Custom Baits - Forum
Jigs, Spinnerbaits and Sinkers => Painting and Finishing Lures => Topic started by: stephensharpe on 10/22/14 11:39 UTC
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I have a question off topic of molds haha, instead of molding the weedguards into my football head jigs i used the insert on 90% of them thinking it would be easier to powdercoat and bake. Now i have to insert the weedguards myseld using epoxy and the hole is a bit too small for the guard. Is there an easier way to get them inserted and seated well? I havent powdercoated yet bc i know it will reduce the size of the hole even further!
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Clean the hole out with a dremal tool after powder painting.
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Clean the hole out with a dremal tool after powder painting.
I'd just order a couple $5.00 bags of spare pins used during casting to block the holes during painting and curing then pull them to add the weedguard.
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I'd just order a couple $5.00 bags of spare pins used during casting to block the holes during painting and curing then pull them to add the weedguard.
I usually mold them in and use he Liquid Vinyl Paint but when I plan to Powder Paint I also utilize the extra base hole pins. It just makes sense to me to keep the paint out of the hole to begin with rather than remove it after its in there. (just my 2 bits)
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I'll have to try to contact him again I guess.
For the mold question, use Teflon pins. Mold them in and paint them with pins in. After painting and before the paint sets take the pin out.
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Base hole pins!!!
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I've been following the custom molds thread in the general discussion and it took a detour to say that has made me curious since there are several different answer. What is the best way to keep the weedguard hole clear when powder painting and curing jigs? Just regular base pins? Or teflon pins?
Josh
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The reason I like the Teflon pins is that if paint does stick to it you can easily chip them off. I get longer use out of them too. I think it really comes down to a personal preference as they all perform the same job.
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I use the regular base pin to pour the jig and then take it out for the powder paint and curing. Then after curing I take a 1/8 drill and clean the hole out. It's perfect every time and takes seconds to do.
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I use Teflon pins. For the reasons bucko said. Then I take a steel line burring tool to the hole to clean the edges.
My wife won't let me run power tools I tend to drill holes in my hand.
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My wife won't let me run power tools I tend to drill holes in my hand.
Wives are funny like that.
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I've done all but the Teflon pins, and protecting the weed guard with the heat resistant tubing is my preferred method... it just seems to be the least work for me.
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efishnc: With the heat resistant tubing, do you cure it for the same amount of time with the same heat?
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Yes, if you go by the old school method of 300 degrees; no, if you go with the sheet with hotter individual temps listed. Dragonfly (one of my favorite colors) is listed for 395 to cure, but 350 will melt the paint to where it will run and close the eyes on smaller bass jigs. In my mind, melting the paint is a smidge too hot.
Also, if you use a toaster oven, be aware of which elements are in use... if you get too much heat hitting the weed guards, they will start to curl, especially the finer ones. 350 away from the elements doesn't seem to affect the weed guards, but the paint runs at that temp... so again, I go with 300.
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I think too much heat is used to cure powder paints period. Every once in a while I am asked to oven cure painted head, primarily smaller ones. If I don't clear the eyes before hand, after heating these at 190 degrees for 20 minutes its very hard to get eyes cleared. The tool I showed the other day in a picture clears the eyes ok but those little red eye popper jobs are worthless. I've done the 190 degrees with all colors of powder paint and paints from all over the powder paint market and the results are the same without any running. And that paint is like a diamond in hardness. Back off the heat and you'll enjoy fewer headaches.
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Alright cool. I'll have to try the heat resistant tubing and 190 degrees for 20 instead of the hotter recommended temperature. Thanks for the replies.
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Dragonfly where would a guy get that color?
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Dragonfly where would a guy get that color?
That's a CS (Do-it) color, #78; it is a blue/green hue that works for bluegills or early summer craws.
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The tool I showed the other day in a picture clears the eyes ok but those little red eye popper jobs are worthless.
The best way I've found to clear eyes is either to blow them clear while the jig is still warm. If needing to clear after the jig has cooled, just reheat the eye a little and blow it clear. (When I say blow it clear, imagine yourself as a little kid with bubble wand.) Although this may not work for panfish jigs, it is no problem on bass jigs.
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Thanks. Sounds like a color I need
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It's tasty!
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I absolutely cannot get this fluid bed functioning correctly. Anyone got any tips? I have a 2 inch pvc union with a 40 gallon aquarium pump. I have the valve the whole 9 yards. 2- 2.5 inches of pvc top and bottom side.. Havent been this aggrivated in a while.... >:(
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I absolutely cannot get this fluid bed functioning correctly. Anyone got any tips? I have a 2 inch pvc union with a 40 gallon aquarium pump. I have the valve the whole 9 yards. 2- 2.5 inches of pvc top and bottom side.. Havent been this aggrivated in a while.... >:(
How's the humidity there where you live?