Mo's Magic 8 inch

[Thump Huntin]

I keep continuous pressure on the injector and let sit in the mold for several minutes.  Only way I could do away with the ripple is when I shoot it at a cooler temps.  I am sure the ripples were places where the plastic was hotter but I stir the tar out of it for several minutes before shooting.  Can't call it but it is what it is and this is what works for me. It would seem to me that the tail being that thin would cool in the mold very quickly therefor not needing to sit in the mold for long before opening it if you were just shooting tails.

[andrewlamberson]

When you say "ripple" do you mean a physical ripple like in a Ribbon Tail worm...or little tiny squiggly lines (knit lines) where the flow of different temperature plastic come together?
Andy

[ctom]

Ripple... as in almost like the hard wavey Christmas candy. I've had it occur in the 3 inch, not the 2 1/2" Mo's. The only time I have seen the waves occur is when I got too anxious about popping the mold open.

[Thump Huntin]

At one point shot the mold and went inside to tuck my daughter in.  This took all of 15 minutes or so, came back out, unclamped the mold and had ripples.

This is what I am talking about.  Now this is more on the extreme side of ripple.  Now a days if I do get them they are way smaller, way smaller.  I stir the snot out of the plastic and if temps are above 310 ish I get them.  But like stated once I dropped the shooting temp they more or less go a way.  I will try once again shooting at a higher temp tonight but previous attempts have been fail.  Either way no harm in shooting at 310 if I can get the cavities filled all the way and a good bait, right?  My new enemy is a few micro bubbles here and there on certain colors! 

[andrewlamberson]

Those are probably "knit lines" which are caused when cooler plastic meets hotter plastic while it is flowing into tail. You can minimize knit lines by using a hotter plastic...but they are really hard to get completely rid of unless you texture the mold to hid them...which would probably make the tail thicker.

Andy

http://www.plastictroubleshooter.com/ThePlasticTroubleshooter/knit_lines.htm

[Thump Huntin]

Yeah it's only on this mold and on the thin tail.  I noticed a 2.5" Flap Jack sample had the same ripple on the tail that I had sent to me by Do-It.  The Flap Jack has a thin tail.

[MO QWACK]

I would think the Plastic is not flowing fast enough due to either hard plastic or not venting fast enough. I preheat my 8 inch "mold"  with worm oil and shoot hotter plastic no problems. Some times it might take a couple shots before it's 100% but after that it's ready to rock

[ctom]

"....which would probably make the tail thicker".
Andy

And spendier.

[WALLEYE WACKER]

What size hook do you use on it mo?

[ctom]

"I preheat my 8 inch "mold"  with worm oil"....per Mo

I'm assuming Mo means that he puts a light coat of oil on the tail cavities when the mold is warmed up for the initial couple shots. I think all of the Mo's series likes to be worked warm. I keep all of my Mo's and a couple others [including that Flapjack] on top of the water heater so the warmth is always in the molds when I want to use them. I do this even in the warm months.

The worm oil trick really helps the plastic to slide when the molds are cool though, just be sure to wipe the excess off when the molds are up to temp. That oil can get into everything and that includes things you don't want it in.

[Thump Huntin]

I preheated my mo magic mold this morning and the tails shot perfect at a higher temp. No ripples.

[Grizz12]

Thanks to all for the valuable info. I was able to get a few to pour, I didn't have great luck with the worm oil but it was the bottom of the barrel for the plastic. I have left for vacation and when I get back I'll try some these ideas. Well I believe I'll try the few I was able to pour in the mangroves of the keys this week.