Wire bait Keeper modification

[andrewlamberson]

I really like using the wire bait keeper on my jigs...but the swim jigs don't have that option. Not being the type to whip out the Dremel tool and HB Weld ...I've been using this no mod...modification.

I wrap a wire bait keeper to the shank of the hook.

The first step is to put down a base of heavy tying thread and then give it a coat of Sally Hansen's Hard as Nails (or Crazy glue). Make sure you wrap the thread back onto itself so that you lock the thread onto the hook shank.



I then wrap the wire bait keeper to the shank and give the final a coat of Hard as Nails and throw a couple half hitches (a overhand knot). The Hard as Nails really seals the thread and the wire. The picture below shows the wire being wrapped onto the shank. I completely cover the wire in thread.





For jigs with a lead bait keeper, I cut the lead off the shank just past the collar for the skirt using a pair of small gate shears. I just cut the lead behind the collar and then cut of the lead horizontally against the shank and pull the rest off. Below is a football head jig with the lead bait  keeper removed.



For my MadDad 3XLs and MudBugs I cut all the way to the head (removing the collar) and tie on the wire.


The football head jig makes a great looking craw tail. If you put a little crazy glue on the thread..and the wire hook...your craw is NOT coming off! In the pic below I was able to reuse a couple craws that had been used on a Texas rig and already had a couple fish to their credit. They were in the remelt pile....but with the bait hook and crazy glue on the thread I was able to use them again.

[ctom]

Use your imagination on that first head shown as to where the flow of the head's arch might go and then remove the collar from that point back like you have on the football head. Just because the head doesn't have a specific starting and stopping point doesn't mean a little imagination can't take care of that.

As for the thread and the coating. I'd give the wraps a does of flex-coat lite toreally bind things down.

[Muskygary]

On the swim jigs do you still push the plastic all the way up to the head over the ball collar; and doesn't that still rip the plastic? On the football jigs doesn't the head become "loose" from the shears cutting around the ball collar? I was thinking about using a dremel tool for cutting the collar but was afraid I would damage mthe hook.

[Muskygary]

I've also been thinking about soldering the keeper wire on the hook shank.

[andrewlamberson]

No...I still but a skirt on first...then my trailers a kept on by the wire keeper. In the case of the Snootie jig (shown) it has no bait keeper on it of any kind in it's original form.

For example...here is a small Snootie ...with a skirt...and then just the end of the Do-it 2 tail trailer. Great for smallmouth.



I don't have any issues (so far anyway!) with the football heads being loose.  I think the little bend in the wire keeper being wrapped up tight against the head may help.

[Muskygary]

Two other do-it molds I am thinking about adding the wire form to are the grave digger and the Cabelas Wobble jig.

[Denny Welch]

Good post, Andy.  I really like what some of you guys are doing with a series of pictures explaining what you're doing.  It's the whole "...worth 10,000 words" thing.  I especially like the pics with the vice jaws....conjures up happy thoughts. All you've got to do now is get rid of the bands and start tying the skirts with wire. Lol

[andrewlamberson]

If you are good with a dremel tool like CTom is...and can sculpture HD weld like he does...I'd go with the molded in version and save some time..but me and the Dremel tool have had some really bad stories!

[Denny Welch]

Tell me about it.