Teardrop Holes in Beaver 4.5?

[BareKnuckleJigs]

Cold and un-sealed sandcast molds can create vapor [moisture] when +325 degree plastic is shot into the cavities. Between the suddenly heated air and possibly water vapor from the resultant condensation created as cold and hot meet, these pock marks can occur.

If this were the case, we'd never be able to pour LEAD into these molds.  Molten lead introduced to moisture gets EXPLOSIVE...INSTANTLY.

[BareKnuckleJigs]

JRock, you see how those BUBBLE MARKS are in a line, spanning along many of the "scallops" on that bait?
That's because the plastic is trapping small bubbles of air at the scallops as the plastic passes through the cavity.

Those things are going to happen.
Shoot that mold fast and the problem gets worse.
Shoot that mold SLOW and the problem will decrease.

I apologize for being the voice of opposition, yet again, but you've received some wrong information on this thread.

[BareKnuckleJigs]

 👊.BARE.👊
👊.KNUCKLE.👊
👊.JIGS.👊

🤣🤣
🤣    🤣
🤣🤣
🤣    🤣
🤣🤣

🤣    🤣
🤣 🤣
🤣🤣
🤣 🤣
🤣    🤣

🤣🤣🤣
     🤣
     🤣
🤣 🤣
   🤣

[ctom]

Your theory may hold together down there in the swamps BK but up here I am right. No bad or wrong info was given. And I have a whole room full of cnc molds  with very heavy texturing that never, no matter what the injection rate is, create these pock marks while the sand cast molds have unless they're handled differently and almost always the marks show up on baits done in a cold or un-sealed mold.

And as far as lead goes, the wee bit of vapor created will have an effect on the surface of hot soft plastic while the lead weighs much more in comparison to the plastic and it doesn't "give" like the surface of soft plastic. It takes very little vapor to make a pock mark in the plastic and certainly not enough to cause an explosion and most certainly won't have that effect with lead. We're not talking about water drops, we're referring to minute traces of moisture created by condensation during rapid heating creating minute traces of vapor. The porous aluminum in a sand cast mold can hold that invisible moisture and release it as it condenses when heated. Cnc molds are made with extruded aluminum, a wholly separate animal.

[jrock22]

Such great stuff here guys... ty!!! I live in MA. As fir the recipe book, it’s a custom database I built with FileMaker. 

[ctom]

J.... where do you do your injecting? Inside? In a garage? What weight of plastic [soft, medium, hard] and who makes it? How are you heating the plastic?

[BareKnuckleJigs]

You mean here, in the South, in South Louisiana, where moisture/humidity are higher than anywhere else in America? 🤣

[BareKnuckleJigs]

Your theory may hold together down there in the swamps BK but up here I am right. No bad or wrong info was given. And I have a whole room full of cnc molds  with very heavy texturing that never, no matter what the injection rate is, create these pock marks while the sand cast molds have unless they're handled differently and almost always the marks show up on baits done in a cold or un-sealed mold.

[ctom]

Yup. Cold metal, hot plastic.....vapor created by sudden heating....nothing to do with your humidity. or my humidity. Everyone has humidity. I've injected very cold [15 degrees perhaps], dry, Essential molds [3" paddletails] and had the baits come out of the mold leaving dampness inside the cavities and on the baits. The second injection, after wiping the moisture off, made baits that had similar marks to what J was describing. Not lines of marks, just random. It was residual condensation being cooked out of the pores of the metal.

I've injected cold cnc molds too and had moisture form on the molds outside surfaces until the molds got hot enough to stop sweating.

I have cnc jig molds that will sweat like butchers on the outside until the molds get hot if I use them when the molds are cold. Its got nothing to do with anything other than understanding that the two types of metal are different. One is absolutely solid with zero micro pores while the other is full of the pores. The air inside those pores creates the problems inside the cavities until the molds are hot enough to have cooked the condensation out. Sand cast jig molds can show signs of the vapor affecting the jigs surface when the molds are cold. I keep all of my molds in  a really warm environment and take them to the shop only when I am ready to cook plastic or the lead is hot. Some of the essential molds got painted before I started keeping the mold warm. Since then I have zero issues on other Essential molds that are kept warm.

You may have high humidity but we have humidity too and quite often as bad as your summertime humidity. We have the war between hot and cold where condensation is the #1 enemy. Sidewalks and driveways and paved roads sweat. And re-freeze. Siding on houses sweats. Pipes drip condensation in the summer. Move up here and you'll get a whole education in un-seen moisture, especially during the winter when hot and cold don't always get along. Its amazing that I can heat my lead  and have zero issues with moisture as long as I pour it into a warm mold. If I cook a cold re-melt of a solid chunk of plastic or cook new but cold [20 degree or less] plastic, I get moisture issues. If everything is kept at room temperature, no issues. Its just a fact of life up here.

[BareKnuckleJigs]

That may or may not exist in Reality.

I can SEE what JRock's problem is, and it is not moisture.
I got this one, Mr. Tom.
Enjoy another cup of coffee.
Stay warm up there.

[BareKnuckleJigs]

J.... where do you do your injecting? Inside? In a garage? What weight of plastic [soft, medium, hard] and who makes it? How are you heating the plastic?

None of these details are your problem, JRock.

I can name the best and worst plastics out there, but I won't 🤐

[BareKnuckleJigs]

Mr. Tom, if your theory had any weight, his problem would...
1 - Go away after the hot plastic warmed the mold.
2 - Not occur if the mold was warmed with a heat gun.

I can duplicate his problem at will.
I've seen it plenty times, and corrected it many times.
If moisture was his problem, he would likely get foaming on the skin of his baits because that's what molten plastic does when moisture is introduced.

[Lamar]

   If you want to try something pretty cool on the ES beaver mold then paint only one side of it. It gives you a shinny top and dull bottom. Almost looks like a laminated pour. As far as painting the mold I just went to the auto parts store and bought enamel high heat engine paint. Don't buy the dull or satin finish. Then I just spray the whole mold twice and let dry. Then I take a nail and scrap the vents clean. Works great.

  Love the cup Bones !

[BareKnuckleJigs]

Roger dat, Lamar! 👊😁

[ctom]

I can duplicate his problem at will.
I've seen it plenty times, and corrected it many times.
If moisture was his problem, he would likely get foaming on the skin of his baits because that's what molten plastic does when moisture is introduced.

I can duplicate at will too using hot plastic and a cold mold. And I've offered how I corrected it.  If you've seen it and corrected it many times, then tell him how this is done in YOUR camp, but don't tell him my fix is wrong when there may be more than one fix. And I have seen slightly "foamy plastic", as you call it, only in the cup coming from the microwave, never on the surface of a bait I have injected. I pull plastic into the injector from the bottom of the cup so anything on the surface of the cup's plastic is not getting inside my injector, foam or otherwise so maybe that's why you see it.

Like Jrock, I'm a lot closer to the tundra than you are and it just might be that since you don't very often deal with the kind of cold that we do you may not get the same issues as we might. You have a Merry Christmas Gary. BTW, I don't do caffeine.