I use createx regular paints along with the wicked series in a few colors. I really like using the standard, fluorescent, and the pearl colors as I like to mix combinations of the three and actually use very few straight up. I like doing the color shifting top coats and interference top coats and use the regular createx gloss top coat for this.
Most of the createx paints are heat set.....you need to give them a shot with a heat gun or a hair dryer on the high setting. I have both a hair dyer and a Wagner heat gun, preferring the latter.
As the finish top coat I use CS Seal Coat in 4 ounce jars and just dip, hang and let drip.
Be sure you have plenty of air brush cleaner on hand as you want to thoroughly clean the gun between colors and after use. As a finish cleaner I run a cup full of denatured alcohol thru the gun working the trigger constantly until the cup is empty.
You'll also want to have a bottle of reducer on hand. While most of these createx paints are gun ready right from the bottle it won't take you long to figure out that they spray and can be "worked" easier when thinned, sometimes substantially. The color shifting and interference top coats I mentioned I thin down pretty good and apply several very light, thin coats until I get the result I want. The createx gloss top coat can also be used with the regular paints to thin them out a little without using reducer until you have gotten the color density you want.
I keep a white pattern board handy so I can spray it to see how the paint flows and whether the paint is of a consistency that will let me get the desired pattern for what I am doing or to check that I have gotten the colors mixed agreeably for what I need.. I suggest you use one and play with some plain black paint and do letters or numbers as well as lines of varying widths so you can get a handle on moving the brush and spraying so you learn to avoid runs and build-up. You'll also do well to try your hand at thinning some paints and practice thin coating, one atop the other, several times so you understand about how long you need to wait between the coats to get a good clean finish. Oh, and do this practicing when you can focus on what you are doing without distraction. Take notes so you can stay ahead of little issues that pop up. Also be aware that room temperature and humidity can play a part here in drying times and paint handling as well as air movement especially inside the immediate area where you are spraying.
Basically air brushing is a simple process that involves, or can involve, many little "conditions". You need to learn what these conditions are....how one thing can affect another and you'll get most of this information from actual use and practice. Mix/use small amounts of paint to start. Don't fret if things aren't what you want...just head to a faucet with an old toothbrush and wash away the errors....as long as you don't heat set the paint. I had a box full of practice bait bodies that say for a couple weeks after spraying and not being totally happy with the outcome and they washed right up after drying that long. Heat set? That changes the wash-the-paint-off game. Have fun at this and don't over-think things.