Author Topic: removing sprues  (Read 4904 times)

Offline kyflyfisher

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removing sprues
« on: 01/30/16 10:50 UTC »
How does everyone remove the rough sprue are off of the jig before painting?  I have been scraping with a pocket knife but that gets old quick. Anyone have a better suggestion? TIA

Offline Dfiene1

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Re: removing sprues
« Reply #1 on: 01/30/16 10:58 UTC »
Twisting the Sprue off makes it a bit cleaner. Then I file it off over a   Piece of sheet metal and dump the filings back into the pot


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Offline ctom

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Re: removing sprues
« Reply #2 on: 01/30/16 11:05 UTC »
Welcome to the Do-It forums Kyflyfisher. Things can get crazy here but its the best of the best that hang here.

If you're cutting with shears you've have some clean-up to do on the heads. The twist off method reduces that and dfiene has got the problem licked pretty much. A medium sized flat file with a fairly fine cut will do and little pressure is needed so its quick and slick.
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Offline Lamar

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Re: removing sprues
« Reply #3 on: 01/30/16 12:57 UTC »
  I just use a small set of snippers and cut it clean. Then open them all the way up and scrap it down flat.

Offline Denny Welch

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Re: removing sprues
« Reply #4 on: 01/30/16 13:01 UTC »
Quote from: Dfiene1 link=topic=8250.msg63366#msg63366 date=   Piece of sheet metal and dump the filings back into the pot


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[/quote

Using sheet metal is a great tip.  Thanks.  I've been using a piece of pine...no more.
Until next time.

Denny

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Offline Carolina Fisher

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Re: removing sprues
« Reply #5 on: 01/30/16 15:43 UTC »
I use gate cutters which you can pick up anywhere for about 8-15  bucks , I got mine at barlows ( http://www.barlowstackle.com/AdvancedSearch.aspx?k=gate+cutters), then I use a small piece of coarse sandpaper for any unsmooth cut offs . I personally don't like the twisting method , its fine on  jigs and larger baits ,  but it makes the area where the hook pokes through the lead softer and can even cause a small gap on shakey heads and smaller lead molds .

Offline kyflyfisher

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Re: removing sprues
« Reply #6 on: 01/30/16 16:29 UTC »
Thanks for all of the replies. I am twisting the sprues off my  casting jigs and will try the file on my next batch. I used to not worry a long time ago when I made my flipping jigs, but I am making swim jigs for myself and a few friends, I would like them to look good.  I am also having trouble getting my eyes to stick to the cured powder painted jigs, I have even tried locktite gel super glue and still having problems. I plan on trying a dab of 30 minute epoxy over them to give a 3d effect after I get a good number with eyes on them. Any other suggestions?

Offline BareKnuckleJigs

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Re: removing sprues
« Reply #7 on: 01/30/16 17:09 UTC »
I use Flush-Cut Nippers for all Lead Parts.  Cut the Sprue, usually in-line with the Hook Shank or Mold Halves, then turn the Lead Part 90-degrees and shave the Cut-Sprue Edge again with the Nippers.  It's not perfect but it's a Time Saver in that Good-Enough-For-Me perspective.

My Erie Jig that I had to modify (collar, lead-flow) gets a Fine Triangle File work-over to bring it to Par.

Get a jar of Clear Gloss Powder Paint.  After Powdering Your 'Heads whatever Color You want the 'Heads, stick the Eyes on, heat with a shot of the Heat Gun then drop a small pile of the Clear Gloss Powder ON the Eye, maybe Smooth and Distribute, now melt the Clear Powder with another shot of Heat...then, to Cure or Not to Cure...
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Offline Dfiene1

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Re: removing sprues
« Reply #8 on: 01/30/16 19:12 UTC »
I usually stick the eyes on after I cure the powder. Then I dip the whole thing past the eyes into CS sealcoat. It's worked well for me so far.


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Offline kevin

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Re: removing sprues
« Reply #9 on: 01/31/16 10:17 UTC »
I usually stick the eyes on after I cure the powder. Then I dip the whole thing past the eyes into CS sealcoat. It's worked well for me so far.


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is the cs better than dt2?

Offline Dfiene1

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Re: removing sprues
« Reply #10 on: 01/31/16 16:10 UTC »
I think they are equal. The CS is definitely easier and quicker to do.


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