Author Topic: Bubble trouble  (Read 3476 times)

Offline fasteddyc

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Bubble trouble
« on: 12/09/12 18:57 UTC »
I've been happily experimenting with colors and the laminate plate on my 3 inch skinny carrot. Things are progressing nicely and all in all I'm having good success with one exceptio n.. When I shoot reheated plastic, more often than not, I'm getting empty spots or bubbles within the head of the bait or slight depressions along the sides. Is this the result of stirring (i use a handle from a teaspoon) or am I doing something else wrong. Again this only happens with reheated plastic. I am using only one injector, which I make sure is clear between shoots ( Btw those injector tips get plenty hot, lol, so now I always have the gloves on )

Online ctom

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Re: Bubble trouble
« Reply #1 on: 12/09/12 19:31 UTC »
On the dents in the sides of the baits....you're either shooting the plastic too hot or the mold is ice cold...maybe both.

I do a lot of re-melts and each time I start with a cold chunk of plastic I cut it up into pieces about 1/2" square, but before I add them to the cut to heat I pour about an ounce of raw plastic into the cup, add some stabilizer if the color being melted is a light transparent color, then add the plastic piece and stir. I heat about a minute on high [1100 watt microwave] but keep a close eye on the melting progress, being sure to stir the cup when I see obvious melting taking place. Then I heat, stir in 15 second increminets until the plastic is shooting temp. For me that is generally about 340. If I get a lot of micro bubbles at the initial re-melt, I let the cup cool down to about 260 after stirring, re-heat it to 340 and shoot. The bubbles come out of the plastic when it sits idle, but hot and won't come back with the second heating.

There are some here that have problems with re-melts and others do seem to. Adding the raw plastic really is key as is the graduated heating after the first minute. IF you are doing light and/or transparent colors on the re-melts, I suggest using the stabilizer and don't be shy with it. In a 4 ounce re-melt I'll add about 20 drops to the 1 ounce of raw plastic. If you feel that the color has lightened after the initial re-melt add a drop of the color to another half ounce and stir it in good and add it to the cup on your second re-heat being sure to blend it in well when up to temperature.

Bubbles in the head end of the bait can be from many causes but as a rule if you hold some slight pressure on the injector wwhen the mold stops taking plastic can help. Being certain that you fill the injector with more plastic than you need in the mold helps too. Try "topping off" the injector port when you remove the nozzle from the mold....shoot a little puddle of plastic at the port. Bubbles in the head ends of baits usually are from something associated with the end of the injection so playing with things a bit will usually solve the problem. You may want to purge the injector as some people do...fill then eject back into the cup keeping the nozzle submerged and then re-fill and shoot your mold. When you purge the injector the nozzle never comes out of the plastic until it is filled to shoot. On rare occasions a seal leak can let air in the pump too but that happens so rarely I hate to even bring it up.
There are good ships
and wood ships
ships that sail the sea
but the best ships are friendships
and may they
always be ......An Irish Toast

Offline fasteddyc

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Re: Bubble trouble
« Reply #2 on: 12/09/12 21:04 UTC »
Thanks for the reply. You have outlined several steps I was not taking, including the fact that I have been estimating when to inject based on the consistency of the liquid. I have an ir thermometer on order. I'll wait to resume shooting until it arrives. Thanks again.

Offline pjmcla

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Re: Bubble trouble
« Reply #3 on: 12/10/12 00:31 UTC »
Ctom is right on top of it.  I have the 3" skinny and have figured out many ways to mess up an Injection.  Dents are the result of the  plastic pulling away from the side of the mold due to contraction as the plastic cools.  As Ctom said a cold mold will allow the plastic to cool quickly and not be able to pull plastic in from the runner.  A light positive pressure on the injector with it "sealed" to the mold helps to keep a plastic supply to the cavities.  Also as he said hot plastic will contract more as it cools.  This can also be helped by holding light pressure as well.  A cold mold needs to be injected a little hotter than a warm mold, and hugged a little longer.  A thermometer is very helpful.     

Offline fasteddyc

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Re: Bubble trouble
« Reply #4 on: 12/10/12 01:45 UTC »
Thank you. By the way I continue to be impressed by the members of this forum who unselfishly provide advice and encouragement to those needing help. In a small way it's a testament to ' what's right with the world'. In this holiday season it illustrates that giving to others is alive and well and far removed from the cynical view of humanity that many hold. I'm answering this late at night so you will excuse the philosophical reflections. Truly though, your actions are appreciated more than you will ever know.  .....and now to all a good night, with thanks, Eddy.