Custom Baits - Forum
General => General Discussion => Topic started by: BareKnuckleJigs on 04/01/15 06:53 UTC
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There are many Lubes designed specifically for Fishing Reels, both Oil and Grease. There are a few that dominate the positive reviews. I enjoy maintaining my Gear, and definitely enjoy the Solid Slickness of a freshly/correctly-lubed reel.
There may be some details that others are mindful of, such as, "don't use detergent oils in reels" or "that oil can cut grease" or "that grease may not be compatible with the existing grease", among others.
I tried an "unconventional" (no pun intended) Pair of Lubes for my reels awhile back, and I have been well pleased. I go through a lot of Reel Lube, I like to maintain my equipment...running out of lube is a pain, also.
For Oil, I use Royal Purple XPR 0w-10 Ultralight Engine Oil...it's almost like water so it's not too heavy for Reels. It is a Detergent Oil so it can cut grease, so be precise it the application. None of the parts in my reels are gummed-up with old grease, anymore, which is something that makes reels start to get sluggish/stiff. The 1st time I used it in my Cardiff 300, it casted almost as well as my Calcutta 200GTB and was almost as slick...I was stoked. My Calcuttas are better now than they were new.
For Grease, Royal Purple Ultra Performance Grease, #2 NLGI. The issues that can arise with grease is Weight and Compatibility. Compatibility with other Greases is the main concern. When 2 greases meet that aren't compatible, they liquify. Grease Compatibility Charts can be helpful, but more-so if You know both/all Greases involved. Remove old grease, apply new grease, then keep an eye on it over some time. If it liquifies, remove it again then reapply new grease until it stabilizes.
I've been away from Designated Reel Lubes for a few years, and I see no need to stop what I'm doing.
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Quantum Hot Sauce for both the oil and the grease if I use any. Most reels new get side plates pulled and most of the grease removed, then liberal amounts of hot sauce is added before the plate goes back on. Southern climate like yours Gary is one thing. Reels at 20 degrees like we can see and fish in almost bind up.
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Good post, you guys.
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I use hot sauce also.
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I use Ardent reel lube products and am pleased with them. I have changed out a couple of my reels to ceramic bearings and am pleased with them as well.
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I use Ardent reel lube products and am pleased with them. I have changed out a couple of my reels to ceramic bearings and am pleased with them as well.
x2
have also replaced most my bearings and wow what a difference!!!!!!!!!
ardent oil,bearin lube an grease can be picked up online cheap also.. look for the 3 packs.. got mine shipped tmd for 12$ for all 3..
that was a deal
never thought about using royal purple products.
might have to experiment
;)
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I use hot sauce on my eggs. :o I buy cheap reels and when they break; I throw them away and buy new ones. I love hot sauce, never put it on a reel, I'll have to try it! (Wonder if I'll break my upper plate when I bite in?) ;D ;D
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Electrical connector cleaner. Soak your bearing in that for hour or so. Then wipe and let dry for couple hours. Then oil.
I switch to ceramic bearings too. They are well worth the money.
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Electrical connector cleaner. Soak your bearing in that for hour or so. Then wipe and let dry for couple hours. Then oil.
I switch to ceramic bearings too. They are well worth the money.
How do you buy ceramic bearings ?
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The only after market mod I have done to my reels is changing the drag washers in my spinning reels to carbon washers. Huge difference there.
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Cals Drag Grease and Lucas Oil reel oil.
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Cals Drag Grease and Lucas Oil reel oil.
I second the Cals and Lucas oil. I was so pleased with the difference the ceramic bearings made that I converted the rest of my reels last winter. I also found that stella parts fit the Stradic so all the bushings have been changed to bearings. I found the cheapo harbor freight ultra sonic cleaner to work the best for cleaning the bearings and reel parts.
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How do you buy ceramic bearings ?
Boca bearing. I don't remember the website address Google them. Watch a few videos it's pretty easy to install them. I bet I gained 50 feet in my crankin rod setup. Plus casting is effortless with them. Saves wear and tear on you fishing all day.
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Boca bearing. I don't remember the website address Google them. Watch a few videos it's pretty easy to install them. I bet I gained 50 feet in my crankin rod setup. Plus casting is effortless with them. Saves wear and tear on you fishing all day.
I found them later after I read this. I can see here goes another couple hundred bucks. They make four grades of ceramic bearings. Which one do you buy ?
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I installed the Abec 7's with the orange seal.
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I have 7's. And 5's. Both work very well
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I prefer the self warming but the tingle ain't bad ::)
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I have 7's. And 5's. Both work very well
They get shipped dry, make sure you pull the shields and lube them.
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They get shipped dry, make sure you pull the shields and lube them.
Yes he is right. They come dry. I got bocas oil too.
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Ok thanks
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.......and if you do enough reels they send you this handy dandy mouse pad(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/04/02/eeeb4a78abb88ab6516d6bd33860fdef.jpg)
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
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Is the improvement worth the cost?
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I guess I'm going to find out
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Cost - Benefit is always somewhat subjective. On a reel that is used for casting baits the fellow that convinced me to try the ceramics said that they help most on either light or heavy baits. But; distance and smoothness will be noticed on all weights. This has proved to be the case for me. I have installed them on two Cores and two Chronarchs and they feel smoother to me. I enjoy using the reels more. Now is it worth $25 to $30 a reel - to me the difference in these reel's performance says yes.
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Casting crankin with spooky fish yes. Easier to cast in a eight hour tournament yes.
Fishing grandpas farm pond for a hour no.
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My friend is building Abu c 6500 he's putting in none oil bearing fill frame so all yes and done it's going to have 12 to 15 bearing just to go cat fishing
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abec 5's are good enough.. only reason u should get the abec 7's if u fish alot of saltwater. they got the orange seal on them tp prevent saltwater gettin in them. boca does ship bearing dry. just add 1 drop of oil to each bearing. To much oil will hinder/slow down them and u won't fell a difference. I upgraded several of the reels i own and wow.. u can tell a difference.
Call boca . talk to Jeff. he is great
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Still using these Royal Purple products in my Reels and it is Phenomenal. XPR, Baby!
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All my reels get cleaned every year front spinning reels baitcasters to make catfish reels I use quantum hot sauce and Rocket oil while have to check out the Royal Purple but ceramic bearings if you want to slow down LOL if you don't want to come down don't add oil
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GAAAWW! Dis Thread been read over 11-touzand Times!
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I've been using Royal Purple's Ultra-Performance NLGI #2 Grease and XPR 0w-10 Racing Engine Oil in my reels for some years now, and I have been very, very pleased, to say the least.
As things have progressed I've moved most of my fishing to Spinning Gear, as I've aged and see the need to put more of the strain of fishing into my right hand (and off of my left).
Doing so, my main two reels are Penn Slammer III 3500, which have sealed bodies and are IPX6-rated for water-intrusion-resistance.
Entertaining the thoughts of further-upgrading these 2 reels, I looked into the Van Staal VR50 reels, which are IPX8-rated, with truly sealed bodies.
In doing so, I see that Van Staal offers the option to pack the reel bodies with Royal Purple MaxGear 85w-90 Gear Oil...like a rear differential (respectively).
This got me thinking. Slammer III bodies are mostly sealed, but not as completely as the Van Staals. Maybe I can thin some Grease with an Oil, so it's thicker but would still "settle on itself" and not stay in place like standard Grease, so it continually relubricates inside the body.
I kept digging, I found a Royal Purple PDF of their Viscosity Ratings.
Their heaviest MaxGear Gear Oil's viscosity is cSt 284 @ 40 degrees Celsius.
However, Max-Tuff Assembly Oil is cSt 650 @ 40 degrees Celsius...respectively, a little over twice as thick, while being an oil, capable of its own flow to keep parts lubricated.
I'll be home Wednesday morning and have two 8-ounce bottles of Max-Tuff waiting on me at a local Auto Parts store.
I'm going to fill both bodies of my Slammers with this viscous, slick Assembly Oil, and grease the body seals as I close the hood on these reels.
My only concern is leakage, and I will report my findings here.
See Ya'll Soon 👊
https://royalpurpledirect.com/max-tuff-synthetic-assembly-lubricant/ (https://royalpurpledirect.com/max-tuff-synthetic-assembly-lubricant/)
(https://custombaits.com/gallery/315-030919034639.jpeg)
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This should be the correct link for the Royal Purple PDF file.
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=http://www.royalpurpleindustrial.com/assets/RP_Industrial_Brochure_20171.pdf&ved=2ahUKEwiEgeq1t7TkAhUjnq0KHZ--AR4QFjAIegQIAxAB&usg=AOvVaw3-UbXJT8iAEjigfMTJEqUu (https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=http://www.royalpurpleindustrial.com/assets/RP_Industrial_Brochure_20171.pdf&ved=2ahUKEwiEgeq1t7TkAhUjnq0KHZ--AR4QFjAIegQIAxAB&usg=AOvVaw3-UbXJT8iAEjigfMTJEqUu)
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Another Royal Purple PDF file with some info.
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://www.carid.com/images/royal-purple/items/pdf/royal-purple-product-catalog.pdf&ved=2ahUKEwi3tcGMuLTkAhUCa60KHfmTDasQFjAEegQIBhAC&usg=AOvVaw1nVn8gDQu1Fxe3TUqR1CZv (https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://www.carid.com/images/royal-purple/items/pdf/royal-purple-product-catalog.pdf&ved=2ahUKEwi3tcGMuLTkAhUCa60KHfmTDasQFjAEegQIBhAC&usg=AOvVaw1nVn8gDQu1Fxe3TUqR1CZv)
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I will say this about Penn: Penn says that if you use ANY oil or grease other than Penn's, the warranty is voided.
PFFF. Warranty Shmarranty 🙄
I'm looking for the best lubrication, and I value durability, reliability and longevity, and I'm thinking about how to do it, Outside The Box.
I'm looking for absolute lubrication, NOT how long a reel will "free-spin" without my hand being on it.
Van Staal owners are raving about the benefits of the oil-packed bodies.
Smooth. Solid. Protected. Working.
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Great information BKJ !!!
That’s one thing a lot of people overlook when it comes to there fishing gear.
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Thank You, Dubya Dubya 👊😁
Packed one of the reel's gear box (body) yesterday. That Max-Tuff is one thick oil 🤣 and it doesn't have much of a smell...I mention the smell because some Van Staal owners that use the MaxGear in their reels did say the Gear Oil smells strong.
Once the oil settled into place, filling the gear box, I put grease around the edge of the side plate that would mate with the seal, closed it up, wiped off the little grease around the side plate.
It did slightly stiffen the reel, but I expected that. It's a little smoother and a little more solid-feeling. The Slammer III reels are smooth, solid, tight reels already, but this addition is definitely an improvement, especially knowing that heavy oil is constantly stirring inside the body.
So far, so good...and no leakage, yet 👊
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So, You are using this oil where the reel normally uses grease? I just ordered a bottle to try. I don't want to use thick oil in my fast and free moving parts. I use Shimano, Abu Garcia, and Lews baitcasters mostly.
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21XDC, Yes, Sir 👊
Where grease is normally applied to the gears inside the gear box of spinning reels with at least some level sealing of the gear box (body) is where I'm putting the Max-Tuff oil, so it's "flooded" like a crankcase or rear differential of a vehicle.
If I were to apply it to casting reels, I'd put thin coats on gears and on the line guide (level wind) worm gear where grease is normally applied, but at this point, doing so would be an experiment and would need to be watched closely to determine this oil's applicability to such service.
Of course, everything related to the spool of casting reels such as the bearings that support the spool shaft, and the spool shaft itself, is where I apply the very light, thin XPR 0w-10 engine oil, so those parts move freely.
Max-Tuff does settle since it's an oil, so definitely keep an eye on what the oil does, so oil doesn't get everywhere, because at this early stage, this is absolutely an experiment.
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Salt applications may call for other types of lubes than freshwater, I haven't any idea as I don't fish salt. Personally I clean and service all my reels during the winter when non use is likely. I use nothing but Quantum Hot Sauce with a great deal of success and have been doing this for many, many year. Some of these reels have seen 15-18 years of hard use and are still as smooth and reliable as ever.
Here in Minnesota where we might fish in some pretty cold weather I'll take a new reel from the box and the first stop is the desk where I remove the side cover and commence to get every bit of factory grease out of the reel. After washing the innards and drying I reassemble using the dropper needle on the Hot Sauce. This is basically what I do during the winter service for the other reels. I disassemble the spools and drag components and clean and reassemble....my reels all get Teflon/carbon drag washers. Reels can get pretty darned stiff if the factory grease is left in them and I have had brand new Ticas designed for ice fishing get so stiff in the cold that the handle broke on one just reeling in line. The Hot Sauce works wonders for me, but I do have a few reels that see nothing but summer use so I am going to give this Purple product a try in them. I have two primary rigs for Lake Superior casting which is really demanding casting. One is a 20 year old Sahara 4000 series spinning reel, the other a three year old Symetre 4000 series. I'm going to give that old Sahara a purple treatment this winter, change line and put it back on the primary rod to see how it performs. Based on what you mention Gary, if this Purple is slightly more viscous [less thin] might be able to help protect those open bearing a bit better. I'm going to give it a try anyway.
Thanks for posting this Gary.
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Roger on'nat, Mr. Tom 👊
If I can get my camera holder positioned correctly, I might video the 2nd reel being filled with the Max-Tuff, and will share it if so.
First Field Trial happens shortly. Going throw a few larger Hardbaits in the Big Salty Louisiana Lake, just for kicks, nothing serious.
We'll see if I get leakage from the area where the spool shaft exits the gear box while retrieving with the rod tip down.
Gear Box Seal is still dry. Like a Boss 👊😁
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And Yes, Sir, the Max-Tuff is a LOT more viscous (thicker). My hopes were that the more-viscous oil would have less tendency (or ability) to migrate or seep through seals than would the thinner oils, since the Slammer is IPX6-rated, not IPX8-rated like the Van Staals.
From eyeballing the two bottles of oil side-by-side, the first reel took maybe 0.5 ounces or 0.75 ounces to fill the body, so there's a LOT left over. Of course, reels with larger gear boxes will require more as I'm only working with Slammer III 3500 reels.
Side Note: Surely this thick oil will find many other uses around the house.
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First run = Flawless.
Zero leakage. Top notch smoothness and solid feel.
IMO, well-worth the money and effort, and the constant relubrication is guaranteed.
Excellent Decision 👊
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Filled the second Slammer III 3500 with the Max-Tuff and so far have the exact same results. May go throw a few baits with it tomorrow, just for experimental purposes, of course 😁
I mixed some Royal Purple Grease with some Max-Tuff to make a thinner grease...I've never seen grease so sticky and stringy as this 😎
Opened a lighter, non-sealed Penn Sargus 3000. Pulled most of the old Royal Purple grease out of it. Heavily BRUSHED in the new, thinner grease throughout the gear box.
A drop of Max-Tuff down the spool shaft.
The thinner XPR 0w-10 oil went into the bearings in each side of the gear box and in the line roller.
Brushed the thinned grease on several other places, some associated with the spool.
Fast-forward some work.
Again, it's slightly, slightly stiffer, but it's buttery smooth.
Not quite as free as before but it's much smoother and a little more solid.
I'm loving this Max-Tuff stuff.
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I've lubed 8 Spinning Reels during this visit home.
All Penn reels.
I want to try this lubing on a Shimano 👊😁
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8 Spinning Reels later and I'm trying to think of anywhere else I can put the Max-Tuff and Max-Tuff-fortified Grease.
I believe my next experiment will be the only two casting reels I have left, a Cardiff 300 and a Calcutta 200GTB.
All the interior gears and the worm gear for the line guide (level wind) will get it first, but I'm curious to see what straight Max-Tuff will do here, if a coat will cling to the gears and not fall over time.
When I get back home, it's on.
2 - Penn Slammer III 3500
1 - Penn Sargus 3000
1 - Penn Clash 4000
2 - Penn Battle 2000
1 - Penn Sargus 4000
1 - Penn Battle 5000
Pondering replacing my Battle 2000 with a Clash 2000. The Clash 4000 was the most surprising after this lube treatment. It remained more-free-spinning than the others, but the overall difference (before:after margin) in smoothness was impressive.
This thread has surpassed 20,000 views, so I gotta keep it going 👊😁
👊ROYAL👊PURPLE👊
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I tried 8 drops on my Lew's bait casters gears, It was too much oil ands got into one of the bearings. I couldn't cast more than 20 ft... :'(
I think 1-2 drops is enough. I used REM oil in the bearings, But the Maxx Tuff trumped the Rem oil over and over again. I need to break them down, Re-clean and re-oil.
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Roger! 🤣 Oops!
That Max-Tuff is thick!
Try a cheap, small paint brush and brush a thin coat on the gears. I got mine from Hobby Lobby, around the check-out, like $4 for a bag of various styles/sizes, probably 20-30 brushes.
What Ya mean, "the Max-Tuff trumped the RemOil"? The RemOil didn't flush the Max-Tuff out (not surprising)?
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Correct. No matter how much rem oil I put in, it would not cast far.
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Those open bearings will clean up pretty easily.
You'll get it, 21.
Keep us updated 👊
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Tuff. Purple. Muscle.
https://youtu.be/dkRi0jJOFmo (https://youtu.be/dkRi0jJOFmo)
(https://custombaits.com/gallery/315-250919025635.jpeg)
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21XDC, Max-Tuff is designed to be flushed away by circulating engine oil, and incorporate into engine oil, so maybe use a light engine oil to help get the Max-Tuff out of that bearing.
The XPR 0w-10 I use is mildly detergent and would possibly get it out.
I believe engine oils designed for street use will have greater detergent properties than the XPR so if You have a light engine oil handy, that might do the trick, without resorting to a solvent.
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How's that save going, 21XDC?
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Well, a new Shimano Stradic Ci4+ 2500 is in my possession.
This, without going to an Excense or a Stella, is the epitome of Smoothness, right out of the box.
Home Depot will see me soon, to provide the 0.9mm Hex Wrench I need to get into the body (gear box) of the Stradic, so I can brush the Royal Purple onto the internals.
I can not imagine how smooth this is going to be.
I'll definitely report back.
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"El Lado Oscuro" by Jarabe de Palo
https://youtu.be/6EEz7cEaX-k (https://youtu.be/6EEz7cEaX-k)
Just a Music Share. You're Welcome 😁
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Curawaka "Cuñaq"
https://youtu.be/-OfJyUuv6W0 (https://youtu.be/-OfJyUuv6W0)
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Almost a week late but happy birthday BKJ!