Why tapered collars?

[larryh]

I use a lot of heavy jigs in the fall for walleyes in deep water.  I have several Do It Molds for jigs and cannot understand the purpose of a tapered collar.  The tapered collars on the heavier jigs are so thick they split soft baits such as twister tails and swim type baits.  Even if they don't split the baits, the tapered shape pushes the bait back away from the jig head and you constantly have to push the bait back up the shaft.  I have to shave down the thickness of the collar with a Dremel drill and metal cutting bit to prevent these issues.  Really a pain.  A tapered collar make no sense to me from a fishing standpoint but there must be a reason Do It makes some of their molds this way. Is it for better lead flow when pouring?  Can someone enlighten me? 

[Lamar]

  You could fill it with JB weld so it was a hook shape instead of a tapered collar. Just an idea.

[larryh]

Thanks.  I have never tried JB weld to modify a mold.  Will have to experiment.

[Lines]

Good question Larryh. Why are they made with a taper? Even when tying hair or feather on the shafts, it would seem to be better if the shafts were straight.

[WALLEYE WACKER]

When I tie on the hook shank or tapper collar the first thing I do is put a drop of super glue than put a base of thread than super glue thread and tie hair or feathers on and when finished I super glue the wrap.

[brandx112679]

  X2

[Muskygary]

I think the tapered collar gives bucktail more of a "flair" and helps it thin out around the jig.

[smalljaw]

I may be wrong with the type of collar you are talking about but I'm assuming you mean a lead collar with a barb, correct? There are ring and barb collars that have a ring in order to hold and flare a skirt, then there are the plain collars that just taper down from the head and have a barb at the end, and then you have your holder barb which is like what is on an Ultra Minnow jig. The plain tapered collar with a barb is made to not split plastic, the taper allows a smaller entry point and gradually widens , this also helps the barb hold by creating a wedge effect. The holder type like the ultra minnow jig has is there to be able to hold plastic as well as to provide flare for some type of skirt or dressing, it tends to be a little short but it holds plastic fine unless you get it hung or catch a fish and that is when it usually gets pulled off. The ring and barb is the same as the tapered collar but if used without a skirt or dressing it holds a bit tighter due to the collar but they also tend to tear the plastic a bit after a few fish. If you are using a tapered collar and you are splitting the plastic, perhaps the plastic is too small for the jig or I'm not understanding correctly but a tapered collar works well for me.

[ctom]

Welcome to the Do-It forums Larry.

I have to agree with you on the tapered collars, barded or ringed.  I hate them. I usually get ball head molds that do not have any collars. If the     mold you currently have are dealing you fits, just use the JB High Temp and fill the area where the collar is supposed to be and then use a sharp, small file to re-cut the hook shank channel and level the JB. If you need to clean up inside the cavity use a Dremel and small stone bit to take out the excess. I generally retro fit my converted molds to accept the WB400 wire keeper insert. They are easy to get set in by laying the keeper wire next to the hook with the barb in the direction that the lead barb faced, close the mold slowly and carefully then give the mold a light swat with a plastic or rubber mallet while pinching the handles together tightly. You'll feel the mold "give" when the insert seats. Do one cavity at a time. Easy. Just be sure that the tiny hook is into the head cavity enough to ensure it will hold.

Again....welcome aboard Larry.

[andrewlamberson]

I cut off the lead barb area and tie on a wire bait keeper instead.

If I'm not going to put on a skirt I cut the whole thing off and then tie on the wire bait keeper.