Custom Baits - Forum
Jigs, Spinnerbaits and Sinkers => Painting and Finishing Lures => Topic started by: Fishermanbt on 01/02/20 18:01 UTC
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I got the itch to try out my hand at making/painting some crank baits and decided I wanted to make a lure turner to dry the top coat. After doing some research on different finishes and picking apart different turner builds on YouTube I decided I wanted a hybrid model. That is, one I could dry regular two part epoxy or CS Seal Coat or UV resin. All the while keep dust and debris from getting on the baits. I stumbled upon the YouTube channel Engineered Angler and I must say this guy is fantastic. I borrowed from his setup.
https://youtu.be/lOQOejfM3Vk
I harvested the turner motor from a junk microwave, purchased and dissected a uv nail lamp, purchased a cardboard 12” dia concrete form tube, some foil tape used for duct work joints, and 3D printed some light brackets and the adapter to the motor shaft.
I still need to come up with a decent way to hold the baits where I can paint, top coat and put in the dryer without touching them. I printed the orange cylinder with alligator clips so I can uv top coat jig heads and spinner baits.
I was going to wait until I had everything buttoned down before I posted but I just couldn’t wait so here it is.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200103/242dd66a120dab2ead51f6786633fe9b.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200103/ea8602f2e2b65f009e1a7fa38112646c.jpg)
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That's pretty advanced there big guy. Nice work
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Thanks! Kinda like me, ugly but with a purposeful functionality.
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That's pretty slick. Right now I can't see my work bench....sausage making time and today I boned out and cubed about 120 pounds of pork butt to mix with venison for ring bologna and venison polish sausage and to make pork brats and breakfast sausage.
That concrete tube idea really is neat. Keep us in the loop as to how well it works.
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This past weekend I added some new home brew contraptions.
First I concocted a vacuum form box that I hooked my shop vac up to. The trial run was okay but I have since changed the top with the holes in it. Considering the plastic I was using to heat up was way to thick (salvaged it from from some Christmas gift boxes) I think it stands a chance once I get some proper sheets.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200107/8db1e133e435394a9a02e106da0e2ed0.jpg)
Then I finished my airbrush booth. Mounted a range hood fan I salvaged a while back and added a light and scrap corrugated white plastic I had tucked away from one of the kid’s school projects
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200107/e55fe2d908a0e6b0f14b49969a4fef42.jpg)
And these guys showed up today
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200107/3b1440ba9d60a8594369cbc1079bf7f1.jpg)
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Got all that you need to get them done. Can’t wait the see the colors that you like.
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I'm still using the paint box I made a couple years ago using a cardboard box. lol Got enough over-spray on the interior to stand all on its own. I have a good paint box on the list for this year though and hopefully can get it finished. I like the idea of the fan an filter.
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Lol. I have the trusty cardboard box reinforced with packaging tape under the work bench. Been using it for spraying powder paint though so I can try and salvage the over spray. But it worked well for what airbrush work I was doing before that.
Gotta say it’s been fun putting these things together. Tearing things apart and repurposing this and that based on seeing working models and customizing them from my own ideas and sketches. Heck, I even made myself learn how to soldier. Mistakes were made but the education of those mistakes has been priceless.
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Update. I have been testing out my el cheap o airbrush with the above “custom” made contraptions. I grew frustrated with constant clogging so I have a better airbrush on the way.
I tried out 3 different top coats too. They were uv resin, Devcon 2 part epoxy and CS top coat. Gotta say I’m a fan of the uv stuff. Here’s what I have thus far.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200113/734b67e0e8390c3f72cc063a29a3c9e6.jpg)
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Nice work! I like. You do know that the CS sealcoat comes in a UV enhanced formula?
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Thanks. They have a uv cure coating? I thought that was just a uv enhanced dip and drip coating. The uv resin I’m using is workable until exposed to uv light or the sun. Pretty neat to use and a tough finish too.
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That looks great.
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The CS product is a dip/drip product. Which of the lures are finished with the uv resin?
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The purple/chartreuse received 2 dips is CS, the brown/yellow top right got 1 coat Devcon, and the rest got 2 coats of uv cure resin.
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Can you share a link to obtain the uv resin?
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Wow, if that's with an elcheapo brush I can't wait to see your professional work. Outstanding!
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Can you share a link to obtain the uv resin?
I ordered mine on eBay. You just have to dig around for the cheapest price.
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F273456788436
Amazon carries it as well
Epoxy UV Resin Clear Hard,ONGHSD UV Jewelry Resin Glue Sunlight Ultraviolet Curing Resin Crystal Liquid for DIY/Kids Craft Jewelry Making Supplies Mold Not Included (100g/3.53oz) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RJ9SSSN/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_EbzhEbQMRVH8M
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So what sets the resin? Special light or just need strong sunlight? Are you dipping or brushing?
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UV light sets it. I’m using UV lights from a fingernail curing lamp in my rotisserie. Takes about 15 minutes and the bait is tack free but I have been going for about an hour. Im going to test out cure times for durability.
It has the consistency of syrup at room temperature or a bit thicker than CS. I’ve read that it’s possible to make it thinner by placing the bottle in a container of warm water thus warming the resin. As far as applications go I have been brushing it on but one could dip/drip I suppose. As long as there is no direct sunlight you have infinite work time.
I haven’t had enough hands on to see how it’s going to hold up or if it yellows over time. For now though it is crystal clear.
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If you dip that stuff on do you dip the lip as well or do you tape the lip off? I know some people that use KBS and dip the entire bait including the lip but I've never dipped a crank. I have only finished cranks with Devcon 2 Ton as it is really strong and it covers well with 1 coat.
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I did not dip the entire bait. Just covered from tail to nose dipping it in CS. I would think covering the lip might throw the balance off.
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I did not dip the entire bait. Just covered from tail to nose dipping it in CS. I would think covering the lip might throw the balance off.
So what do you do, tape the lip off? And if you tape the lip off, how hard is it to remove after the clear coat is cured? Forgive me for the basic questions, I thought about getting back into airbrushing cranks but I'd like to find a better way of clear coating. BTW, the light box and vacuum former are awesome, I which I had enough skill to build something like that!!
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So what do you do, tape the lip off? And if you tape the lip off, how hard is it to remove after the clear coat is cured? Forgive me for the basic questions, I thought about getting back into airbrushing cranks but I'd like to find a better way of clear coating. BTW, the light box and vacuum former are awesome, I which I had enough skill to build something like that!!
I just held the bait by the lip with tape removed and dipped into the jar just above the nose, slowly removing it and allowing to dry. Could have painted it on but chose to dip it this time
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I just held the bait by the lip with tape removed and dipped into the jar just above the nose, slowly removing it and allowing to dry. Could have painted it on but chose to dip it this time
Maybe I'm looking at this wrong but if you do that, isn't part of the lip getting clear coated? If not then the nose of the bait isn't getting clear coated? That is where I'm having trouble, it seems you either dip the entire bait with the lip included or dip the bait and clear coat at least part of the lip. Perhaps I should just stick with the brush on deal and not worry about dipping.
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"Maybe I'm looking at this wrong but if you do that, isn't part of the lip getting clear coated? If not then the nose of the bait isn't getting clear coated?" smalljaw
I tape the blades on all of my crank bait blanks as soon as I get them. when I dip, I dip far enough to cover the entire painted portion of each bait. then hang to drip by the lie tie eye. The tape peels right off when dry without harming the top coat.
I tried brushing but found when using too stiff of a brush that I could actually scratch the paint even after it had been heat set. I went to a super soft brush and that cured that but I have since found that dip and drip works well for me. IF I were using the Diamond coat or an epoxy and probably that uv too, I'd need a turner. I double coat all of my cranks in the CS product and find that the finish is super tough and eliminates the need for a turner.
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Maybe I'm looking at this wrong but if you do that, isn't part of the lip getting clear coated? If not then the nose of the bait isn't getting clear coated? That is where I'm having trouble, it seems you either dip the entire bait with the lip included or dip the bait and clear coat at least part of the lip. Perhaps I should just stick with the brush on deal and not worry about dipping.
No, the CS top coat did not cover the entire lip just a small portion of it above the nose if dipped in the orientation shown in the attached picture which shouldn’t be enough to effect the action. I am not the best at explaining things. I tried to get a picture of the coating on the lip for reference.
Ctom is right though. If you’re dipping then you do not need to mess with a turner.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200115/b6d9417d3146fc9ae4779319e7f86446.jpg)