The floats are made from 5/8" square stock built up using two 5/8"W X 1/4"T stock balsa with two 1/4"W X 1/8"T balsa sandwiched between them leaving a 1/8" space in the center. You can see the 1/8 X 1/4 by looking at the side of the upright piece. The stock is cut off at 1 5/8" length. When finished turning the bodies measure 5/8" at the widest spot. The length is random but between 1 3/8" and 1 1/2". The stem stock is 1/8" acrylic, cut to 1 1/2" in length then marked at 3/4" with a marker. The line hole is about 3/32" from one end of the rod and is 3/64".
I use 3" 10-32 machine screws with the cap end cut off as an arbor to screw the body stock onto then set the arbor in the dremel. To shape initially I use the lowest setting using medium sheetrock sanding screen. Once the basic shape comes around I slip a 1/2" long piece of 1/8" square balsa in the top end of the blank and measure the blank from the bottom to 1 1/2" and make a black line, then power up to about 4 and use a fine hacksaw blade to trim the top end off while the dremel is running. Zip. Quick clean cut off then set out to get the rough shape dialed in using the sheetrock screen. When I think its about 90% where I want it I switch to 220 grit sandpaper on the #4 setting to finish it. It takes all of three/four minutes to do this.
Once all the bodies are shaped I cut, drill and mark the rods and epoxy them in place using 20 minute epoxy. I use a toothpick to help poke epoxy into the hole and generously coat the upper end of the stem that goes into the float . Slide the rod up to the 3/4" mark and wipe off the excess epoxy and lay the float down until the glue has set/cured. I use thinned clear vinyl lure coat to seal the float bodies, dipping right up to the stem, hanging and tapping off the excess. The clear is thinned at a rate of about 2 ounces of paint to 5 ounces of lacquer thinner. The clear sealer needs to be very thin so it soaks into the wood. I do two coats. Then using the vinyl white, flame red and yellow chartreuse colors, again thinned well, I dip and tap and hang starting with one coat of white, another coat of yellow then a top coat of the flame. I like a large band of yellow as it stands out against the dark waterline. The flame is a super top color and is visible way further than you can cast.
I use 4" X1/4" balsa cut to 12" length. I then cut the 1/4 X1/8 stock as needed. I use aluminum 1/8" rod as a spacer when I lay out my first side of the body stock and use T-pins to hold the 1/8" strips in place with a metal rod between two strips. I alternate strip, rod, strip until I am out of room for more strips. I gently pull the rods and move over to continue. Once the glue has set up a bit I pull the pins carefully, apply the glue to the top piece, then sandwich the balsa between two pieces of 1X4 pine a foot long each and use hand clamps to tighten things down until all the glue is dried. I use a straightedge and a utility knife to split the stock into 5/8" square X 12" length, then mark into 1 5/8" sections and cut off using a hack saw blade.
I'll note here that this is a dusty venture. I rigged up my shop vac hose so that as I turn the bodies and sand the hose sucks up the dust, but you need to wear a face mask and glasses. This balsa dust gets into places you'll never know you had if you don't wear the safety stuff.