Light wire hooks are pretty easy to get to fit most molds as long as they are not the flat eye hooks. If you have a mold simply lay the hook you are considering in the cavity with everything lined up as you wish, carefully close the mold and continue to pinch the handles while laying the mold flat on a hard surface and giving the up-facing side a solid swat with a plastic hammer. Two swats max. D this with the other cavities as long as hook extension isn't an interference  with what you've already done.

Do-It's sand cast molds are very soft aluminum and lend themselves to tweeking real well.

Welcome aboard Dustman.

Have you got a picture of the hook? Easier to answer if we can see what we're dealing with as there are a million different wide-gaps out there today. OR what's the brand and style number of the hook you want to use?

It may matter if you're selling baits whether they've been cured or not. I don't sell much of any baits and if I do they're small baits, less than 2". Thicker baits like the Senkos , frogs and creatures can stand some resting time and I won't argue that it helps keep them straight. The wax wigglers and Ice Ticklers have super fine tails and those need to be laid straight right out of the mold to be straight later in the box, but an hour in the fridge does it nicely on those. The fry baits like a day of rest but they need little more, unless its quite warm where you're at making the baits. I think a general rule is the thicker the bait or the more volume required to make the bait, the longer the rest time.....if selling them is in the offing or you are persnickety and need perfect baits. But the reality is that baits right out of the mold fish very well.

 If you're catching fish like that on them then you're waiting to long. I'd make them right at the ramp.

Nice bass for a farm pond. Longer the better straight bait’s are key.