Author Topic: How to hand pour  (Read 7531 times)

Offline andrewlamberson

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How to hand pour
« on: 11/21/11 17:06 UTC »
I received my new molds today....including the Mad Dad 3 SC Open Pour....so I rushed home at lunch to give them a try.

You are right about the better the open pour mold...the better the bait. I see a significant improvement in my output!

However.... I still suspect they would get a pour grade in a contest! Is anyone aware of any information on how to hand pour so I get better results. My "problems" include:

Shaky hands...Over pour...thus requiring trimming with scissors. Is this "normal"? I saw in one video that he "pushed" the plastic forward as he poured....what the heck does that mean?

How do you get plastic into the tips of the claws without coming out of the mold (flash)?

The bottom (flat side) of the baits still look like caw-caw...bumps etc. Why? Pouring too cold?

Do you use a butane torch to flatten the flat side? If so...in the mold or out? I doubt melting my aluminum mold with a blow torch is covered under Jason's warranty!

There is a lot of information on "advanced" techniques for injection molding on the internet...but there seems to be a real lack of basic/beginner info!!!! Especially on open/hand pours!!!

CCMJR.... How about you do an educational video....or a .pdf booklet on hand pour 101....I would be happy to buy a copy!!!!!
" You can't buy happiness...But you can buy fishing gear...and that's kind of the same thing"

Offline knifemaker3

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Re: How to hand pour
« Reply #1 on: 11/21/11 17:16 UTC »
What are you pouring with?  Pyrex or metal pour pan from LC?  I've found I have the best luck with the metal pouring pans from LC.

What temp are you pouring at?  You still need to get the plastic @230-250 degrees to pour very fine detail.....or at least I do.

Try streadying your hand by resting it on top of the your other hand while pouring.

Practice, Practice, Practice.........and then practice some more!

Handpouring is almost an art to do it well.  Flash will always be a problem, but the more you pour the less you will have.

Good Luck!
God Bless!

Craig Blankenship
Craig's Outdoor Sports
www.craigsoutdoorsports. com

Offline Jason

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Re: How to hand pour
« Reply #2 on: 11/21/11 17:30 UTC »
A warm mold goes a long way in giving you a good bait without cold cracks.  I use every advantage I can get, including an injector at times.  I normally pour pretty warm so it is thin like syrup (330 - 350'ish). 

On the MD3 SC a small injector works well, a metal measuring cup works well (fill it less than 1/2 full or it will want to run down the side of the cup), or if you have skills you can bust them out directly out of the Pyrex.

For the bottom, you over pour so it has a crown.  As it cures it will shrink and be flat.  If you under pour it, it will be concave.

Either JR or I will make a video.  Don't get frustrated.  I'm still just okay, but see it really paying off in other areas.  It's worth the practice.

Jason

Offline andrewlamberson

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Re: How to hand pour
« Reply #3 on: 11/21/11 18:59 UTC »
I poured 12+  Mad Dad 3 SC Open Pours tonight....inside...in the kitchen :o...because my wife is at work until 9.

With the warmer mold, 350 or so degree plastic...and practice, practice, practice....a few actually turned out pretty good!

The mold really makes the difference, the claws fill in really nicely if I "push" the plastic up into the claws from behind, I turn it around and "push" down the arms...then pour the body ....nice and full.

I might actually have a few "good" baits!!!

I also injected a bunch of 1.75" Small Fry's and they are excellent!!!! I even did some hand pour laminates that looked fantastic.

I see why I need to get better at hand pour!!!
" You can't buy happiness...But you can buy fishing gear...and that's kind of the same thing"

Offline pjmcla

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Re: How to hand pour
« Reply #4 on: 11/21/11 19:12 UTC »
You are now seeing how much hand pouring is an art. Back in the good old days I used a couple of cast iron lead pouring ladles from my great uncles plumbing / blacksmithing stuff.  Worked great; held heat very well. One was made to pour lead around packed cast iron sewer pipe.  Check Ebay for plumbers lead ladles maybe. I Heated on a hot plate; and poured into plaster of paris.  I would think aluminum would cool the plastic faster than plaster; but thats a guess.  Maybe preheat the mold with a hair dryer or paint melting gun.
I tried it again when I got my injecting stuff.  Found out it was not like riding a bicycle.  I have lost the touch I used to have.  

Offline romeo d

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Re: How to hand pour
« Reply #5 on: 11/21/11 23:16 UTC »
Few tips..
Hot plastic so that it runs helps, warm molds = less cold cracks
Don't use a full container of whatever you use to pour.  Half filled container or less makes for easier pouring.
If you start getting bumps on the flat side, that usually means the plastic has cooled before you finished pouring the cavity.
Seems like you figured out the "pushing" thing.
Have fun and keep on practicing.

Offline andrewlamberson

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Re: How to hand pour
« Reply #6 on: 11/22/11 18:32 UTC »
Thanks everyone for the tips and suggestions! I poured another 10 Mad Dad 3 SC open pours...and I'll be darned.....the last 6 or so turned out "good"! WOW

I'm really going for it tomorrow night ...and try a laminate Mad Dads.....

Jason: More open pour molds....I'm hooked! (but I'm not giving up my injectors!!!!!)
" You can't buy happiness...But you can buy fishing gear...and that's kind of the same thing"