Custom Baits - Forum
Jigs, Spinnerbaits and Sinkers => Crappie / Pan Fish Jigs => Topic started by: bryan535 on 01/16/19 19:20 UTC
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I am wanting to buy a mold for this and wondered if anyone had any ideas on how to make one? It would be a 1/16 ounce round head with no collar and a screw loc with #2 hook
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First.....Welcome to the Do-It forums.
The hooks can be laid in the mold and tapped down to imprint. Very easy. Use a plastic or rubber faced hammer or mallets to do this. If needed a fine pointed Dremel bit can clean up the new hook channel. I'd get the hooks done first, then use a Dremel to create the necessary pockets for the screw locks. Your primary issue will be the small size of the heads and all the hardware going into the heads....it may interfere with good lead flow when casting unless you use a bottom pour furnace.
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Thanks for the reply. So maybe this mold to start?
https://store.do-itmolds.com/Round-Head-JigbrPRO-101brSz-116brHk-570-or-575brCollar-None_p_508.html
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Try this:
https://store.do-itmolds.com/Shake-It-wScrew-Loc_p_904.html (https://store.do-itmolds.com/Shake-It-wScrew-Loc_p_904.html)
You should be able to put a smaller hook in there with no trouble... if you are going sub a different brand (like switching from the Gami to an Eagle Claw), you might see some flashing, but it can be easily scraped/trimmed away.
Keep asking and keep learning... and welcome aboard!
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Welcome Bryan535.
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Welcome Bryan 535
https://store.do-itmolds.com/Worm-Nose-Jig-wScrew-Locbr116-18-316-14-516-38_p_559.html
Is this the style screw lock your looking for.
If your use smaller plastics a wire keeper is better.
https://store.do-itmolds.com/Wire-Keeper-Form-WB400_p_482.html
https://store.do-itmolds.com/Round-Head-JigbrSz-116-332brHk-570-or-575brCollar-Wire-Holder_p_1138.html
And yet another option. I have caught a lot of fish big and small on the # 4 hook but the hook you want is it that your using a little bigger plastic?
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This is what I'm looking for.
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Got it, Bryan... in that case, it looks like the worm nose jig (as Walleye suggested) is pretty much going to be a match since it has a round head on the front, and once the bait is screwed on, the flat (or round) side on the back would be covered making it essentially the same to the fish.
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The problem is I want just 1/16 only. So that’s why I want to alter a mold.
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Here are the supplies you will need to get the job done Bryan. This is a 7 cavity mold and there are no spacing issues so if you truly wanted to you could modify all 7 cavities.
A little dremel work and you'll have exactly what you are looking for.
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Kyle, that is awesome! I'll post results later!!!
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Kyle it doesn’t look like to bad of a mod. It might have to try a couple cavities in the mold I have for a couple of places I fish a 1/16 and worm and just compare the screw lock to the wire keeper And see witch one holds the best.
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If this will be your first time with such modifications, have some JB putty (epoxy putty) on hand to fill in where the Dremel might have gotten away from you... press it into the gaps, install your components and let cure for a few hours... then your mold will cast like it came from the factory that way.
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I am wanting to buy a mold for this and wondered if anyone had any ideas on how to make one? It would be a 1/16 ounce round head with no collar and a screw loc with #2 hook
A small dab of super glue on the shank of the hook/bottom of the round ball will also get the job done. We us a lot of jigs out of that Pro-101 1/16 (1250) and bigger. No modification nesc. The same can be achieved with the wire keeper jig as well.
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Good tip Tommy, Thanks!
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A small dab of super glue on the shank of the hook/bottom of the round ball will also get the job done. We us a lot of jigs out of that Pro-101 1/16 (1250) and bigger. No modification nesc. The same can be achieved with the wire keeper jig as well.
The glue is what I usually do on smaller panfish baits. Those a bit larger I use the wires for the most part and both ways work very well.
I'm going to try the springs on a couple larger heads I use when casting Lake Trout plastics. Even with the double hook wire and glue some of these heavier plastics like to tear and slide on the hook. Glue helps some but maybe the spring will do a better job. Going to find out, but unless you're chucking some really large plastic the glue and wires work pretty darned good.
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A small dab of super glue on the shank of the hook/bottom of the round ball will also get the job done. We us a lot of jigs out of that Pro-101 1/16 (1250) and bigger. No modification nesc. The same can be achieved with the wire keeper jig as well.
Thanks Tommy! I'm shooting docks at the Lake of the Ozarks and trying to get away from super glue.
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Thanks Tommy! I'm shooting docks at the Lake of the Ozarks and trying to get away from super glue.
Gotcha - Somebody once said: "Super glue is forever!" LOL true story
Have you been using screw lock jigs, and if so, how have they been working out for you?
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Gotcha - Somebody once said: "Super glue is forever!" LOL true story
Have you been using screw lock jigs, and if so, how have they been working out for you?
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No I haven't but I'll let you know how they work.
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No I haven't but I'll let you know how they work.
OK - My crappie partner Mike Baker shoots a lot of docks on LOZ - I'll get the skinny from him - see if he ever used them. I also know some guys that use a single wire weed guard for going over the cables and chains, etc.
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Cold and windy here so I'm in the shop. I used the collarless Round Head Jig mold [CRJ-8-16332] that uses the wire keeper and dremeled out pockets on one of each sized cavities for the spring to lay in. That went well but the leg that gets cast in the head is offset and I needed to get the keep on the hook and in place in the mold then give the mold a swat with a plastic hammer to seat the wire. I found out the eyes aren't what they were at one time....lol
Seen in the picture are a 1/16 and 3/32 head, each with a #6318 Owner #2 hook. The 3/32 head can allow the keeper a little forward shift but the 1/16 will not handle any further forward positioning without the hook end of the arm protruding into the gate. Anyway, this is what I came up with and its really not that hard but it is a bit time consuming with the aging peepers.
(https://i.imgur.com/V0DLO8H.jpg)
I have some 1/4" sprue plastic that I'm going to try on the wires to see how well things work.
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Them look sweet Tom only thought I had was how do you screw the plastic without get stuck by the hook.
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Them look sweet Tom only thought I had was how do you screw the plastic without get stuck by the hook.
I'm kinda glad you asked. ;)
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The OP has a picture showing another jig that these look just like. Kyle posted what looked to be a way to get that jig by casting one's own. I just did the mod to get to that point to show that making the jigs could be done. I haven't had time to actually thread a bait yet, but I will.
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I tried some actual baits instead of cheating with a section of sprue.
(https://i.imgur.com/61BGch0.jpg)
The 2 1/2" fry bait screwed right on but the tail section had to be swung under the hook several times to get it fully mounted. This was the 1/16 ounce.
The 3/32 ouncer got the 2 1/2" Fat Fry. I think the sloped front gave me problems in getting the bait aligned to start it squarely. I'm sure a bait with a more blunt front end, maybe like the Ned or a worm or some other rounder bodied bait, would allow the alignment to fit better.
The two baits shown rigged would work on either head size. And On that note I did try a 1/32 ounce conversion to use this system but the head volume was not sufficient to hold the spring's leg and in fact the spring's diameter was the same size as the head of the jig, so that size was scrapped.
One thing I will say about the spring keeper. If you get the bait on to your liking it don't think Hercules could cast it off. The Fat Fry was the second one I used to get the picture and getting the first one off rendered it junk. The down side is that for baits like the 1.5" Thump-It or baits with deep ribs and a smaller core this isn't very practical.
Like this thread has shown, the interest was there and Kyle sort of steered the thought process. It was a challenge and I know now that it can be done in these two smaller sized heads. I may make up some of each size but more than likely I'll dig in the old mold box and ferret out a 1/8 - 1/4 mold that makes collarless heads and fit these springs to those heads for some walleye goodies. Like I said, a guy can't hardly imagine casting a plastic off one of the spring keepers.
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I need to work on my mold modifying but I got it done. This is a 3" slab slayer and it won't come off and it won't slide down. I think its gonna work out very well.
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How about a picture of the mold Modified and a picture of the jig with the Screw Lock with out the bait... There is a guy that makes the 1/32 and 1/16 oz jigs for sale on crappie.com they're call 4x4 jigs... But there not Cheap... He also has a website... But I won't link it he don't pay this site for advertisement...
But he did use a Do-It Mold...
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GLG...go ahead and post the head he makes. This site is about tackle crafting, not $$.
When I worked with the mold to get the spring to work I also checked the viability of converting a 1/32 head at the same time. All I saw was a headache at that size so it wasn't attempted. The hook size conflicted with the spring and then the anchoring end of the spring would have a real tough time finding enough lead to hold yet still provide a clean head. I didn't try pinching down the hook that goes into the head itself. Lastly the spring would be far larger than most crappie baits will handle without issues unless the baits are getting into the 2 1/2" to 3" range. I'd be curious to see what was done so post it without worry.