Custom Baits - Forum
Jigs, Spinnerbaits and Sinkers => Painting and Finishing Lures => Topic started by: Bsudd on 03/16/17 21:03 UTC
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I noticed today when painting some Jig heads that the powder wasn't sticking to good on some of the heads. It was like just melting off. Was this due to heating the heads too much? I did notice them smoking a good bit after dipping.
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They shouldn't smoke after dipping...
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Let me hit my beer...
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Ok I'm back...
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That's the Birds and the Bees, ain't it? Don't hate. I work nights.
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Sounds like You're getting the Lead Part too hot then dipping. Heat a little, then swish the Part in the Powder. If the Part comes out only slightly dusted, almost no paint, then heat a little longer (slightly) then swish in the powder again. Do this until You see how much to heat A GIVEN PART before swishing in powder, until You get the coat that You're looking for.
Please note, that smaller parts will heat faster so the Temp of the Part when it gets to the Powder will be higher than heavier/thicker parts because the Core of the Part will draw heat from the Surface of the Part until the Core heats up.
As the Weight changes, so should Your heating times. Small bursts of heat then swish in powder, until You get the hang of each part's weight and heating requirements.
Another thing that can be considered is the Part's distance from the heat source...I use a heat gun for coating. Use Your Thermometer to gauge the temp at given distances from Your heat source. I consider the Paint's Curing Schedule here, so I don't excessively exceed the Curing Schedule's Temperature, so I might not "burn" the Powder Paint.
Once I get a good coat I use that same general distance to set the Powder, by rolling the Part so the Heat gets to all sides...it'll get shinier as it "fuses" together on this initial coat-heat.
The True Curing Schedule is separate from this Coat-heat. The Cure Heating will achieve the Durability that is desired and beneficial, but not absolutely 100% necessary...more-so not 100% necessary if You tend to lose a lot of Parts in Fishing them.
Usually, once the Part is coated to my satisfaction, I run the Part under the heat gun for a total of maybe a minute, then Hang to Cool. This is Well-Enough, but yes, the Oven-curing Schedule DOES greatly increase durability.
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Sounds like to you got them to hot. All you need is just hot enough to make it stick. Then like Bones said it will look like powder. Then heat it again till it turns glossy. I'm assuming your going to bake it afterwards. That's what makes the paint hard.
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Sounds like to you got them to hot. All you need is just hot enough to make it stick. Then like Bones said it will look like powder. Then heat it again till it turns glossy. I'm assuming your going to bake it afterwards. That's what makes the paint hard.
Yes I bake all mine the oven. I've done a bunch and these few were only ones that done this, but as was said they were smaller weights, so I just think I heated them over heat gun a bit to long. The good thing is I can reheat them and dip again to paint those spots.
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This is a great video for people just starting to paint jigs with powder and answers lots of the questions associated with the process.
http://csipaint.com/instructions/techniques-instructions/how-to-use-pro-tec-powder-paints.php
In this link one can find info on the curing of powder paint too, but keep in mind that this is basic information. Small jigs....1/32 and smaller might have issues with curing heats as high as the 350 degrees mentioned so doing a little first hand research using only a jig or two might be of benefit. Jigs over 1/8 and up will handle curing temps to 350 for the prescribed 20 minutes. Also, paint color might become a factor in how long one leaves a jig in the oven along with the distance of the heads from the heat source. This is all part of the learning curve and there is no one size fits all answer to issues with powder paint.
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What dem 'heads lookin' like, Bsudd?