Custom Baits - Forum
Jigs, Spinnerbaits and Sinkers => Lures => Topic started by: MO QWACK on 12/16/13 19:21 UTC
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Im getting tired of the drips so...I was wondering it anyone had any tip for cleaning a Lee pot? I haven't cleaned since I bought it about 10 years ago ::) I drain all the lead already and removed the plunger rod. what's next?
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One way to help the drips. Is to flux up through the hole. Put wax on wire bent 90 degs and poke it through. Helps clean the junk off of it.
But you have it tore down. So I'm lost. Buy new I guess.
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being its took apart I would get a wire wheel that attaches to a drill and clean the pot and plunger rod and then a wire pipe cleaner and clean the spout just make sure to wear your proper protection while doin this because the sand and material that gets knocked loose cant be good for you. but as far as the drips go I suggest what Justin said but ive been told that the drips is just part of it hope this helps
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While some leave lead in the pot when done I'm not one of them. My 2 original pots were 24 and 27 years old - and I finally had to go to Lee for their 1/2 price replacement program. Those pots before they died made 1000's of jigs and I love how easy they are to use. The Lee's will leak, they are a bottom pour pot and stuff sinks.
You didn't say anything about fluxing your lead!!! If you don't DO IT!!!!!!!!!!!! Until a thread about it on TackleUnderground Best Lead Melt Flux? - Wire Baits - TackleUnderground.com I had never fluxed my lead, and I'm a convert!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! It helps keep the lead clean and makes it pour so much better.
Here's what I do for cleaning after EVERY USE!!!
When all the lead is out of the pot I WEARING GLOVES tilt it forward to get any remaining lead to flow out the hole, I turn the pot down to about 200 degrees and then I shove the jig wire (old bass jig with the barb cut off and shaped into an L) up into the hole from the bottom and remove any clogs/buildup, then I use a long piece of spinner making wire and do the same from the top.
I then turn the pot off and let it cool totally. When cooled I pull the pouring bar out of the pot and use an old knife and a piece of steel wool to get any crap off it and then use an old flat head screwdriver to scrape the inside of the pot down. I tip the pot over and knock all the scrapings out then use a big piece of steel wool to wipe the inside of the pot till totally clean. I even use a fine long handled flat head screwdriver to help clean the pour spout inside the pot, tip it over and knock anything out, put the pour bar back in and it's set to go.
It worked well for me and the pots lasted a LONG time. That the original pots lasted 24 and 27 years shows it works, plus when you go to pour again everything is clean and ready to go.
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So you clean after every use, fatman?... also please say more about the flux (brand, amount, etc.)
I found that letting the pot cool with less than half (maybe about a quarter) lead after you're done casting has less drips on the next heat up... and if you can spin the pin a little that usually cures it (but it's near impossible to do when the pot is full and still hard).
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Yep I clean after every use!! For fluxing all I'm using are small pieces of old Yankee scented candles and it works fine and makes for a nice smell.
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Wow... I'm presuming you have virtually no oxidation on the pot then... is there enough melted wax to seal the surface of the lead for less slag?
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If I'm not mistaken Lee actually recommends leaving lead in the pot, think I read that on their site. If your spout is dripping at a good clip a little lapping compound on the tip and a cordless drill do wonders for the seat.
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Once you put the wax in it should flame right up, I have an old dowel stick that I stir the lead with and any crud comes right out. My lead is all cleaned already but still fluxing makes for a nice pouring session, and truthfully I don't think you'll ever get all the crud out of the lead.
efishnc - No matter how well you clean a pot it will never look like it's brand new!! don't think it's possible to seal the surface of the lead, the wax ignites, you stir and impurities come up.
One thing you might want to check is loosen one of the top screws and use a pair of vise grips to pull the bar out. I have an old pocket knife and I take it and see if there's any buildup on the tip where it goes in the spout in the bottom. You'd be really surprised how much stuff can build up on it.
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Oddly enough; I used a Lee pot for ten or twelve years and I never had it less than 50% full of lead. I fluxed the lead and cleaned around the exposed part; but never "drained" the pot.
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Thanks Fatman- I went to the comp's site (TU) just to do a little sniffing around and really got the big picture now. Hard to believe I never heard of this in 40 or so years of casting... but then again, in the old days, we melted our lead in a cast iron fry pan on the stove in the basement kitchen, and we would know it was ready to pour by the smell of lead permeating through the house. Funny, I don't think it afflicted me any (wink)... at one time I thought I was getting smarter, but now I know better than that.
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Same here!! I know they warned about the flair up but still scared the crap out of me the first time!!!!LOL
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If I'm not mistaken Lee actually recommends leaving lead in the pot, think I read that on their site. If your spout is dripping at a good clip a little lapping compound on the tip and a cordless drill do wonders for the seat.
Yep!!! If the pot drips too bad you can take all the lead out and then take the plunger out and use lapping compound on it will help and that is what Lee suggest.
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I flux all my lead with Beeswax before making ingots.
Then each time I pour jigs I flux it again in the pot. I do make sure it is on fire and I stir it while it burns.
I do get more dross this way so I know my lead is cleaner.
I will have to try some of the tips here when I use my bottom pour pot to keep the drips down.