Custom Baits - Forum
Soft Plastic Bait Making => Soft Plastic and Plastic Baits - How To??? => Topic started by: Jwatson on 08/13/11 10:36 UTC
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I have a ten inch delmart two piece u tail mold and it's a hand pour and they said on the site to pour the tail then close the mold and pour the body. Well I did all that and the finished product the body would peel away from tail with ease. How would I go about fixing this problem?
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If this is important to you I would ask Del to make you a tail mold. In the short term you could inject the worm the color you want the tail, cut the tail off, put it back in, then inject the body. It should give you a perfect bait.
Here is an example on a ribbon tail. We also do the same on the Stump Thumper and many other baits.
The Finished Bait (red tail)
(http://www.caneycreekmolds.com/assets/images/10inribbedribtailbait.jpg)
The Worm Mold
(http://www.caneycreekmolds.com/assets/images/10inRibbedRibTailMold.jpg)
The Tail Mold
(http://www.caneycreekmolds.com/assets/images/ribbontailmold.jpg)
Doing it this way will let you make up a bunch of tails and use them as needed with whatever color body you want.
Tight lines!
Jason
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Make sure that the body plastic (second injection) is HOT. I like it around 330 to 350 degrees.
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Keeping your mold real warm is very important also. Essentially, you need to pour that tail, close the mold and quickly pour the body with the hot plastic as mentioned.
Any delay or having a cool mold on the start will cause you problems...
I like Jason's suggestion best though. Inject the full cavity, cut the tail off and then inject the body. You should get good attachment then.
Jim
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What about modifying the "stem" of the tail, the part that will mate-up to the body, so the 1st portion of the stem is smaller than the base of the body, so when You shoot the body the liquid plastic forms around the modified tail-stem and locks the tail in place...as opposed to relying on a light bond between the body and tail, hot plastic shot onto the pre-fab tail...?
Just my Shad and Crawfish (2 cents/scents)...DunDun, Tsht! ...that was lame...I know.
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I know the mold he is talking about because I was looking aroumd before I bought the CC one and injrctor.
It is a HAND POUR mold. It states on the sight that the tail must be poured first with mold open, and then the mold closed and body is poured.
So I understand the OP question and agree I would not know how to pour the tail in an open 2- piece mold either.
But if the de-lamination is the only prob then others have answered that above. Pour the second color right away and hotter plastic
I would convert it to an injection mold if that is possible.
...Bill
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There is a thread about converting hand pour molds to injection molds. Check that out.
I converted a 5" grub mold from hand pour to injection by having the shop at work drill out the hole to 5/8". I had the same issue...hand pour the tail first...then top pour the body...it made really poor baits (I'm hand pour challenged). The tail was always to thick! After "conversion" it makes a great grub.
Apparently some molds can be converted...some can't....only one way to find out. (I assume it's a venting issue).
If they drill the hold out carefully ....you will still have a hand/top pour mold if it won't inject.