Custom Baits - Forum
Soft Plastic Bait Making => Getting Started / Customer Support => Topic started by: Jkwbwca on 09/11/17 20:06 UTC
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I just got 3 new molds today...2 ES Beavers and 1ES Ribbon worm. Both beaver molds are getting dimples on the bottom of all injections from both molds...tried multiple clamp positions, holding for 10 sec., multiple temps.
The ribbon tail I'm also getting dimples and can't seem to fill the tail of the bottom worm.
I'm a rookie and definitely feeling like one tonight...thanks in advance for any help.
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On the ribbon worm, rub some worm oil on the tail section time improve the flow. Hot plastic will also increase flow. I shoot it at 350 until the mold gets hot.
I get dimples on the beaver molds also. I fixed it by shooting cool (310)..but make sure you get the plastic to 350 on the initial heat.
The other thing that helps is using a "reinforcer"... like string glitter or large glitter. That can help overcome "differential shrinking"... when the hot, slow cooling body "sucks in" a weak spot (the skin) as it shrinks.
Holding pressure on the injector can help also but it is a safety hazard to push hard on an injector with hot plastic in it so I keep an empty injector ready to add pressure after I fill the mold. On some molds I hold it for a 30 count.
Most of the time the cooler plastic minimizes the problem.
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Thanks Andy...I'll give those tips a try.
It's crazy how all molds behave differently.
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Not only do all molds shoot a little different.
A mold you have shot before can behave differently based upon the temperature of the mold (ie cold in the winter....or hot after you have shot it a few times) and the temperature of the plastic.
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Well still having problems...shot the beaver at 305 and 300 and still dents. I also made multiple injections of ribbon tail at 360 and 375 using worm oil in tail...bottom worm is still not complete...top is fine...some dents in ribs but not a deal breaker. I'm using essential plastic. I'm sure they'll catch fish fine but just wasn't expecting these molds to be difficult. I also use a digital temp probe that I dip in the plastic.
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I just shoot my beaver slow and don't get dents
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Well still having problems...shot the beaver at 305 and 300 and still dents. I also made multiple injections of ribbon tail at 360 and 375 using worm oil in tail...bottom worm is still not complete...top is fine...some dents in ribs but not a deal breaker. I'm using essential plastic. I'm sure they'll catch fish fine but just wasn't expecting these molds to be difficult. I also use a digital temp probe that I dip in the plastic.
I think I have a mold similar to this. The worm mold. What I found is the top mold vents to the bottom mold and blows out the plastic. IIRC, there are two injection ports. One port for each cavity. What I did to solve the "issue" is inject the bottom and as I usually shoot multiple molds of the same color or colors, move on to shoot my other molds. When I shoot everything else, come back to the other cavity and shoot it. While I was shooting the other molds, the bottom cavity set and the plastic wasn't displaced. If none of this applies, forget about it..... ;D
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I tried slow but I'll give it another shot even slower.
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No go...shot at 310 super slow held for 15 sec.
Maybe ill give do-it a call.
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With the ribbon tail I've been shooting the bottom one with the longer spru first because I figured my plastic would be hotter...maybe it would help to shoot the top one first...or not. Ill give it a shot again.
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I just shoot my beaver slow and don't get dents
I think wish4fishn is correct here, shooting the molds slowly will help. Maybe get your temperature at around 330-350 also.
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Just to double check...i went out and shot that mold last night and the mold did not get hot enough until the 3rd shot. For the 1st 2 shots I left the plastic in longer than normal to help heat up the mold.
It really didn't start behaving until about the 5th shot.
My 10" ribbon tail mold is really a pain! Once I get that mold hot enough I shoot a couple dozen!
Fyi...I cover the mold between shots with a heavy towel to keep them hot.
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Thanks a lot for all the help!!! I'll give it another go tonight.
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Andy...have you ever heated your molds in an oven/toaster oven/hot plate before shooting?
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I think a lot of people pre-heat their molds in toaster ovens but I would caution against getting any mold HOT. The metal in the molds can warp if subjected to uneven heat like what is found in those ovens. Warm, even quite warm is probably fine. Hot? I wouldn't.
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"I also made multiple injections of ribbon tail at 360 and 375 using worm oil in tail...bottom worm is still not complete...top is fine"...
I had the same problem and finally figured out that the vent port was insufficient on the cavity that would short-shoot. I took a mini file and really cleaned it out and slightly enlarged it and now they both shoot perfect. If I remember correctly, there is a 90 degree bend in the vent port channel... that's where the clog was.
This is my favorite ribbon worm ever!
Marc
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Ctom is correct. Warm in the oven...not hot.
Living in Minnesota and shooting in the garage, the challenge is to keep them hot between shots!
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Well good and not so good...put worm mold in oven at 170 for 5 min. On the 3rd shoot I got a keeper from the bottom worm! Put a towel around mold...shot a 4th time and not so good. At least I got 1 good one. I then took a dimpled beaver mold to a lake within a mile of my house to see it's action and got a large dog fish from shore. I'm a bass fisherman but that is still cool to me.
Ill keep trying on the ribbon and maybe check the vent by the tail.
Thanks for all the advice!
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I preheat my molds on an electric griddle. Set it on low, throw my mold/molds and injectors on it then let everything warm up while I get everything else set up. If I get sidetracked and my molds will be sitting for a little bit then I toss them on the griddle to keep them warm. I bought a cheapy griddle at Walmart but you can find them at a thrift store too sometimes.
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I do the same 2XL. I routed out two slots in one side of the electric skillet to let my injector's handles stick out allowing the injectors to lie flat inside. Usually keep the temperature set on warm. I only use it for my injectors during summer months. The molds stay warm enough just from shooting.
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This may be a dumb question but do you leave the nozzle on when the injector is on the griddle? Of course it has a high heat o-ring but I wouldn't want to cause a problem there. I have always poured my plastic into the injector. Also does heating the injector make a big difference...to me that seems to heat up quick as it's fairly thin. I'm certainly willing to try everyone's tips and tricks if the end results are great looking baits.
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Yes, I leave the injector nozzle attached. I used to pour into my injectors. I left the nozzles off, but still warmed them in the skillet. Since I bought Rite Hete pots, I suck the plastic from the pot to fill the injector. As long as you don't overheat the injectors it shouldn't be a problem with the o-rings. 300° would make the injectors way too hot to handle safely. Nitrile gloves will suffer heat damage at that temperature and above. Between 125° & 175° is as warm as I heat molds and injectors. Just enough to take the chill off. Heating the injectors reduces the amount of plastic setting up in the tube.
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Bought a griddle tonight...pre-heated molds and injector. Worked great for beaver as plastic flowed out of nozzle better...I had been pouring plastic in. This allowed me to inject much slower...baits came out much better...only a couple of small dimples. With the worm it still didn't work. I then used a blade and widened the vents from the middle of the worm to the tail. Got a full worm.
I think the combo of all the advice was the solution.
Thank you to all for the help!!!