Custom Baits - Forum
Jigs, Spinnerbaits and Sinkers => Request a Lead Mold => Topic started by: ctom on 12/31/12 10:39 UTC
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....a multi-sized mold that shoots, say, three - 1/32, three - 1/16 and two - 3/32 with the 1/32 cut to accept #2 hooks, the rest cut to accept sizes 1 thru 2/0, all collar-less round head.
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and more molds with wire keepers
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and more molds with wire keepers
The wire keeper thing is relatively new to Do-It molds, of course... can you elaborate on what style heads, sizes, hooks, techniques etc.
The "L" style wire keeper works well, there is no doubt, and a small modification to existing designs is probably not all that difficult with a Dremel or similar tool... What other types of heads would you like to see the wire keeper on?
Thanks,
Jerry
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Jerry - If you look on Crappie.com, Texas Fishing Forum, etc. and see the modifications made -- they seem to have this theme - 1/24th to 1/16th oz head; The tapered walleye or a "flat sided ball" head to attached a stick on eye. Wire keeper instead of a collar if for plastic or no collar if for tying. - # 4 or #2 hook. Eye size 3.5 to 4.5 mm.
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Thanks Bro', that's the kind of feed back I need.
I think we're on the right track with the wire keepers, we just need a little input like that to help us figure out where to take it from here. suredopreciater
Jerry
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Hey Jerry V do I send my jig head prototypes to Jason or to you in Iowa
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Hey Matt --- Send 10 copys to me !!! :D :D. I still haven't received the GPS co-ordinates for those Crappie and Bream spots either ::).
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you should gone ice fishing with today got me limit of crappie and bluegills had blast the nano is a goooood bait :P
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Matt, you can send any jig head prototypes you have to me:
Do-It Corporation
attn: Jerry Van Sickle
501 North State Street
Denver, Ia 50622
Include all of your contact information etc. and we will take a good look at it. We can't be everything to everybody, but we would like to have a good idea what we can do to make the line better for sure. I would say any plastics designs/ideas are all Jason's baby.
(plenty of extras are appreciated and way points for good fishing holes gain bonus points) 8)
Jerry
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on the fishing thing I live cedar rapids Iowa about one hour away form you
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Small world, getting smaller Matt... You a Hawkeye fan?
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yes sir ;D
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IU
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20 bucks for your wire for the A-rig is a bit much Jerry.
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20 bucks for your wire for the A-rig is a bit much Jerry.
Sorry man, I don't have much to say concerning Do-it's product pricing. I'm guessing that it's based on wire prices and assembly costs. I suppose that it might be worth 4 bucks a piece to some people to have a ready made wire to put in their mold vs. fashioning their own. (there are 5 forms per package) Do you make a lot of A-rigs yourself?
Jerry
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The wire forms also have the swivels and clips wrapped on.
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The wire forms also have the swivels and clips wrapped on.
That's right... they're ready to roll right out of the package, nothing to do but set 'em in a mold and pour away.
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and more molds with wire keepers
I have the collarless pro series molds in all sizes from 1/32 to 1/2 and can slip a piece of fine stainless wire along side the hook's shank with the mold closed in every one of them. I cast the jig with the wire straight and then bend and trim when you are ready to paint.
Barlows tackle's 2013 catalog has the wire I use on page 30 in the lower left corner. I use the .013" wire and the 30 foot coil will make a bazillion plastic keepers. I cut my wires initially at about two inches and use a fine point needle nose to put a slight interference bend in the "very end" that gets cast in the head....you don't need much. When I trim the wire off after casting, the trim end gets used for the next round. You can also simply trim the wire to the length you want after casting and just lift it up off the hook's shank slightly and leave it straight.
On crappie sized heads you do not need a super heavy wire at all and even thin wire is a pain on the tiny heads so I also use a lot of super glue on those collarless heads. If I put just a rub of glue on the hook shank with a new plastic and they'll stay put for a long time. For the most part I tend to limit wire use to heads of 1/8 or more where walleyes and other toothie denizens tend to tear at the plastic more.
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I have the collarless pro series molds in all sizes from 1/32 to 1/2 and can slip a piece of fine stainless wire along side the hook's shank with the mold closed in every one of them. I cast the jig with the wire straight and then bend and trim when you are ready to paint.
Barlows tackle's 2013 catalog has the wire I use on page 30 in the lower left corner. I use the .013" wire and the 30 foot coil will make a bazillion plastic keepers. I cut my wires initially at about two inches and use a fine point needle nose to put a slight interference bend in the "very end" that gets cast in the head....you don't need much. When I trim the wire off after casting, the trim end gets used for the next round. You can also simply trim the wire to the length you want after casting and just lift it up off the hook's shank slightly and leave it straight.
On crappie sized heads you do not need a super heavy wire at all and even thin wire is a pain on the tiny heads so I also use a lot of super glue on those collarless heads. If I put just a rub of glue on the hook shank with a new plastic and they'll stay put for a long time. For the most part I tend to limit wire use to heads of 1/8 or more where walleyes and other toothie denizens tend to tear at the plastic more.
Good tips as always Tom, that's why I love this forum! I use a lot of 1/16 and some 1/8. I can see 1/32 being a pain to do a wire keeper in, glue is a good trick.
As far as which molds/sizes, Jerry... I can see replacing any barbed collars w/ wirekeepers being an improvement.
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Jerry... I can see replacing any barbed collars w/ wirekeepers being an improvement.
Thiis is one big affirmative.
I have the egghead mold with the ring and barb behind the head. I cut all of everything barb related off the heads and use glue. Too many plastics get split and torn with those large keeper barbs. The wires aren't real kind to plastic either but they are a sight better than the cast-on keeper barbs, Gotta keep in mind that anglers use a lot of plastic profiles and some of those just will not work with a lead hook sticking up an eighth of an inch off the hook shank.
I found a side cutter that can cut lead very clean along the shank of a hook and everything I cast that has an angled barb cast with the head gets a snip treatment so I have the head only unless I am planning to tie buckies and then I either flatten the pointed barrb of snip it off leaving the tying collar in place.
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So this mold is a good start...
http://do-itmolds.com/shop/index.php?route=product/category&path=1_7_2083
but maybe do it with a flat sided jig and in maybe 1/32, 1/28, 1/16, 1/8 and 1/4 oz. with slightly larger hooks in the smaller sizes perhaps?
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I have more than one mold that I have filled in the barb areas with JB weld. It works well and saves a lot of lead removing via wire cutters. Glue is good, unless you forget it; or it has turned solid in a hot storage box.
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Glue is good, unless you forget it; or it has turned solid in a hot storage box.
Or you put it in your pants pocket....experience here...and have the cap leak.
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I have more than one mold that I have filled in the barb areas with JB weld. It works well and saves a lot of lead removing via wire cutters. Glue is good, unless you forget it; or it has turned solid in a hot storage box.
Another good way to fill in the barbs is high temp silicone. It will last a LONG time and its not permanent!
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Another good way to fill in the barbs is high temp silicone. It will last a LONG time and its not permanent!
Very good point RonDon... it does a very good job and is a little easier to work with, plus if for what ever reason you would like to revert to the oriinal design, it's not a real pain to get where you want to go and back again if need be.
Jerry
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I get 5 wire forms made for 9 bucks. Keeping my cost down. So that I can pass that on the customer.
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I get 5 wire forms made for 9 bucks. Keeping my cost down. So that I can pass that on the customer.
That's all good for you and your customers as well, you gotta do what's right for you and them. There are likely at least a few people out there who appreciate that they can make a few baits in their own shop or garage and have fun doing it themselves too. It all works out.
Jerry
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So this mold is a good start...
http://do-itmolds.com/shop/index.php?route=product/category&path=1_7_2083
but maybe do it with a flat sided jig and in maybe 1/32, 1/28, 1/16, 1/8 and 1/4 oz. with slightly larger hooks in the smaller sizes perhaps?
If you did this mold- Round Head Jig - Tapered Barb Collar - RHB-1060 8 (4 Each Size) 1/16 1/8 - as a wire keeper, it would be the first mold I buy.
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But what about those folks who would like to go a little smaller than a 1/16 or a little larger than a 1/8 based on their techniques or conditions? I think you could get this mold to do what you would like to do and this mold has the other guys covered too:
do-itmolds.com/shop/index.php?route=product/category&path=1_7_2083
(Keep in mind that you can typically use a hook one size larger or smaller than the designated hook size)
Maybe we need to think about more than one mold that could cover the sizes shown there but add 1/24 and with multiple cavities of 2 or 3 sizes in a mold.
Jerry
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Most of the purchasers of a mold of this type are going to be pretty serious fishermen. I would think multiple cavities of either one, or two sizes would be more desirable. Most crappie fishermen in the south seem to use 1/32, 1/24, or 1/16 oz. heads.
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That 1/24 th would be nice in a collarless as would a 3/32.
And yes, I am a serious crappie angler. There are times when the 1/24 or the 3/32 would be a super way to tailer a presentation.
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If I want to make 2 dozen of a given size, I'd rather do them 4 at a time as opposed to 1 at a time. I use mostly 1/8th and 1/16th, so that would be my preference personally. I still like the molds with 1 each of a bunch of different sizes, as they would give me more sizes to play around with, but they would be secondary to more of a production style mold with 2 sizes. But to each his own. It will be awhile before I get into lead anyway... have too many plastic molds on the wishlist! :D
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For anyone wanting 1/24oz. I had a mold made to make ballhead and barbed collar in these. This isnt a do it your self mold either. Had a guy outa texas make it for me. Interested in some jigheads from it message me