Author Topic: Crappie lead molds  (Read 8786 times)

Offline Denny Welch

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Crappie lead molds
« on: 02/07/13 10:36 UTC »
OK, I've already got the 1.75" crappie carrot mold and the 1.75" croaker.  I'll be ordering the 1.75" small fry, 2.25" small fry and the 1" nano.  In order of preference, what Do-It lead molds should I purchase?  What sizes should I have?  Any other hints on lead molds...barb v. no barb...wire keeper or not...collar or no collar, etc. 

Thanks.
« Last Edit: 02/07/13 10:45 UTC by Denny Welch »
Until next time.

Denny

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Offline pjmcla

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Re: Crappie lead molds
« Reply #1 on: 02/07/13 14:05 UTC »
Most folks around here will fish those type baits on either 1/32nd or 1/16th heads.  In my opinion, the heads with lead barbs tear up the baits too much.  I glue my baits to the heads.  I mostly use the plain, no collar, ball head production mold.  I mash a fair number of my heads to flatten them so stick on eyes can be applied.  Then dip in the CSI UV overcoat to keep them on better.  I also use Matzuo sickle hooks.  Either #4 or #2; with a few #6 if purely bream fishing.  Crappie.com has a good jig makers section with a sub forum on jig pouring.  The wire keepers work well but I am waiting for a production mold version.

Offline matt

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Re: Crappie lead molds
« Reply #2 on: 02/07/13 15:06 UTC »
I'm goning to be making jig head just for the the frys and some others jigs went I get that far
hooked up, its a big one
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Offline andrewlamberson

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Re: Crappie lead molds
« Reply #3 on: 02/07/13 15:39 UTC »
I really like my panfish jigs to have the wire keeper on them. For the really small baits I have to smash the wire down a bit so it doesn't tear up the bait as I put it on.

I also wrap the wire keeper (and the shank of the hook) with a fly tying thread so the crazy glue glues the bait to the keeper and hook shank better. (it also helps make a really nice looking lateral line on transparent baits!).
" You can't buy happiness...But you can buy fishing gear...and that's kind of the same thing"

Offline pjmcla

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Re: Crappie lead molds
« Reply #4 on: 02/07/13 16:44 UTC »
Andrew -  So you both wire and glue.  Must be some tough fish up your way  :D.
I was watching a show the other night and a pro was giving an interview on modifying hooks.  He tied on a single fiber from a weed guard, then he bent it, then superglued it in place as well.

Offline Billmo

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Re: Crappie lead molds
« Reply #5 on: 02/07/13 18:43 UTC »
ok so are you guys making your 1/32 round heads with the wire keeper or are you buying them? cause i can tell you i would love a wire keeper 1/32 round head.  and a 1/64 for the nano.. 

Offline pjmcla

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Re: Crappie lead molds
« Reply #6 on: 02/07/13 23:23 UTC »
Billmo - I Pour mine.  Right now the only round head mold that utilizes the wire keepers is a combo mold that has from 1/32 up to 5/16 - one of each size  ( CRJ-6-WBA ).  Several folks have altered their production molds to accept the wire keepers.  Some say that it requires little modification; but; A very light and judicious touch with the right bit in a Dremel Moto Tool. 

Online ctom

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Re: Crappie lead molds
« Reply #7 on: 02/08/13 09:10 UTC »
On the Do It molds all one has to do is lay the hooks in the mold then a hand made keeper wire made from fine stainless wire in along side the hook. Close the mold and squeeze the handles tight with one hand and give the mold a solid tap with a soft faced hammer in the other.

On 1/32 collarless heads from the pro mold I do nothing with a wire. Meaning I don't add one. Everything I do with that size of head gets super glue and that is quite plenty for panfish. The frustration levels of fiddling around with wires and hooks in that small of a head, unless of course you are spin casting, just isn't worth it. The glue is cheap and effective. If you think you need more than what glue does and want a wire, use .020 to .025 stainless, a size that will not tear up plastic too bad nor have a diameter that will distort the plastic at the keeper end. Honestly, for the few jigs a guy needs for panfish, I'd just order keepered jigs and paint them as I wished and not mess with a mold and wires if you think they are worth the trouble.

On larger jigs used for walleyes and bass, the keepers definitely have a place. Do It makes molds specifically tailored to wire keepers and the wires are offered there on the site too.

I do a lot with stinger wires and a bit with mold modification to use them and there are some things to be aware of when you are dinking with this fine wire for ANY reason. First, it is sharper than a hypodermic needle. The finer the wire, the sharper and more dangerous.  I slipped one evening when cutting wires for stingers using 58 pound test stainless. The cut end of the wire went THRU my hand at mid-palm. I had a 1/4 pound coil on the floor and ten inches of the tag end sticking out of the back of my hand. And now the real trick. I was cutting stinger wires again while watching tv one evening. I had a pile of about 300 wires on a cookie sheet when the sheet got knocked and wires flew. Many landed on the crpet, which is a grey mottled color. I spent an hour on my hands and knees scouring that carpet and picking up wires. Finally satisfied that I found them all, I put my stuff up for the night and started off to the bedroom . You guessed it. Stocking foot fool that I was I shuffled along and found the last wire with my foot and that resulted in some minor surgery to get the 4" length of wire out of the foot. Stainless wires are dangerous to work with and they can be just as bad when cast in heads, so keep that in mind. Its a catch 22.....you can't use too large of wire without wrecking plastics and the small wire has its hidden hazards to working with it.

In all my years of panfishing, the best of all plastic keepers that I have found fits in your pocket and is used a drop at a time. Super glue.
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Offline andrewlamberson

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Re: Crappie lead molds
« Reply #8 on: 02/08/13 09:58 UTC »
Try the trick of wrapping the shank of the hook with thread...then super glue.... holds like grim death!
" You can't buy happiness...But you can buy fishing gear...and that's kind of the same thing"

Online ctom

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Re: Crappie lead molds
« Reply #9 on: 02/08/13 11:03 UTC »
I agree that by adding the thread and then the glue you'll have plastics hanging on like the reaper. The more surface area you can create for the glue/ plastic bond the better. My point is that on small heads like the 1/32 the wire becomes a hassle and doesn't improve plastic holding much at all and if smaller diameter plastics get used the wire ruins more plastic than you can imagine.

Another trick very similar to your thread Andrew is to cast a 3" length of copper wire used by fly tyers into the head and then wrap it along the shank of the head for about 3/8" and glue it down so it stays put. When a plastic is slipped on another drop of glue will create a bond so tight that a core of plastic will come out of the bait if you try to remove it.
There are good ships
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always be ......An Irish Toast

Offline Denny Welch

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Re: Crappie lead molds
« Reply #10 on: 02/08/13 11:07 UTC »
Thanks, guys.  All great tips.  I think I'm going to go with the plain  1/32 - 1/16 mold with no collar or wire to begin with.  With my jitters and all, I can see stickin' myself way too often.  The production mold would interest me, but that's down the road.  What really appealed to me was wrapping the shank with tying thread and having it show up as a lateral line.  Too cool.

Now, if each of you would please give me your home and cell phone numbers I'd appreciate it.  I'm going to need someone to call when I super glue my fingers together and can't steer the boat.
Until next time.

Denny

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Offline Justin9j

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Crappie lead molds
« Reply #11 on: 02/08/13 11:12 UTC »
Denny how will you call with glued fingers?   

But I'll drive you around. 

We will go cat fishing.

Offline Denny Welch

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Re: Crappie lead molds
« Reply #12 on: 02/08/13 11:14 UTC »
Hahahahaha...I'll take you up on it.
Until next time.

Denny

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Offline Billmo

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Re: Crappie lead molds
« Reply #13 on: 02/08/13 12:43 UTC »
I too want to thank everyone for the advice and great ideas.. I dont pour my own lead, i usually get my heads from chuckanddeb.com  i think im just gonna start doing the Andy/Tom.  Im going to wrap the collar less jigs with some thread and start using some glue.. 


Online ctom

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Re: Crappie lead molds
« Reply #14 on: 02/08/13 13:27 UTC »
I was digging around in some old stuff just a few minutes ago and found a pack of 100 Mister Twister 2" chartreuse twister tails that had the reciept from 1983. Remelt time maybe. There was also a bag of jigheads with that god wawful barb sticking up. Memories........
There are good ships
and wood ships
ships that sail the sea
but the best ships are friendships
and may they
always be ......An Irish Toast