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Every mold should have laminates in mind by design....  ::)

I'm thinking that the ribs and angle top shot are the culprit.
Mike it may well be. I know it's by far the worst mold i've ever tried to do laminates in.
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Whoa nellie.....! Are you talking about 3" or 3'5" Essential Ripper mold? If so, those really are not formatted for twin injection. Never were. You can get reasonable split colors by injecting with a dud color, then removing the top two baits, right and left top ones and leave the rest of the injected dud color as a stopper, then inject with the twin injector, slowly. If you do not stop the plastic by leaving the lower portions in the mold, mixing will be your life.  I have that mold, and it sits with the dud color "stopper" in it from the first shot done using it. The mold is fine but it was never meant to do a full mold of laminates like the Slick Shiner that has individual injection ports to allow for laminates.
Tom i'm talking about the XL series mold which does have individual injection ports.
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General Discussion / Re: Essential series Xl swim ripper mold?
« Last post by 21xdc on Today at 18:57 »
Every mold should have laminates in mind by design....  ::)

I'm thinking that the ribs and angle top shot are the culprit.
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General Discussion / Re: Essential series Xl swim ripper mold?
« Last post by ctom on Today at 17:14 »
Whoa nellie.....! Are you talking about 3" or 3'5" Essential Ripper mold? If so, those really are not formatted for twin injection. Never were. You can get reasonable split colors by injecting with a dud color, then removing the top two baits, right and left top ones and leave the rest of the injected dud color as a stopper, then inject with the twin injector, slowly. If you do not stop the plastic by leaving the lower portions in the mold, mixing will be your life.  I have that mold, and it sits with the dud color "stopper" in it from the first shot done using it. The mold is fine but it was never meant to do a full mold of laminates like the Slick Shiner that has individual injection ports to allow for laminates.
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General Discussion / Essential series Xl swim ripper mold?
« Last post by Les Young on Today at 16:52 »
I’ve tried temps from 300 to 350 & absolutely cannot get a good laminate.  It mixes no matter what I do. Looks like I’ll be making single colors with this piece of  ****.  Lol It’s an awesome mold for single colors but by far the hardest mold I’ve ever owned to try to do laminates with.  Why does it mix so bad?
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Crappie / Pan Fish Jigs / Re: Beaked hooks vs straight
« Last post by ctom on 03/22/25 08:14 UTC »
Not much "bend" in either of these hooks. The wire is pretty stiff for the diameter. I've never had a hook snap off or the tip break off while fishing but I have had them snap off while trying to make an adjustment.
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Crappie / Pan Fish Jigs / Re: Beaked hooks vs straight
« Last post by Les Young on 03/22/25 08:09 UTC »
Bend that sickle out a bit and your hookups should increase. Not a big fan of circle hooks which have that inverted hook point especially on fish that just nip at the bait. Maybe they’re great for salt water but not so great for freshwater, IMO.
Yep i totally agree. 
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Crappie / Pan Fish Jigs / Re: Beaked hooks vs straight
« Last post by Apdriver on 03/21/25 19:23 UTC »
Bend that sickle out a bit and your hookups should increase. Not a big fan of circle hooks which have that inverted hook point especially on fish that just nip at the bait. Maybe they’re great for salt water but not so great for freshwater, IMO.
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Crappie / Pan Fish Jigs / Beaked hooks vs straight
« Last post by ctom on 03/21/25 17:42 UTC »
Last fall a buddy and I were crappie fishing, and I started to become aware that I was missing maybe 20% of my hits. At first I thought it was the plastic not being mounted quite right but that wasn't it when I checked. Anyway, we finished the morning of fishing and after getting back home I checked that jig to see if I was missing something. My buddy pointed out the that hook had a pretty severe dip in the point. The hook in question was the Victory 11149 Sickle variety, one that I've cast literally thousands of jigs on since they came out. I got the box of hooks down off the shelf and we started to snoop thru them and found that most all of the hooks were indeed beaked pretty radical. I dug out a box of old Matzuos in the same size [6] as well as a box of Lil Nastys in size six and yup, they all were beaked. Being curious I brought down a box of the Victory 10575 size six hooks and, wow, the difference in the hook's point was amazing. I got a pic of two 1/16 head with wires, both cast on #6 hooks: the top jig being the 11149 Sickle and the bottom the 10575 You can see the dip in the Sickle variety as compared to the other which is as straight as an arrow.

I decided it was time for a little test in really so I cast a half dozen of the 10575's in sixes and took them along with my stash of the number six Sickles to the river this morning. I started my morning with the Sickle variety because its been my go-to for as long as the hooks have been made available. Using a 2-1.4" minnow bait in junebug with a chartreuse tail, my first ten hits resulted in six hook-ups with 5 fish landed. Then I cut the Sickle off and tied on the 10575 variety hook, still in size six. The same bait was hung on the jig. The next ten hits resulted in ten landed fish. I tried hard to keep the actual hook sets the same as far as how hard I set the hook. I think I'm pretty consistent in that department so I'm not including the hook set in the observation. But I'm letting what I experienced be a deciding factor in future jigs. As far as sharp in concerned, both the 11149 and the 10575 are about as sharp as any hook I have used so I'm really focused now on that turned down point.

Don't get me wrong: Sickle hooks have been extremely good to me ever since Matzuo first came out with them. And after Eagle Claw started with the lil nastys I've been a loyal user of those until Victory introduced their Sickle hooks and they've been the standard for me since then. Still, I'm going to spend the rest of this season using the 10575 hooks for my crappie and walleye jigs just to see if I've missed the boat using Sickles so steadfastly.

I'll also point out the keeper wire. On crappie sized plastic I cut the keeper barb back by about 50% before painting and curing. On narrow baits with the wire as it comes it would sometimes split a bait. Reducing the height of the barb still allows the plastic to stay firmly attached but doesn't result in the splitting on narrow baits.

I'm really curious if any others here that have cast the two different hooks have experienced anything like I have.

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General Discussion / Re: SWIMBAIT COLORS?
« Last post by Muskygary on 03/21/25 08:58 UTC »
Thanks Tom, I'll mix some up and see what I come out with!
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