andrewlamberson

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Re: Seal-coat
« Reply #2 on: 10/07/17 20:18 UTC »
I use (along with a lot of others) use the CS Coatings, a sister company of Do-it. Just search CS Coatings for more input.

Just "dip and drip" !
" You can't buy happiness...But you can buy fishing gear...and that's kind of the same thing"

Online ctom

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Re: Seal-coat
« Reply #3 on: 10/07/17 20:29 UTC »
Sanding might offer a little better adhesion, but then too maybe the seal coat you are using may not be compatible with the paint. The CS sealer Andy mentions has never been a problem over powder paint that I know of. Personally I do not use a sealer on any powder coated surface.

Online andrewlamberson

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Re: Seal-coat
« Reply #4 on: 10/07/17 20:39 UTC »
CTOM brings up a good point. You shouldn't need any sealer on oven cured powder paint.
" You can't buy happiness...But you can buy fishing gear...and that's kind of the same thing"

Online Mike J

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Re: Seal-coat
« Reply #5 on: 10/07/17 21:19 UTC »
 I assumed he was talking about CS coatings Seal-coat.

I've found you need sufficient time to get this to set up hard. At least a week in my opinion.  I don't see the need for it on powder coat.
« Last Edit: 10/07/17 21:23 UTC by Mike J »

Online ctom

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Re: Seal-coat
« Reply #6 on: 10/07/17 21:37 UTC »
Shellback....sorry I missed your being new here....welcome aboard!

No mention is made of a specific brand of seal coat so who knows. The product Mike shows here I use as a dipped top coat on blade bait blanks that I have painted using air brush acrylic and I haven't had any peeling issues ever. I've used it on partially painted [sprayed again] lead heads that eyes have been applied to and not had peeling problems so I'll assume that the powder coat is where the issues lie.

The CS seal coat shown is a really upstanding product and does a super job in both the original and uv formulas.

Online Lamar

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Re: Seal-coat
« Reply #7 on: 10/08/17 04:52 UTC »
  After I powder paint my jigs I bake them at 350 for 30 minutes in a toaster oven. If you do that you won't need any clear coat. That paint will last as long as you'll ever need it. Go to https://www.tjstackle.com and watch some of their how to videos on powder painting.
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Online Muskygary

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Re: Seal-coat
« Reply #8 on: 10/08/17 06:19 UTC »
Like the others, when powder painting, I bake my jigs, then after they cool; if I'm going to put eyes on I do so with super glue (gel). Then after a day of letting them cure I will dip my jig in the Seal-coat for the purpose of holding the eyes on better. Haven't had any problems with any of the products.

Offline shellback

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Re: Seal-coat
« Reply #9 on: 10/13/17 12:43 UTC »
Thanks for the feed back guys. I use CS jig and lure finish, I bake the paint at 300 for about 40 minutes, I let them sit for 3 to 4 days before I seal them. The peal usually starts around the eyes, I do super glue the eyes in. Maybe I'm not letting the glue set up long enough or I get a little sloppy and put to much on. I seal them a few hours after I glue in the eyes. Or maybe the seal wont bond to the eye plastic. I don't know. I use the seal coat to help keep the thread and eyes protected. The sealer does not come off the thread. To be honest it doesn't effect the fishing much, the fluke seem to take the jigs with sealer or without. Maybe I'm just getting fussy in my old age. thanks again for the feedback if you guys have any suggestions let me know.

Online RufNec

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Re: Seal-coat
« Reply #10 on: 10/13/17 13:03 UTC »
CSI Seal Coat and die-cuts (eyes) don't play well together. I use CSI clear over everything that I put die-cuts on before coating with Seal Coat.

Online smalljaw

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Re: Seal-coat
« Reply #11 on: 10/14/17 11:03 UTC »
I powder paint and cure my jigs and lead baits and Seal Coat has never worked for me. I have the same issue, it has a small section come off and then I can actually peel it off by hand. I use Devcon 2 Ton Epoxy, do not use the 5 minute, it is not the same stuff and you have to apply it with a brush, it is too thick to dip. Devcon 2 Ton is much strong and will last, the Seal Coat I think is fine for crappie and panfish sized heads that aren't heavy and banging hard on rocks and substrate. Now to explain why I use the top coat in the first place is basically to seal 3D eyes most of the time but I will also use it on heads without eyes when I use my own custom glitter colors, I think the topcoat gives the glitter a brighter flash.

Online ctom

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Re: Seal-coat
« Reply #12 on: 10/14/17 12:14 UTC »
I've never baked the CS lure coat so I can't say one way or the other if that creates a problem with eyes adhering. I can say that on my own personal jigs, blades, plastics....I don't use eyes as I think they are a total waste of time. The fish could give a hoot. On a cured powder coat surface I would super glue the eyes in place if you wanted them and then I'd just give a light coat of epoxy to act as a cover or seal coat. Like Smalljaw, I will cover coat a head without eyes using a clear base with either a very fine glitter or a hi lite/pearl powder in very tiny amounts mixed in to act as an interference color.

Offline shellback

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Re: Seal-coat
« Reply #13 on: 10/21/17 06:06 UTC »
Cant thank you guys enough, some very helpful information. Another question, what to do with lead jigs that have broken hooks or they are so beat up they look like they invaded Normandy or you just don't like the color or bucktail. I used goof-off thinner on a couple to get the paint off. Are they ok to melt down with paint on or should I just thow them away?

Online ctom

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Re: Seal-coat
« Reply #14 on: 10/21/17 06:11 UTC »
I have a gas hot-plate and a 2 quart cast iron pot that I set up in the garage with the doors open and use it to smelt lead. I just toss the heads in there when the lead is fluid and skim the broken hooks off with the slag. Don't do this in the house or a closed structure though. If I don't have a decent breeze while I do this I set up a pair of 30" fans to move the air thru and out of the garage.