Custom Baits - Forum
Soft Plastic Bait Making => Soft Plastic and Plastic Baits - How To??? => Topic started by: Canga~ on 09/04/18 06:19 UTC
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i have the 3" cnc ripper, as well as the 3.5" ES ripper. i have seen many pics of them in 2 colors, and im wondering, with the orientation of the mold the way it is, is it possible to do it with the dual injector or is all cut/paste?
i dont have my injector yet (its ordered though! cant wait to try the basstackle injectors/twinjector!) so im trying to figure out if its possible to do it on the ripper.
thanks for any help!
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On the cnc mold simply line up the blending block on the mold so the mold and block are at right angles to one another and inject slightly slower to get good color separation. I'm not positive on the ES mold how multiple cavities fill but the bottom cavity should fill nice doing it as just mentioned, but leave some baits in the cavities of those above the bottom bait so plastic usage isn't so great.
I modified a cnc mold to inject straight in from the end instead of having the port at the top and a runner to the side and that puppy makes a super two color Ripper, but the single cnc molds shot as first described get the job done too.
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I have an ES 3.5 ripper, The single cavity shoots good with a dually,
But the 2 cavity gives cool swirled results...from my experience
If your looking for a clean color change I don't thin that mold will do it on the 2 cav....Plus the way the mold is built getting the tails back in is nearly impossible I don't know if this helped you any
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Helps greatly, thanks!
I don’t need the laminate to be perfect, in fact I prefer a broken line. I have been making some 2 color baits using a piece of aluminum foil (2” senkos and a bts 702 craw) and the results have been pretty good, looking forward to making the process quicker and being able to do some swimbaits too (also have the angling ai lil hammer on the way soon)
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You can laminate with the ES mold. On the side with 2 cavities you need to block off the sprue to the bottom bait in order to get a good laminate. I do this by shooting that side with some junk plastic and then just cut the sprue off. After that you can laminate to your hearts desire and just keep cutting off the sprue.
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I have had no success with any of this with the ES Ripper. Made some core shot inserts which work well and the baits have a laminate look which is pretty good.
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Plus the way the mold is built getting the tails back in is nearly impossible
Try brushing a little worm oil where the tails slides back into the mold. It will slide right in.
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You can laminate with the ES mold. On the side with 2 cavities you need to block off the sprue to the bottom bait in order to get a good laminate. I do this by shooting that side with some junk plastic and then just cut the sprue off. After that you can laminate to your hearts desire and just keep cutting off the sprue.
Are you saying that by doing this that you’ll get a single correctly laminated bait every shot? When you say cut spruce off I’m assuming you leave the bottom Bait in the mold & get a laminate with the top cavity.?
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Right. Just cut the runner off right at the bottom of the top cavity's gate.
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Sure would be nice for them to have a option for top inject.
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Sure would be nice for them to have a option for top inject.
Look up fat guys fishing on Facebook (and their website) the slim rip and rip Shad are similar and come in top inject versions. I have the 3” in both versions and they are awesome molds. Also have multiple cavities (10 on the slim, 8 on the rip Shad) The slim has a similar action to the Doit ripper, the rip Shad is a little more subdued but still has a good action.
I have the 3.5” slim rip ordered, can’t wait to get it!
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(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200409/97ba6924ec2809316369a4c59e8a6c98.jpg)
3.5 LC this is a top pour haven’t had a chance top do a laminate yet.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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I broke down and bought a CNC Ripper and I can't get that to laminate properly either. I think I saw someone say that you can make it work with using different temps on the plastisol, maybe hotter flows faster or something. Thoughts? Don't want to buy another whole set of a different mold, the Ripper is a fantastic bait.
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Having the temps within 10 degrees of each other is important. Mold design is also. I see the runner makes a 90 and then goes through the gate. Make sure you align the top color correctly but with that 90, not sure you’ll ever get it how you want it.
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Try slowing the injection speed too.
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Hotter temps meanthinner plastisol. This it turn makes the colors mix easier
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I've used a dual injector on my single ripper cnc mold.
Turned out fine. I just made sure both injectors had color to the very tip. Then shot the mold with a slow steady push of pressure. Rushing or over pressuring doesn't leave a good laminate line.
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This is one of two modded 4" Ripper molds I have. You can see how the end injection is set up with the high temp putty closing off the original runner. You can also see on the alignment pin side of the mold how I have cleaned out for the hook pocket insert. This makes a super slick bait.
(https://i.imgur.com/jXbenpz.jpg)
Here are three of the 4" Ripper baits done in the converted molds. Very clean color separation and you can also note the rigged bait and how the pocket along the back hides the hook making the whole thing about as weedless as weedless can get.
(https://i.imgur.com/Kl18jHu.jpg)
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I use a Fluoroplastic Soft Mold Injector to make 2 good drops on each side of the mold
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(note: the mold need to be hot to get a good fuse)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f6r1ArshogA
20 ml up to 45ml are a good one hand
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This is one of two modded 4" Ripper molds I have. You can see how the end injection is set up with the high temp putty closing off the original runner. You can also see on the alignment pin side of the mold how I have cleaned out for the hook pocket insert. This makes a super slick bait.
(https://i.imgur.com/jXbenpz.jpg)
Here are three of the 4" Ripper baits done in the converted molds. Very clean color separation and you can also note the rigged bait and how the pocket along the back hides the hook making the whole thing about as weedless as weedless can get.
(https://i.imgur.com/Kl18jHu.jpg)
I don't understand why you had to make a different fill sprue.......Mine shot fine with the original....Also wondering why the hook slot.....I've just slightly pegged the hook and haven't had problems....
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These fish totally weedless using the weighted hooks having the hook slot on top, yet instantly allow the hook to bite when a fish hits. Keitech's Fat Swim Impact baits have the top hook slot and have been murder on large pike for a few years now so I decided to incorporate a top slot in these baits. 100% my preference.
The end injection allows a straight in fill that gets super nice color separation....having the plastic colors needing to turn the corner as with the side fill allows too much mixing for my likes. Again, 100% my preference.
Neither of these changes are needed if you're happy with you baits as the come from the original mold. I wanted more from the molds so I made the changes, simple as that.
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My first post here. I have tried to make laminates with the 3"ES, it's very difficult to do because of the bait layout and injection ports. If I want laminates to be perfect I do handpours. But I do have good success with a 2 color ripper. Tail and body. Like eveyone has said when I try to laminate this mold , most of the times it's a swirl, which in its on right is cool.