Cloudy Transparents

[Frank]

Just a thought,dont add anything to the reheats and keep the whole thing in tack. See what happens then. I have never used those colors but I have used the jelly red and Robert told me it does bleed. He also told me if it does not say non bleed then it does. Frank

[BareKnuckleJigs]

Well, Fella's, what happened to BCSteely, apparently happened to me.  A few months ago I made a batch of Watermelon/Red for a Pro and chopped up most of the leftovers to save for later.  Yesterday I looked in my box of leftovers and saw that particular batch had gone cloudy...this Thread was the 1st thing to hit my mind.  I poured the chunks out onto a pan...they smelled strong, a really nasty, synthetic/medicated smell.  I melted them thinking the cloudiness may go away...nope...the smell also stayed.  Before I remelted the mix, I did notice that a few of the runners weren't completely cloudy.

Not sure what the deal is, NONE of my other plastic leftovers had/have this problem.  I guess this is just part of the same problem we have with everything else in our lives...it's manmade and not always 100%.  CCM's product is NOT the problem, because if it was, 98% of my plastic would be cloudy.  Oh well...that mix will just go in the bag with the other Injector/Mold-Warming Plastic.

[ghostbaits]

I know that smell and is it a bit sticky? M-F was like that for me once.

I swear it had something to do with it in the microwave.

Jim

[BareKnuckleJigs]

Roger on'na slightly sticky, Jim Sir.  After I remelted it, I poured it into a pan, it spread out and cooled, it was still slightly sticky...and STUNK.   Maybe it's a combination of things that aren't controllable...and unseen. 

[Jason]

Certain oils can cause plastic to be oily and almost rancid over time. Epoxidized Soybean Oil is a common used ingredient in lure plastic. We specifically avoided it for this reason. Did you add any oils to it?

Jason

[BareKnuckleJigs]

Roger on'na Oil, Jason Bro...it was a 10-12 oz. Plastic mix, I added a small amount of Shad Oil, either 1 or 2 TSP.  A little Watermelon, a little Brown and the flake.  Pretty basic in my shop.  Most of my mixes get the Shad Oil, in varying amounts...but usually either 1-2 TSP, or as much as 6-8 TSP in a mix.  This is the only mix I've had a problem with.  I looked at every other Plastic Ball...they're all fantastic.

[bcsteely]

Does anyone add worm oil to packaged baits that have colours that bleed?  All of my problem baits were packaged dry.

I wondering what effect light whether from the sun or from household lights has any effect as well. 

[Dave]

Does anyone add worm oil to packaged baits that have colours that bleed?  All of my problem baits were packaged dry.

I wondering what effect light whether from the sun or from household lights has any effect as well.

Yes and no! If it's a single color that bleeds I add oil, but if it's a dual color or or a single that's dipped in clear, NOPE....

[fish_4_all]

Just a thought, have you ever isolated which strings turn cloudy? I am thinking that there could be some cooling in the lower parts of overheating in the upper parts that is doing something to the colorant during injection.

I noticed a few years back that when pouring lead pencil sinkers, the upper ones would slowly start to turn bluer over 10-15 pours. After checking everything I realized the upper part of the mold was getting a lot warmer. I also noticed over a few pours that the ends were not as smooth as the upper part and came to the same conclusion. The upper sections were in contact with the pouring plug just like the eggs molds. This could heat that part of the mold hotter and leave a variance that that colorant doesn't like.

The upper part of the molds for the eggs has a section that contacts more plastic and the injector. This could cause a heat variance in the mold over a few pours depending on how fast you are pouring, what you set the molds on and other factors. A mold set on a metal table may cool faster toward the bottom and either keep the plastic pouring properly in the lower ones or maybe the opposite.

It might be that that specific colorant is reacting and changing over time as it cures and sets because of the heat variance.

Or I could be thinking too much as my wife points out plenty often.

[kipbass]

I just found some old craws that began to turn white and hard. They were shot in blue gill so there was only one to two drops of black, the rest was glitter. They smelled minty too.
Now my baits sitting in bags with worm oil are making the oil turn slight yellow. ?? I'm going to try and leave them in a storage tub out of the light.

[ghostbaits]

I just found some old craws that began to turn white and hard. They were shot in blue gill so there was only one to two drops of black, the rest was glitter. They smelled minty too.
Now my baits sitting in bags with worm oil are making the oil turn slight yellow. ?? I'm going to try and leave them in a storage tub out of the light.

Classic M-F issue...

Jim

[floridagrimp]

lol...if anyone finds out, please tell me!!!  I want to know how to make cloudy, dirty looking transparents in white, brown, maybe a br/lt pink or red mix.

[ghostbaits]

Add salt.

Jim

[bcsteely]

Update

Seems most if not all the eggs have turned opaque now since starting as transparent.  So it was not just a few strands.  Could it be the plastic dries out, kind of how an elastic dries out.  The plastic is not brittle like a dead elastic though.  It has happened to all sizes of eggs from 8mm-14mm (BT and Bears Molds).  As well the BT Egg Cluster mold.  For some reason my Trout worms still remain transparent. 

Didn't seem to matter how they were packed, in laminate bag, sandwich bag, lure box, they all turned.  Back then I never used worm oil to package bleeding colours. 

I haven't done much in terms of making any new plastics but did make a small batch using MF Transparent Fl Orange.  Recipe was 160 drops in 1 cup of plastic.  I made up a few packages.  Some were packaged with worm oil in a laminate bag and some packaged in the laminate bag without worm oil.  Now I just wait. 

[Jason]

You should shoot a control group with no colorant in it as well, different color and a different brand.  It could be the colorant, or the plasticizer it is cut with.  The technical term all of this would be lumped under is "phasing".  It's basically when something is not compatible in a formulation and it migrates out causing the outside to become opaque.  It could be from anywhere... Just need to narrow it down.  Try and control and document everything as well as you can.  Make sure on all your test that you are getting you plastic cooked well, etc.

Jason