Custom Baits - Forum
General => General Discussion => Topic started by: kipbass on 07/20/12 18:59 UTC
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Been watching wired2fish on youtube, I want to learn how to make my own jigs, The guy hosting is named Jason. Hmmm Is it the same guy here? I think I read somewhere that J makes his own jigs...Help a brother out with some tips! ;D
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I've been known to do a few back in the day . First thing is don't get caught up in the hype of fancy tools and vises , whip finishers and all that rot . Choose the jig you use the most and remember you are jig tying not fly tying so you don't need a kit . You will need a vise , a couple bobbins , thread , chenille , Pair of very sharp scissors (Fiskars brand will work) , jig heads , Paint (dollar store nail polish will work fine it's mostly a laquer paint anyway. Get some clear for the last coat. ) and lastly your choice of material . I'd start with marabou . Now where do you get this stuff . Crazy Angler After that you will be ready for lessons .
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I think we're talking about 2 different jigs, but what do I know. LOL...Seriously, I want to make football head jigs and maybe a few others down the road.
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Kipbass
Check out www.fishboss.com has everything you need to make football jigs plus video instruction by Cliff Pace I think.
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I think we're talking about 2 different jigs, but what do I know. LOL...Seriously, I want to make football head jigs and maybe a few others down the road.
Sure nuf , brain melt on my part . Since I don't use flipping jigs it never entered my mind even though I have molds for that kind of stuff . Eat up with the D.A. last night must have breathed to much paint and plastic .
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Sure nuf , brain melt on my part . Since I don't use flipping jigs it never entered my mind even though I have molds for that kind of stuff . Eat up with the D.A. last night must have breathed to much paint and plastic .
Aww well, don't sweat the small stuff. After all, you were trying to help. ;D
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One tip when pouring jig heads, get the cleanest lead you can find. Depending on the size you want to pour they can be a real pain if using wheel weights or anything with tin or bismuth in them.
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One tip when pouring jig heads, get the cleanest lead you can find. Depending on the size you want to pour they can be a real pain if using wheel weights or anything with tin or bismuth in them.
Even if you use wax and make the junk float to the top?
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Oh yea . the softer the lead the better . No matter what you put in hard lead like wheel weights it won't help make it softer . Unless you just add soft lead to cut the percentage of hard until you can get good casts . Molds with elongated collars and barbs and such can be a pure pain in the neck going much farther down the spine . If you have fiber weed guards get some nylon pins for keeping your pin holes open for casting . Then afterwards remove them epoxy in the guards . Saves a little time and headaches. Most times you can reuse them.
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Fluxing them removes impurities but won't make impure lead pour better. Oxidation and other junk are removed but the other low melt point metals remain as well as denser particles. The other metals, tin, bismuth and others will cool faster than the lead and clog fine points in any pour. The only thing I ever use wheel weights for is large sinkers and pencil lead.
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Thanks all, good to know
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One tip when pouring jig heads, get the cleanest lead you can find. Depending on the size you want to pour they can be a real pain if using wheel weights or anything with tin or bismuth in them.
Interesting factoid for the day... Did you know if you mix lead, tin and bismuth you create an alloy with a significantly lower melting point, ~250 degrees. Don't ask me how I know... Something about baking my powder coat and just hooks hanging there :o
Jason
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So I'm looking at Barlow's, only site I'm familiar with for now. Should I buy pre-made skirts or skirt layers? So many choices of skirt layers, I'm confused. ???
If I go the layer route; how many layers to make a full skirt? When I called Barlow's, the guy said it was cheaper buying pre-made. Do I want regular bands or umbrella bands?
I have heard of something called a living skirt by a name brand company and a mop jig, that's what I want to create.
On the jig head, what's the norm as far as the eye, flat or standard? Does it make a difference?
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So I'm looking at Barlow's, only site I'm familiar with for now. Should I buy pre-made skirts or skirt layers? So many choices of skirt layers, I'm confused. ???
If I go the layer route; how many layers to make a full skirt? When I called Barlow's, the guy said it was cheaper buying pre-made. Do I want regular bands or umbrella bands?
I have heard of something called a living skirt by a name brand company and a mop jig, that's what I want to create.
On the jig head, what's the norm as far as the eye, flat or standard? Does it make a difference?
OK, I'll chime in with two cents here:
-Skirts/Bands: If you buy pre-made skirts you won't be able to get your own unique colors, but they are pre done so you will save a little time. I love putting together my own skirts with tabs and coming up with those custom colors you can't really get anywhere else. If you want your skirts to stay flared all the time, use umbrella bands (more expensive). If you want the action to pulsate all the way in and out, use flat bands. I prefer the flat bands because sometimes that profile such as on a swim jig, will mimic gill action on a bait fish. Some folks use wire to tie their skirts, but I don't like wire because it tends to cut through the band relatively quickly.
-Living Image skirts: pro: SWEET patterns. con: .56 cents PER tab. I use 3 tabs on my jigs so you can see the math there.
-Line ties: I prefer a 90 degree flat eye on a stand up jig or anything I want on the bottom with a trailer. On a swim jig if you are just chucking and winding, my opinion is it is user preference...
-where to buy: I won't even try and name all the sources, but there are MANY. Start with ebay and you will find your colors no matter what species you are after.
-Overall: are you selling these jigs or using for personal use only? That is going to be the main question regarding how you are going to want to proceed...
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I buy my skirts from: http://www.fishingskirts.com/ (http://www.fishingskirts.com/)
They also have the Boss series if you are cramped on time.
Everything is top notch and most the skirts you buy other places come from here.
I know the owner, it's a family business, and their service is first class all the way.
Jason
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I buy my skirts from: http://www.fishingskirts.com/ (http://www.fishingskirts.com/)
X2.
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I bought one of these skirt kits from bass pro. Comes with alot of tabs for you to start with plus the tool.
http://m.basspro.com/DoIt-Jig-Skirt-Kit/product/10212541/143346
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Hey Kip,
I thought I'd jump in on this. I've been pouring/painting/tying my own jigs for a long time and I'd like to share some of the things I've learned ...all too often the hard way. (Lest I forget, Jason's story of the bare hooks cracked me up.)
MOLDS: Do-It Molds is pretty much the main maker of molds and they have a good website. You can buy directly from them, but you'll probably get better prices at Barlow's, etc. They make a little over a million different molds so make sure you get the right sizes, and the right jig head...football, arkie, shakey head, Erie, etc. Each mold is going to cost $30 - $50.
LEAD: Forget the tire weights and only use soft lead. You can tell if it's soft lead by running your thumbnail across the lead. If you leave a trail...lt's soft.
HOOKS: There are many good hooks on the market. Personally, I use the black Mustad Ultra Point hook for most of my jigs. It's a good hook, it's sharp, it's strong and it's affordable. Owner also makes a good hook.
PAINT: You've got to paint your jig head and, to me, that means powder coat. Powder paint comes in many different colors. I use a paint stripping gun to heat the jig head, a pair of hemostats to hold the hook, a fluid bed to hold the paint (it suspends the powder and avoids clumping) and a cup of water to dip the hot jig head into. WAIT... THERE'S MORE. At this point the paint is very soft and must be hardened by baking it in a small tabletop oven. Hang the hooks on the grill or use a nifty holder sold by TJ'S Tackle...350 degrees for about 20 minutes and walaa. Make sure the eyes are open before you bake them.
SKIRTS: The easiest material to use is silicone strands which come in a myriad of different colors and patterns. They are attached to the hook using a rubber collar. (Many complain that over time the collar is going to rot which will ruin the skirt.)
Personally, I prefer to use round rubber for my skirts. To me, the rubber skirt pulsates more than the silicone and gives your jig a more lifelike appearance. The rubber comes in different diameters and different colors and you can do some cool things with it. One of my favourite colors is a black/brown skirt on a weedless 3/8 oz. brown w/ black sprinkles football head with a few strands of purple silicone and a couple thin strands of ultraviolet angel hair extending a couple inches beyond the skirt. Follow that up with your craw trailer of choice and you're good to go. You're not going to find that on a shelf unless you make it yourself.
RUBBER COLLAR, WIRE, OR THREAD: As stated, you run a substantial risk of the rubber collar braking over time. I use wire. Put the hook in the fly tying vise and place the rubber over the hook shank. Use about 4" of 26 or 28 guage wire under the hook shank. Hold one end of the wire with your left hand and with your right hand take two wraps around the rubber and the hook shank. Twist the wire together and use a needlenose pliers to twist tight.
I will also use Flymaster Plus fly tying thread whenever I'm making a hair jig (great for smallmouth). The thread will "dig in" to the hair when wire won't.
VISE: Try to use a good fly tying vise when tying your jigs. I use a Dyna King Baracuda.
As always, sorry about being longwinded.
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Very nice summary from Denny.
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As another juy who's made jigs a long time I can tell you Denny hit the nail on the head. Of course once you start making jigs; spinnerbaits and chatterbaits will come next. Your already pouring plastics and some day you'll buy a airbrush and start repainting crankbaits, then you'll want to make your own plugs from scratch. See how this hobby grows? (Sorry to get off the main point) :o :o :o
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Jason Sir, we can hardly wait 'til the Venerable CCM starts offering Their Molds for pouring Lead Jigs and Jigheads to go with all this Soft Plastic! I, for one, have several bangin' ideas for some High Precision Jigheads. "Scallop", number 1. Then a solid, more standard Jighead for us Salt Boys... I told You CCM was gettin' Salty! lol
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Thanks Mr Denny. I always enjoy reading your post. I bet you're a hoot to hang out with too! 8)
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Update. I listened to my father in law which is usually a good thing. I used wheel weights instead of soft lead. I think I need to pre-heat the mold. Some of the lead didn't get down fully past the head; some did. Is there a way to clean off the lead from the hooks and reuse them? I hate wasting money. Did try painting one of the good ones. I think I need the fluid bed Mr.Denny spoke of. Any links to the site that sells the fluid bed is appreciated along with someone who sells the right pliers for cutting the sprues.
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You can build your own fluid bed. I have not yet. But I have read some on it. Search the net for plans.
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Kip,
You will need to use either soft lead or at the very least, a mix of soft lead and hard lead. Wheel weights won't work for intricate heads (won't fill past the head a lot of times). Yes, you can stick the head back in the pot and tap the side, 90% will come off. What is left can be cleaned off with a knife after it cools. If pouring weedless jigs, I would highly recommend that you use either the teflon or aluminum pins. If you mold the weedguard in, you will fight every jig you make to paint them, keep the guard from melting and or filling the guard with paint. They are easily glued in later with D2T. With the teflon pins, you can paint paint the head without removing the pin. If using the aluminum, I cut dowel and use them in the open hole to keep paint out of it.
Tim
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Make sure to remove the dowel before curing.
Tim
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I'd probably start with Barlow's for supplies simply because they have most of what you'll need / use. A good "gate" clipper is needed to cut the sprue...about $10. You can also use needle nose pliers...twist back and forth a few times. I also have some rough sandpaper around to "sand" the sharp edges of the sprue.
Lay your molds, opened, out in the hot sun for a while before you pour your lead, or use a heat gun. You can also lay your mold over the lead pot for a little bit. Hot lead and cold molds don't work well together.
Use needle nose pliers to dip the eye of the hook into the hot lead to get the hardened lead off your hook. Chances are that hook will become yours to fish with, but it's still a good hook.
Hope this helps.
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For cutting lead sprues, I use Flush-Cut Nippers. They're made for soft metals (lead) and other soft materials...do not cut harder metals with these. The wheel weights are lead, but they're hard lead, with Zinc, Tin, and/or Antimony mixed in to make them harder so they can withstand their intended environment. Hard lead doesn't flow as freely as soft lead, so it can have issues with small details, such as Barb Collars or further down on the "shaft" of the Collar. You can flux Your lead mix to remove impurities, as impurities and small bits of trash can also ruin many'a pour. I flux with the cheap Emergency Candles, just remove the foil cup and the wick. Do a Yahoo or Google search on "Fluxing Lead" or "How to Flux Lead". As far as saving the hook from an incomplete pour, it can be done, but it can be tedious.
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Kip, if You're wanting plans to build Your own Fluid Bed for Powder Paint, I bought mine (plans) off of eBay. The guy sells the PDF for about $5, he emails it to You. For a little time on Your part, You can build one for much cheaper than You can buy one.
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Also, me personally, I warm my molds by pouring my melted lead into whatever cavities I'll be using, several times, before I put any hardware in the mold.
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Thanks all. I did see the video about preheating the mold on top of the pot prior to pouring; I forgot to do it. :(
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Jig making....been doing this a long time. I made my first jigs in 1965 using an oak mold.
I'll add to this.
Bareknuckle has the right idea for pre-heating aluminum jig molds. I fill all of the cavities, going to be used or not, and let the lead sit in the mold about 20 seconds before popping the castings out. Depending on the size of the jig I may do this ten times or so and this depends on the air temp. On 1/32 heads in January I bring the mold in the house for a day before pre-heating and that mold will get filled at least ten times to warm it and that includes filling the larger heating chambe under the jig cavities. Get the mold hot. If you can't hold the aluminum with a bare hand, then its hot enough.
Wheel weights have a ton of tin and antinomy in them and can be darned hard to cast with especially in the very small jigs. I'd avoid using that metal source for jigs under 1/8. The absolute best lead in the world for casting jigs comes in 1/8" 4X8 foot sheets used in the walls of medical x-ray facilities. Living with the Mayo Clinic and two of its affliated hospitals only blocks away is a bonus for me when they do u-grades to these rooms. Having friends in the construction trades that does the work is the frosting. I'll come home occasionally to find five or six pieces of rolled lead weighing up to 100 pounds laying in front of the garage door. I melt it into two pound ingots for use. Plumber's lead is yet another source of pure lead. Pure lead is easier on the heating elements in your electric hot pots too and for trimming sprues the pure lead can be snapped off, no cutting needed. Snapped sprues leave little evidence while cut sprues always leave a sharp cut edge.
I went to a Hobby Lobby and picked up a couple different sizes of bead pliers. These are used to hold beads while making jewelry and the two sizes I picked up hold jigheads from 1/64 to 1/16 using the smaller plier and up to 1/4 heads in the other. They grasp the head and hold it firmly without denting or mis-shaping the heads while the sprues get snapped off. I make some flathead jigs up to 3/4 ounce and they require no tools at all to trim sprues as long as pure lead is used.
By holding the hook end in a needle-nosed pliers you can slip the lead end just into the hot lead of the pot to get a bad casting off the hook. Don't bank on doing this too many times with the same hook as the temper in the fine wire will change in a hurry. And regarding hooks, buy quality hooks that YOU are satifisfied with. All of the Mustads have done me well over the many years. VMC's, Matzuos, Gamis, and some of the Ditachi's are great hooks to work with as well. The bottom line on the hooks is that if you have trust and faith in them, the whole of what you are doing with casting and all will reflect that. I stay away from Eagle Claws. The gold hooks are brittle in my opinion and the bronzed ones have too much laquer on them. When they get cast the laquer shrinks away from the lead leaving a loose casting on the hook.
I'm going to offer a couple suggestions from an ice angler here since we are talking jigs. Instead of dumping a dozen of one color of a jig and size into an open tray, pick up some jig boxes that allow the jigs to be clipped into place so the can't fall out or rattle around. This is how I manage my small jigs and they stay nice and clean and ready for use without having to untangle 200 jigs to get one. Boxes for jigs to be kept in the fashion just mentioned do well with small jigs but larger ones are harder to deal with. For jigs 1/8 and up I line the bottoms of the compartments holding jigs with 1/4" foam bought at a fabric store. I cover the jigs in those compartments with another pice of foam that is 1/2" thick. When I close the box cover the foam holds those jigs in a rattle-free world. The paint and hooks stay protected this way and will provide you with a lot more service. Nothing is more disgusting than opening a box of jigs and seeing paint chips, rust, curled hook points.....you take care of them, they'll take care of you.
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Well I rested the mold on the pot and tried to pour in some lead into empty cavities but it fell through the bottom. I still got bad results casting. So now I need to find a supplier for pure lead. There's a few on Ebay for cheap. I'll check locally first.
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Awesome Mr. Tom! That Icing is mighty sweet! One of my main sources for Soft Lead is the Pistol Range at the local Shooting Range. A 5 gallon bucket and a little time while noone is there shooting will yield quite a few pounds of good lead, You just have to do a bit of cleaning the melt, and getting the Copper Bullet Jackets out is not bad...I use a stainless Pasta Spoon for removing Jackets from the lead melt. And remember, Water and Molten Lead DO NOT MIX. Even a drop of sweat into Your hot lead pot will be Splatteringly Explosive...BACK UP...QUICKLY!
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X2 and X3 re Ctom and Gary. Lots of good stuff there.
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Thank You, Mr. Denny Sir! One thing I didn't add (because Water and Lead don't mix) is that when I get Bullets from the Pistol Range (outdoor range, of course), the Bullets are covered and sometimes filled with Dirt. I rinse them in the bucket, with much agitation, rinse/agitate again, then pick all the bullets out, rinse the mud out of the bucket, then another rinse or two. Then I'll set them where they can dry for days or weeks before I "store" them...keep them dry! Another good thing with the Bullets is the Lead in them is almost always Soft and Pure (unless the maker used hard/harder lead in them for other purposes). Why? Because pure lead is used for 1, weight...pure lead is heavier than hard lead. 2, expansion....soft lead expands easier...it's also cheaper than hard lead (believe it or not) because Tin, Zinc and Antimony is much more expensive than Lead. If You find Pure Lead more expensive, it's probably a "demand/popularity" issue...unless You're getting free or near-free lead. Scrap Yards can also be a source for lead. If dealing with Scrap Yards, always check the hardness.
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Kip....
I've read the whole thread and can't see where you have identified the mold type....what is the head shape. I know you wanted to do football heads. If you are casting footballs you'll see a run of lead out of the hook grooves below the head cavity. There's an awaful lot of lead in there to fill the hole and it will hang onto het pretty well so I don't think you are doing anything wrong there. Try cutting off some old jighooks leaving enough of the shank to fit into the grooves, close the mold and try filling again. With a stub in there it should hold lead.
Are you dropping lead thru a nozzle on the bottom of a hot pot or are you ladling lead into the cavities? If you are shooting out the bottom of a hot pot, try a ladle on a few.....or vice versa. Sometimes how you get the lead into a mold makes all the difference in the world with regard to the finished product.
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I can't remember if I told this story or not so I'll do it again. I picked up a lot of scrap lead from the recycling center. It was clean on one side, but had a heavy paper glued on the other. I tried to scrape the paper off and then tried to burn it off with a torch, but nothing seemed to work. I finally cut the lead into manageable pieces and began melting it down into ingots. The paper burned off, but there was smoke and flame. I try to do this kind of stuff early in the morning. My neighbor, Julie, looks down at my place and can see right into the shop. She sees smoke and fire and me in gloves and a face mask. She sends her husband, Tony, down to see what's going on. I asked Tony if he had seen Rosemary, my wife, lately. Tony says, "No". I tell him that Rosemary and I had an argument that got out of control and that I was, well, "cleaning up the mess" and that Rosemary wouldn't be around anymore. I told him not to tell anyone. Tony raised his eyebrows and walks up the hill to his place and tells Julie. Rosemary drove away an hour later to go to work. I got a call a minute later from Julie...I learned a few new words and was told to do things you can't do to yourself.
Never a dull moment.
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Kip....
I've read the whole thread and can't see where you have identified the mold type....what is the head shape. I know you wanted to do football heads. If you are casting footballs you'll see a run of lead out of the hook grooves below the head cavity. There's an awaful lot of lead in there to fill the hole and it will hang onto het pretty well so I don't think you are doing anything wrong there. Try cutting off some old jighooks leaving enough of the shank to fit into the grooves, close the mold and try filling again. With a stub in there it should hold lead.
Are you dropping lead thru a nozzle on the bottom of a hot pot or are you ladling lead into the cavities? If you are shooting out the bottom of a hot pot, try a ladle on a few.....or vice versa. Sometimes how you get the lead into a mold makes all the difference in the world with regard to the finished product.
When I get home I'll post the mold model. It is a Do-it Weedless football jig mold. 3/4oz to 1 1/2oz model, 3 cavities. When I stated I was pouring in lead and it cam out the bottom, nothing was inside the mold. Just trying to heat it up. I wonder if a heat gun would do for heating the mold?
I did order some soft lead off ebay 10# for $20. I found another source, but they require $50 minimum order, it breaks down to $1.60 per pound plus freight cost. If anyone is interested it's www.abmlead.com. I do know it's 99.9% pure lead and comes in 2-3# ingots.
Ha Ha Mr Denny! You are so wrong, I only threatened to divorce mine if she got any heavier than 156lbs. :o
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I can't remember if I told this story or not so I'll do it again. I picked up a lot of scrap lead from the recycling center. It was clean on one side, but had a heavy paper glued on the other. I tried to scrape the paper off and then tried to burn it off with a torch, but nothing seemed to work. I finally cut the lead into manageable pieces and began melting it down into ingots. The paper burned off, but there was smoke and flame. I try to do this kind of stuff early in the morning. My neighbor, Julie, looks down at my place and can see right into the shop. She sees smoke and fire and me in gloves and a face mask. She sends her husband, Tony, down to see what's going on. I asked Tony if he had seen Rosemary, my wife, lately. Tony says, "No". I tell him that Rosemary and I had an argument that got out of control and that I was, well, "cleaning up the mess" and that Rosemary wouldn't be around anymore. I told him not to tell anyone. Tony raised his eyebrows and walks up the hill to his place and tells Julie. Rosemary drove away an hour later to go to work. I got a call a minute later from Julie...I learned a few new words and was told to do things you can't do to yourself.
Never a dull moment.
This is how one gets hinself in trouble. lol
We have parkland behind our house. I sat on the steps at the side of the driveway looking out over the park while I was cleaning up one of my .50 cal blackpowder rifles. Its scoped and looks pretty ...big. So along comes a couple of prim appearing seeties about 65 years old for a sunny stroll and of course they catch sight of me cleaning said rifle. One of them , very pointedly, asks me what I was doing and I told her I was helping to keep riff-raff out of my part of the park. I asked her if she wanted to take a shot. Ha....no humor in that old bag. I was still sitting there with the rifle tore down when the badges arrived. They too were humor-less, but then our local dicks are all having John Wayne syndrome. They went away after they contacted the city attorney and was told that there is no law on our city books that prevented me from cleaning ANY firearm outside on my own property. They were less than impressed when I ran a couple caps off to dry the barrel.
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MAN Yawl are funny!!! That topped-off lunch QUITE well!
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HAHA that made my day! both of you!
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Some day I'll tell ya'll about the two pigs. And then there's the Thanksgiving morning deer. Both of these took place in my yard/driveway and I live in a city of 100,000 +.
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Back tgo that mold. Did you spray the mold with mold release? Hot lead will fillyour molds a lot better if you first spray mold release and let it dry.
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Back tgo that mold. Did you spray the mold with mold release? Hot lead will fillyour molds a lot better if you first spray mold release and let it dry.
No, didn't know anything about that. Guess I'll order that too since I need some gate pliers. And here I was thinking this would be easier than pouring worms! ???
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Barlows offers about 5 different types of gate cutters. Any suggestions? http://www.barlowstackle.com/Gate-Cutters-C138.aspx
Currently working with 3/4oz football head jig, Model FBB-3H-AF.
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The 3/4 oz head is pretty heavy so I'd probably go with the 5 3/4" cutter. Before doing that, why don't you try the snapping off of the sprue like Tom suggested or the twisting off like I mentioned. It takes a little longer, but you'll save a lot of time filing / sanding.
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Kip one thing you can try is smoking the mold. Take a candle light it. Let it burn for just a min. Then blow it out. Take the mold and smoke the cavities. The cavities will turn little black. My grandpa does that anytime one acts funny. It does help.
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Find a heavy set of pliers that doesn't have serrations on the jaws ( or grind / file the serrations off ) and hold the jig head with them and use a heavy pair of pliers to snap the sprues off. If you use the hook at all you will loosen the head. I use an older 5" long wide style flat nose to hold the head and a 7" bent nose to bend / snap the sprue off. Just be extra careful when pouring; Molton lead is much less forgiving than 350 degree plastic.
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The 3/4 oz head is pretty heavy so I'd probably go with the 5 3/4" cutter. Before doing that, why don't you try the snapping off of the sprue like Tom suggested or the twisting off like I mentioned. It takes a little longer, but you'll save a lot of time filing / sanding.
Might be easier to snap off once I start using the softer lead.
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Might be easier to snap off once I start using the softer lead.
The alloys are actually more brittle and snap off easier than pure lead. Pure lead will need to be flexed a couple times to snap/twist the sprues off. Snapping/twising leaves little evidence that a sprue was there.
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Some day I'll tell ya'll about the two pigs. And then there's the Thanksgiving morning deer. Both of these took place in my yard/driveway and I live in a city of 100,000 +.
Don't make us wait too long! I'm enjoying this and sharing the stories with my wife. She doesn't believe Mr Denny is a lawyer!
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. She doesn't believe Mr Denny is a lawyer!
I'm not sure I do either.
Ha ha.
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Most of my clients probably feel the same way, too.
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Most of my clients probably feel the same way, too.
;D Funny!
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The bad thing is,I think we all suffer from a short attention span, ADD.
What was supposed to be an informative, learning tool quickly turned into a laugh fest. :P
I of course wouldn't have it any other way!
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First thing is THANKS TO ALL WHO GAVE ADVICE! I'll try and post a pix later today. I bought some black silicone skirts, blue, and a greenish crawfish color. For the paint I bought Boss army green pumpkin. The paint looks good with the craw skirt, not so good with the others. I'm thinking about black and white paint. Can anyone suggest a few more standard colors that work well with a variety of skirts?
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Black ,green pumpkin , and white are the three I use the most. Red is nice too.
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Ok, don't laugh too hard. I know I should have sanded this one before I painted it.
(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n520/rcjcbc/001-2.jpg)
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nice looking jig kip...
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Looks great. I would tie it on in a heartbeat!
Jason
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Nothing wrong with that jig Kip. the fish aren't going to care if you sanded it or not. I'd fish it. Heck, the one's I make sometimes don't even have paint and still catch fish.
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Nothing wrong with that jig Kip. the fish aren't going to care if you sanded it or not. I'd fish it. Heck, the one's I make sometimes don't even have paint and still catch fish.
Lol Hawg..thanks again all.
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Looks like a winner to me.
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Very nice!
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The bass don't care if it's sanded or not best I can tell. Good looking jig. Hook choice, weight, skirt color choice, trailer color choice ( if one is used ) are important; not a smooth jig head.
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Good job, Kip. I'm proud of ya.
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I'd throw that jig at the best of 'em! Nice job kip!
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Anyone make tungsten jigs?
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Can you melt tungsten in a pot? I think I read it's a whole different animal.
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Can you melt tungsten in a pot? I think I read it's a whole different animal.
No. Melting point is over 6,000 degrees. Ma' definitely wouldn't be down with that.
;D
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Wow lol. Was just wondering if it was chemically safer alternative but I'll my chances with lead rather then 6000 degrees lol.
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What do ya'll use to keep paint from getting in the weed guard holes? I used the teflon pin when I paint them, but when I pull it out, it often messes up the paint around the hole. Thanks.
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Teflon pin here. Before I molded the guard in. That's a pain to keep looking good in the heat.
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Kip, the Jig in the Pic is BANGIN'! You must be similar to me in the "perfectionist" department. Yep, it's definitely an affliction, but it turns out some nice baits! FINE Job Sir!
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If you are talking powder paint, my process is to heat it just enough to get the powder paint to stick. Then I toughen them up in the toaster oven for 20 minutes, and when they cool I epoxy the weed guards in. There's plenty of room... I never thought of leaving the pin in while painting.
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If you are talking powder paint, my process is to heat it just enough to get the powder paint to stick. Then I toughen them up in the toaster oven for 20 minutes, and when they cool I epoxy the weed guards in. There's plenty of room... I never thought of leaving the pin in while painting.
Are you painting past the head onto the barb too? When I do, paint clogs the hole if I don't use the pin.
Thanks BKJ. And yes I am some what of a perfectionist. I wouldn't want to buy a product knowing short cuts have been made and I certainly wouldn't sell one unless I was happy with it. If I did, I would have to point out the flaw otherwise my conscience would eat me alive.
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Kip, yes I use this method for several different types of jigs and always paint the whole jig head down to the hook shaft. The key is to get the lead just hot enough without getting it too hot. When you get it too hot you end up with too much paint...Are you using a fluid bed or just dipping in the jar?
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Homemade fluid bed
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I am old school= straight outta the jar so maybe that is the difference? ...couldn't say.