Senko Questions

[hokienator]

Hi all I'm new here long time lurker as I've contemplated dipping into this hobby and now that I'm doing all my research and getting my ducks in order when it comes to buy molds I have a few questions for the more seasoned fellas on here.
I'm looking to buy the 4 inch Senko 4 cavity mold but I've found when shopping for these there are some that sell for 35-40$ and some that sell for 90-100$, is there any serious difference between the two both are CNC aluminum but the ones on Do its sites are 100 the others like cabelas are 40$.
Also curious if Do-it makes a multi cavity tube mold for doing more than one at once as my main fish is smallmouth so I'm mainly interested in making senkos, tubes, and flukes.
I dont use GY senkos either due to price so I use the much cheaper and tougher Yum Dingers so I'm not too bothered if the baits arent just like GY senkos.

[bassinfool]

The molds you see listed for $40 on Cabela's are NOT CNC molds they are the sand casted aluminum molds which is why they are significantly more affordable.  These molds still make great baits, they just don't have that shiny look that CNC baits do.  There is a work around for this if that is a deal breaker for you but it honestly doesn't make any difference to the fish; the action of the bait and the manner in which it is presented is what counts.  If you're just getting started in this hobby, I can't recommend the essential series molds enough!  I have several and for the price they simply can't be beat.  You can get 3 or more essential series molds for the price you would pay for just one CNC mold.  Add to that the cost of your plastic, equipment, colorant, flake, etc and the expenses will add up quickly and I would hate for you to drop hundreds of dollars on something you're not entirely set on.  As for the tube molds, DO It only sells single cavity molds to my knowledge but I am sure someone else will chime in soon if that is untrue. 

Last but not least, welcome to the forum and to this addictive hobby!  I think you will find if you decide to embark on this endeavor of bait making that the joy of catching a fish on a lure you made start to finish is well worth the time and effort!

[alwrenn]

Welcome Hokie!

I prefer Do-It molds but there are other manufacturers that sale multi-cavity tube molds.  They won't have the same features and aren't as customizable but they are multi-cavity.

http://www.basstackle.com/910_Tube_p/910-kj-2.htm

http://www.basstackle.com/909_Tube_p/909-kj-2.htm

Enjoy!!

[hokienator]

Thanks all for the replies I'll be sticking with the cheaper molds for now, gonna start with just a single injector then go from there I wanna try double sided baits but thats in the future. My biggest want is to mess with tubes but theyre bit expensive to make it seems with the spline kits and all will be working for a cheaper way to make them possibly by dipping.
 Now to get my recipe for the senkos right!

[bassinfool]

You can do laminates (two color baits) without using a dual injector.  You can either hand pour one side of the mold, clamp, then inject your other color or you can make your own laminate plate using some tin or even a piece of aluminum foil. 

[ctom]

Welcome to the Do-It boards Hokienator.

Bassinfool has pretty well covered your questions and is right on Do-It not having a multi-cavity tube mold. They do offer different tail styles from the original which would allow you to do a switch-change without any hassles.

While I do have and use a twin injector on some baits, most of any that I want laminated I do by hand pouring as Bassinfool has suggested. I use either a teaspoon or a tablespoon for this as I get way better control of the plastic....I do not suggest you raid the kitchen flatware drawer though. Find a nice second hand or thrift store and get a couple spoons for a quarter. Once you get the hang of this "spoon pouring" you can do three four and even five color hand pours and create some awfully nice looking stuff that will make bait shops envious....fishing buddies too.

If you opt for the Essential molds for your senkos you can always give each side of the mold a shot of high gloss, high temperature, auto engine enamel spray paint to get glossy baits.

Again, welcome!

[andrewlamberson]

Like my idol Tom, I hand pour the belly in most my baits.

I have a LOT of molds ( I would be embarrassed to say how many!) And I love the Essential molds. They are a great value  and catch as many bass as a CNC mold (maybe more!).

[bassinfool]

Like my idol Tom, I hand pour the belly in most my baits.

I have a LOT of molds ( I would be embarrassed to say how many!) And I love the Essential molds. They are a great value  and catch as many bass as a CNC mold (maybe more!).

I just hope nothing ever happens to me and my wife sells all my stuff for the prices I told her I paid 

[Lines]

Can I get your wife's contact information just in case there is a sale bassinfool? In the meantime, don't slow down on any purchasing right away. 

[hokienator]

Quick question for the pros here, for my senkos I've gotten regular plastic, softener, and sinking additive or HDA as I've seen it listed on here.  I see all recipes calling for salt or glass bead but I'm not sure why thats required? Just curious as well if the glass bead material is safe for the fish or not and if it has any major downsides?
Also since I only  got one injector for those that pour their bellies for their baits do you let your plastic cool before injecting the body of the bait or do you inject as quickly as you can after hand pouring the belly?

[ctom]

Hok....

If you are using the HDA, you need add nothing else on the order of salt or glass beads. Actually the HDA will make a tougher, yet softer bait.

On the hand pouring one side....as soon as the plastic is poured in and allowed to set until it no longer will move when the mold is tipped on its side you're good to go. When the injection stops, hold a firm pressure on the injector for a ten count. This will assure you of a good weld. Don't pour a hundred half-molds of bottoms to finish a month later unless you wash those with alcohol to remove any oil that has come to the surface on them. Once you get the feel for the hand pouring and just how short you have to wait before closing the mold and injecting you'll truck right along with this technique.

[andrewlamberson]

I prefer HDA for all my dark colors (black /blue flake and watermelon brown with black and red flake. As Tom mentions, it makes a significantly more durable bait.

I use glass bead media (search those words for the info you need to get the right stuff) in my light watermelon with red and black flake.

Most of the time I prefer to use the Do-it wacky jig and change the weight as necessary vs weighting my transparent Senkos.

[hokienator]

Thanks for the help guys that makes sense I just didnt know on the timing between hand pouring and injection I guess the first few tries will be experimental for fun to get my timing just right. Ive just heard of guys having issues with baits splitting if not done right is all.

The HDA is something I dont need much of per batch of plastic I'm assuming I'll do some searching to find a good recipe this weekend.  I'm curious though how does the HDA cause it to sink exactly?
I'm assuming the HDA darkens baits as well since you guys use it for darker colors only?

[bassinfool]

HDA is a grey color and clouds the baits significantly.  The bead media is perfectly safe for the fish, if not safer, than baits using salt since those baits absorb water and bloat.  Bead media is glass which is sand and doesn't absorb moisture so they won't bloat.

[DF]

Thanks for the help guys that makes sense I just didnt know on the timing between hand pouring and injection I guess the first few tries will be experimental for fun to get my timing just right. Ive just heard of guys having issues with baits splitting if not done right is all.

 If you have trouble with the bait pulling apart, increase the temp of the second color for a better bond.
http://custombaits.com/index.php?topic=10328.0