2nd Heat Source

[Frank]

You will be very disapointed with that unit. It has a REAL hot spot at the back of the pot on the bottom. It will burn plastic not yellow but black burn. The pot is WAY to thin and when it heats back up the temp spikes and thus the burn. The presto has a pan type kettle which is thick. This prevents burning. The bottom is uneven and hard to clean. Frank

[Igor]

I can heat up less than 1 liter in Presto 05471?

[biglewers]

Presto at Wally world 20 bucks.  I just give the plastic a few stirs and then inject.  Havent had any problems with yellowing or anything.  I do 3 cups at a time.  With the presto pot having  non stick inside, clean up is fast.   I only use mine when I am doing large batches.  I have two pots.   Other than that its micro all the way.

[Frank]

I can heat up less than 1 liter in Presto 05471?

Not saying it wont work but you have to watch it. A presto pot is much more forgiving.

The temp was set at 350 and when I was done this is what I found. Now its just parts. Both products are pretty much the same price too. Frank

[romeo d]

I agree with Frank.  The non coated Presto is not the way to go.  I played with it and had the same results.

[BareKnuckleJigs]

Roger on this bad report!  I guess I should have asked 1st.  I have some ideas to try to make it work better, because I fully intend to use this unit, and not spend any more money trying to get my system right.

[BareKnuckleJigs]

My main "issue" with the popular, more standard Presto's is their higher capacities.  I'm only making baits for personal use (now), and my largest mix is 14 ounces of plastic...that makes aLOT of baits.  With Frank's Report, I'll dig into this unit and probably make a modification, or 2 or 3.  Mostly this unit is for the initial cook, but will be used for remelts if it works well enough.  As I've learned, and said before, that initial heating will make You or break You.

If the pot is thin, it can be shaped.  If it has hot-spots, that's probably where the element is touching or too close to the pot, so I should be able to add some thick layers of 3-4 mil Aluminum to slow the heat conduction, to function the same as thick bottoms on pots/pans.  When I get home this Thursday, my brain and hands are going to tackle this potential Problem Child, put the belt on it's butt and make it kneel in the corner, 'cuz I'M the Boss!  HaHaaa!  ..."If You will not work, You shall not eat"...  No Disassemble!

[kipbass]

Don't know if it's worth the effort, but you could set the pot at 300-320, and pour cooked plastic from a pyrex into it that was cooked in a micro. Can it still burn probably.??

[BareKnuckleJigs]

I firmly believe that the microwave I've been using is most of the problem I've been having.  The 1st microwave I was using didn't have the issues but it now barely works.  I'm wanting to use this Presto 05471 as my main heat source, since the temp is adjustable and it'll hold the temp instead of the heating patterns/fluctuations of a microwave.

Once I got a thermometer I mixed up a 14 oz. batch and started heating.  Once the plastic started getting upto workable-temp it started yellowing, according to the thermometer it was yellowing at 330...that thermometer also takes awhile to get upto temp.  I've been having nothing but problems since I started using this microwave.  That 1st microwave I was using, I could melt and remelt and remelt with zero yellowing.  I've been frustrated, to put it lightly.

That's why I got the little Presto, so I could slowly raise and hold the temp, while mixing so everything was cooked right, initially...keeping the thermometer in it, steady mixing...then bring the temp down to just-shootable once the mix is cooked correctly.  I'm certain the microwave is most of the problem.  One thing I am NOT worried about, is "too many steps" or "not worth the effort" because I'm making baits for myself and time is barely an issue because I have 1-2 weeks off after every hitch.  What my main focus is, is cooking the plastic completely on the 1st heating (so it doesn't turn cloudy later on), zero yellowing/burning, and getting a Top Shelf finished product, which is defined BY no yellowing and cooked completely.

My mind has been grinding away since Franks post.  The 1st thing I'm going to try before I tear into the unit is start at a low temp and slowly increase while stirring.  If that doesn't work (if it burns my plastic), I'm going Surgical.  That unit may look like a Beat-Up R2D2 by the time I'm done, but it's gonna cook some plastic.

[BareKnuckleJigs]

There's going to be some changes in my shop while I'm home next time, and I'm going to take notes on the 2 microwaves.  I THINK the older unit that I 1st used is higher wattage, and a different brand.  The ONLY money I'd be willing to spend would be on a suitable microwave, and that isn't happening soon.

[Frank]

It all sound like you have it figured out. Here is what I found out when I got those. The temp setting has no factor in this. Because of the thin pot when the thermostat tells the heating element to turn on it goes FULL bore trying to get the pot back up to temp and with a thin pot it burns the plastic at the back. If you want to fix it I think a thicker bottom would make a great start. It will also be way hotter at the bottom so it is up to you to keep it mixed and not leave it to long. So it is not a no brainer it will take alot of effort from you to keep it going on the right track. Just like a microwave does. Turning yellow will happen as it stays heated for a period of time so don't think it is not going to happen at all. Some yellow sooner but all yellow in time. I wish I had this info when I first got these units but don't think it would have changed my decision to just get the larger presto. Just my 2Ct's worth. Frank

[Denny Welch]

Frank...what pots would you recommend?  BTW, I did visit Jacobs' website.  I also heard from others that he, like Jason, puts out a good product.  Thanks for sticking up for him.

[BareKnuckleJigs]

Thank You Mr. Frank!
If the element is mainly in the bottom then that will simplify the modification.  As long as I can get the plastic cooked right, and maybe get the main portion of the plastic shot with no yellowing, then that'll be exactly what I'm looking for.  As long as the scraps haven't yellowed (I'll try to work fast) then they're right for remelting.  I can remelt much cooler than 350, and work it in small shots in the microwave.  Even if all I used the 05471 for is the initial cook, if it'll make that happen (as long as I do my part) without yellowing, I'm cookin' with GREASE!

I'm thinkin', 2 small pieces of 1/16" thick Diamond/Tread Plate on the element, between the element and bowl, Treads together to leave the 2 pieces of plate slightly separated, so the Treads only would conduct heat directly.  I could slow it down more by adding more...

[Frank]

I have four model 6000 presto pots. In time I will make a set of purpose built pots for doing this job. Nice ones. Frank

[BareKnuckleJigs]

I'm going to use this method as my 1st attempt, but this idea adds another aspect of possible danger (although, it's no more dangerous than cooking food), so I removed it from Open Forum.  I'll do this at my own "risk", out of sight, out of mind.