That weren't so hard....

[ctom]

....

The one thing that miffed me with this mold was the top injection and shooting two sides. So.....a little drilling and some JB Weld and now I have an end injection mold that does a great job on split colors.

[MT204]

A twin injector then?

[ctom]

Yup.

[BareKnuckleJigs]

So You made a Side-inject into a Top-inject.  Top-inject shoots at the nose.

[ctom]

So You made a Side-inject into a Top-inject.  Top-inject shoots at the nose.

I did. It shoots straight into the cavity. Works like a charm.

[WALLEYE WACKER]

Sweet deal

[Muskygary]

You used JB weld to seal the old sprue entrance? And it stays in place when you open the mold? Would like to see a picture of the open mold if possible.

[olsarge]

Tom's a ripper ninja!

[ctom]

You used JB weld to seal the old sprue entrance? And it stays in place when you open the mold? Would like to see a picture of the open mold if possible.

Here's the pic showing what I did to get front entry. The JB is in the original runner. The other half of the mold is a mirror to this.

[Muskygary]

WOW! Neat trick. That may come in handy on some other molds.

[ctom]

Honestly this mold would benefit from being made as I have altered. The hinge could be discarded if a pair of alignment pins were used. Machining would be cut way down by eliminating the hinge and the cost of the hinge material and screws would go away. But more than anything a mold having an in-line injection such as I have done would boost the flexibility of the mold a lot.

To inject the altered mold I simply used a bench vise in lieu of trying to balance things on the rounded edge of the hinge. Both single and twin injectors are a breeze to inject this with the mod.

[Muskygary]

I love this mold, got one and poured up a couple of baits in Mo Milk, put one on a jighead and threw it off my pier to see how it would run. Three cast and one bass! Yep, it runs good.

[Slow Burn]

Honestly this mold would benefit from being made as I have altered. The hinge could be discarded if a pair of alignment pins were used. Machining would be cut way down by eliminating the hinge and the cost of the hinge material and screws would go away. But more than anything a mold having an in-line injection such as I have done would boost the flexibility of the mold a lot.

To inject the altered mold I simply used a bench vise in lieu of trying to balance things on the rounded edge of the hinge. Both single and twin injectors are a breeze to inject this with the mod.

Doing what you have done would also allow for them to make a multi cavity mold with individual ports so you could still use a twin injector and shoot them individually.  That is if Do-It was potentially thinking about a multi cavity mold in the future.

[2XL]

Groovy ! I like that idea a lot !  What was your process modifying that mold = size bits used etc ?

I am surprised how easy that mold shoots. I expected trouble with dents in the baits due to the size of them but I've not had one issue with dents so far. I have two of those molds. One shoots great every time but the other has a little flash issue if I shoot it too hot. No biggie now that I am aware of the issue. LOVE the action of those baits too. Now that I am back to work, I won't have a chance to give them a good workout until the fall.

[ctom]

What was your process modifying that mold = size bits used etc ?

Using a square with the mold open, find the center of the gate at the head of the plastic and make a scratch on the mating surface at the edge of the mold...the very end of the mold. Clamp the mold securely I used two c-clamps, one to keep the two sides tight together and the other at 90 degrees to keep the sides level to each other. The mold went into a bench vise to hold it vertical for drilling. Using a 1/8" bit on a slow speed I drilled thru between the two side to the original runner just above the turn into the gate. I followed that with a 5/8" but drilling only about 1/4"....just making a pocket deep enough to let the nozzle end of the twin injector to snug up. Then a 7/16 was used to finish cutting into the original runner. After un-clamping and blowing the cuttings away I mixed up the high temp JB Weld and pushed it into each runner half on each side of the mold. When it was "just" setting I used a single edge razor blade to trim the JB flush to the mold face. When it was cured I went across the JB with a fine file as a touch up. Then it was injection time.

I did a few different injections using some old junk colors to see if there were any hidden glitches from doing the mod but found none and did the split color shown....again using re-melts. I did a number of single color shots as well using a standard injector. I have a 4 ounce Jacobs with a tapered nozzle and it shot just fine with the mod done as seen here.

Its actually a simple process as long as one doesn't try to force the drilling. The drilling took less time than the JB part of the mod.