Custom Baits - Forum
Soft Plastic Bait Making => Getting Started / Customer Support => Topic started by: Reef Inmate on 02/14/12 12:00 UTC
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HI guys
I am totally new to this and was wondering if there is a tutorial for beginners like me on this board? There is so much information posted and just not enough time to go through it all let alone find it all.
I understand I need a mold, injector, some plastisol, pigment and so on. Then I heat up the plastisol in a pot on the stove with an accurate thermometer. The temp Im not sure about yet. Do I then pour it into the injector and inject into the mold? Or is it just a trail and error process for each newbie like me?
If there is a step by step tut please point me to it.
Thanks a mill ;)
Leigh van Zyl
Maun
Botswana
Southern Africa
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We need to make a manual... However, until that happens, I would start with these two videos and then let the questions fly:
http://youtu.be/hIxwjX9dwG0
http://youtu.be/vX6ra2vm2dw
Jason
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As a quick start; I would suggest going to You Tube and Type in something like "Injecting plastic baits" or the sort. The videos will give a pretty good overall flavor. The vast majority of plastic pourers use a microwave; at least as a starting point. Heat resistant gloves are a must. A way to ventilate and fume protect as well. Clamps for the molds and pyrex or high temp silicone cups. A good IR thermometer is a great tool to have as well. Make sure your molds are clean and well clamped with two clamps ( or more for large molds ).
The basic process is to heat the plastisol to a nominal 350 degrees in several steps; slowly stirring at each step. Stir in your colors and glitter. Top off the heat in the microwave to get back to 340 +/-. Draw up a full injector of plastic. Place the injector onto the mold and form a seal with light downward pressure. Carefully inject the plastic into the well clamped mold. Not real fast or real hard. Hold very light pressure on the injector for a few seconds to help ward off incomplete cavities due to cooling draw down. Top off the mold sprue as you remove the injector. On to the next mold. Wait until the plastic has fully set up and cooled some ( this is very dependent on cavity size ) and carefully remove the baits and runners from the mold. Lay the baits out to "cure" keeping them straight.
There are many variations to the basic "dance". Colors and glitter can be added to the cold plastic if you already know the "formula". Some heat with just a very few heating cycles. Some keep their injectors "preheated" by placing on griddles, as well as keeping pyrex cups of plastic on the griddles. Many use "presto pots" to heat or hold their plastic at temperature if they are going to mold a lot of baits.
Others; please fill in where I have left out, or add missing concepts.
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Cool that's a great start, thanks guys.
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Next question is how do the eyes work? Do you apply them to the bait after it is molded or do the eyes fit in the mold before injecting the plastic?
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After.
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After the baits are poured and have "firmed up" to where you can handle them without "warping" you stick the eyes on and dip them in hot ( 340 - 350 ) clear plastisol. Some hang them after holding them vertically over the cup until the drips stop. Some hold until the nose drips stop and place them in a bowl of cool water. Keep the water away from the hot plastic if you use this method. Also, some believe the cool water method does not allow as strong of a bond as the air dry hanging.
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Yep, you need to fabricate some sort of rack to hold your baits. Here's a pic from someone on the forum who knows how to do it right!
http://www.caneycreekmolds.net/index.php?topic=28.msg2273#msg2273
Do a search here, there are a few more nice looking racks. ::)
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Ok great. I am keen on two molds to start, the 10" ribbon tale worm with the tail mold and the 5"wutz-it with lami plate. I am going to try a local South African supplier of plastic as the shipping on liquid over 10000 miles I feel is just going to be way to much. Please could some of you experienced guys advise me on which plastic to use for the 10" worm and tail and for the 5' wutz-it.
The local supplier offers Philate free super soft, soft, medium and hard.
Thanks
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Jason designs his baits for the CCM Medium plastic....so I would go with their medium.
I ONLY inject medium now. On very rare occasions I put some drops of softener in it for a panfish bait...but the softer the plastic is..the more easily it tears.
Depending on the quality of the plastic you can get, you can remelt your used baits for remolding (make sure they are completely dry...water and hot plastic don't mix!!!!). So you may want to order some softener and heat stabilizer with your molds if your supplier doesn't have some that is recommended for their plastic.
Andy
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You will find the Wutz-It an easier bait to "start off" with. I suggest using this mold as your first session starting point. Remember the Personal protection -- High temperature Gloves, proper ventilation / respiration, eye protection. No liquids at the pouring table. Long sleeves of a pretty substantial fabric.
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Thanks guys, they do have softener and heat stabilizer, I suppose this is a dumb question but what does the heat stabilizer do?
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After you have heated/reheated the plastic a few times it will start to "burn" ....and/or discolor at your target (350 degrees F ......177 C) temperature...for sure if you let it get hotter!
The "heat stabilizer" helps keep the plastic from discoloring...which is really good if you are injecting clear or any light color. With the CCM plastic I put a few drops in after reheating 2x's (on the 3rd reheat). CCM plastic is much more heat tolerate than many of the others (in my experience).
Remember: SAFETY 1ST....read all the posts about safety, ventilation, gloves etc!!!!!! You will get a VERY bad burn at 177C !!!!
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The Wutzit mold is very easy to shoot.
The 10" ribbontail is the only mold I had to push the injector hard and fast tp get the tail to fill.
Keep that in mind.
....Bill
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Thanks
I plan on doing the tail of the worm first then the body in a different color. Hopefully it should be easier but I am going to try the watzit first.