Custom Baits - Forum
General => General Discussion => Topic started by: ctom on 02/27/25 10:41 UTC
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So many of them come with the concept guides, especially spinning rods, that I think seriously I'll just go back to building my own. Scheels had a couple of really decent store branded panfish rods, both 7 foot one piece, rated at 1/16-1/4 and 2-to-6-pound line, maybe 4-8. Both are loaded with those tiny-holed concept guides. I bought one of the rods then came home and ordered decent guides and a tip top from Mudhole to replace them. I spend roughly 70% of my time casting jigs with slip floats for crappies and trying to get the bobber knots thru those dinky guides is a frustrating adventure. Then if it's pretty cold, those little suckers ice up on about every cast.
I've done this same thing with two St. Croix Panfish series rods and they now cast great.
For the life of me, I don't know why that concept guide concept has become the gold standard for guides. I think they're the worst thing to deal with since the first monofilaments came out. Then to put tip tops on the rods with the holes smaller than a BB is just down right stupid. I guess the designers for rods can be talked into anything.
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Boy, I agree with you 100%! If you like using braid with a floro leader, it can be a pain trying to get a small connection knot that won't hit the guide on each cast. I now use straight fluorocarbon on most of my spin reels.
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I considered straight fluoro on my mono rods, but the stuff sinks, and I never know when I may need to switch to a float which makes doing so with fluor a giant pain the backside. I tie directly to my braid, jig or, say, Rippin Rapa.
For braid in warmer weather/open water I use Suffix 6 pound with a 2 pound diameter, in white which seems to disappear in the water. Later on in the late fall when I fish marina and harbor dock pilings I use a couple dedicated rods spooled with 3 pound Clam Frost braid in the white. I've never seen the need for a fluoro leader so the knots there don't become an issue for me but those bobber stop knots are a super pain. All types of stops with the tiny eyes are a pain and some just don't work at all.
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I considered straight fluoro on my mono rods, but the stuff sinks, and I never know when I may need to switch to a float which makes doing so with fluor a giant pain the backside. I tie directly to my braid, jig or, say, Rippin Rapa.
For braid in warmer weather/open water I use Suffix 6 pound with a 2 pound diameter, in white which seems to disappear in the water. Later on in the late fall when I fish marina and harbor dock pilings I use a couple dedicated rods spooled with 3 pound Clam Frost braid in the white. I've never seen the need for a fluoro leader so the knots there don't become an issue for me but those bobber stop knots are a super pain. All types of stops with the tiny eyes are a pain and some just don't work at all.
I use 15# Power Pro yellow braid and tie 10ft. 8# fluorocarbon leader using G Knot on my spinning rods. I use to just use straight fluorocarbon but what I have found is as I've gotten older is that it is so hard to see. Todays lakes are so pressured that many times they bite so lite if you can't see your line then you'll miss him.
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Same for me Lamar. Use yellow main line with clear leader. I don't have the vision I once had either.
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Having similar guide issues, mostly with the tip on my spinning rods
So through trial an error, what would be the most recommended tip for these lines
Bill
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For my panfish/trout rod I’ve used the 8’ B&M Ultimate for years. It has a stiffer backbone than some other crappie rods I’ve had, but great sensitivity. With 6# Vicious panfish mono in yellow the outfit has been tested on a few musky and some decent bass and walleye while jigging for panfish. To top it off, it has regular guides on it. For trout I step down to 4# line and I can accurately place tiny jigs or live bait at a good distance then high stick float the bait through the hole with ease.
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Having similar guide issues, mostly with the tip on my spinning rods
So through trial an error, what would be the most recommended tip for these lines
Bill
The rod has 8 guides. A 25, a 16, then a 12 then runs the dinky stuff to the tip. I'm doing a 10, then 8, then a three run series of number 6 guides and a number 6 tip. I did this with two of the St. Croix 7 foot Panfish Specials and it made the rods about 300% better. Even in freezing weather the guides stay open and cast far, far better than those micro suckers.
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The rod has 8 guides. A 25, a 16, then a 12 then runs the dinky stuff to the tip. I'm doing a 10, then 8, then a three run series of number 6 guides and a number 6 tip. I did this with two of the St. Croix 7 foot Panfish Specials and it made the rods about 300% better. Even in freezing weather the guides stay open and cast far, far better than those micro suckers.
Thanks ctom
appreciate the input, as I also have a few St Croix 6' - 7' rods and others
understanding where the issue exists, might just follow up on your fix
Bill
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The new rod has been resurrected: guides run from 16 to 12 to 10 to 10 to 8 to 6 to 6 to 6 to 6 tip top.... not 16 to 12 to 10 to 8 to 3 to 3 to 3 to 3 and finally a 3 tip top.
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The new rods has been resurrected: guides run from 16 to 12 to 10 to 10 to 8 to 6 to 6 to 6 to 6 tip top.... not 16 to 12 to 10 to 8 to 3 to 3 to 3 to 3 and finally a 3 tip top.
I did that too. Fixed three of my rods that had bad guides. Replacing a St Croix rod is close to 200 bucks anymore.
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St. Croix and Loomis are great rods, but the pricing tends to keep me from even looking at them anymore. I've been replacing those pricy suckers with Scheels branded rods and find that they are every bit as much as their pricy counterparts and the warranty is one heck of a lot better.
I've been trying to replace or retire one rod combo a year and this one is a dandy rod paired up with a Shimano Sahara 1000 reel. The only thing I did not like was those dink guides. It took about 20 minutes to remove and replace those guides and tip with 5 high-frame guides to match the first three guides on the rod. Looks great. I'm happy. Now if we can shake this blizzard.
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I actually looked for a couple 7' two piece rods but the prices are nuts!! I'll stick with all the rods I've got now!!
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I was getting into rod building a few years ago & bought a kit with everything from get bit. I still have it all in the garage. lol
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I build my own stuff. Have all the tools to do it including a rod lathe. Frankly, you’re not saving any money building one yourself. You’re just getting a better rod for the same money you would purchase one for.
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I build my own stuff. Have all the tools to do it including a rod lathe. Frankly, you’re not saving any money building one yourself. You’re just getting a better rod for the same money you would purchase one for.
Honestly AP, I agree 100% with you as far as getting a better rod. Where I run into conflict with, say, St. Croix and Loomis is with the way they do warranty work today. Rainshadow has been a warranty nightmare. Instead of messing with these companies anymore, I find it easier to buy a rod from Scheels in the Scheels branded line-up where if anything happens inside of three years I can walk in the door with a broken rod and walk out with a new one without spending a nickel.
I wrapped rods for years using St. Croix blanks and still fish a few of them to this day. I've done a couple for myself in the last three or four years that are pet rods as I get more focused on need or specific use.. The old eyes are making it tough to wrap though unless I'm doing so in bright sunlight. My issue with today's rods is that every rod company seems to think that the micro guides are the cat's meow, when in fact they're a pain and do noting to enhance casting.