Mo's Magic 8 inch

[Grizz12]

I got my Mo's Magic 8 inch in, I've been trying to pour with two color injection, single color with an aluminum plate divider, and just straight pour. What I have found is the plastic has to be "hot" to fill the tails(370 degrees) I tried from 330's to the 350's and I would only get partial fill. They do look cool though.

[andrewlamberson]

Try rubbing a small amount of worm oil on the tail section. It will help the plastic  flow.

[efishnc]

Maybe preheat your mold a little in the oven or with a torch?

[Grizz12]

Cool I'll try these ideas. Thanks

[MO QWACK]

The key to all mo magic molds are..... Preheat the molds just warm. Good plastic I use the new do it plastic!!! Kick butt stuff or Mf super soft. Without good plastic they will NOT shoot. A little worm oil every couple shots and it some times helps to shoot horizantal. Once you get em going the shoot great

[Do-It Corp.]

In an effort to keep as much movement as possible, we made the tail as thin as possible and still be able to shoot it consistently.  We tested at several different thicknesses.  Shooting with with a laminate plate will cut it in half and would surely make it more difficult.  With the suggestions above, it could be possible, but it was never designed with that intention.

[Billmo]

Yes there are several things you have to keep in mind when shooting these Mo Magic molds..

• They have to be warm
• They do not like the stiffer plastic(medium blend or hard)
• They do not like the twin injector unless you are shooting hot(340-350) because of this the colors want to swirl.
• Worm oil helps but still doesn't help with stiffer plastic you have to shoot hot
• You also have to shoot the mold pretty fast. Normal hand pressure with the super soft plastic works. Medium up hot and fast. This is my experience with the ones I have. I even opened the vent a little on the tail hoping it would help with the stiffer plastic

[Thump Huntin]

Neve tried shooting with the mold warm but will have to try. I have to shoot mine around 310 or so or else I get ripples in tail. Never had any problem with a twin injector. I get a nice straight line. I shoot it with the twin injector around 330. I have a friend who uses Bear's hard plastisol and he has way better looking tails than mine with the Do-it medium.

[Billmo]

Thump if I try to shoot that bait at that low a temp I don't get a single tail that fills out all the way. and with the twin injector same thing.. If I don't shoot hot and fast the tails don't fill.   I would like to know how you get those thin tails to fill shooting 310 medium or hard plastic.   

[DF]

I have not used one of these molds yet but with other molds that have thin parts clamp placement and pressure can play a role in how they fill.

[ctom]

You can boot up the performance of the tails filling completely by using a small jewelers file to open up the vent at the end of the tail on the vented side AND to add vents in the same location on the tails on the un-vented side. These thin appendages have to be able to breathe, especially in one the size of an 8" Mo's bait. You'll end up with tiny tags of plastic at the vent site on the finished tails but they pop right off and are a whole lot more enjoyable than a half a tail. Given the flow rate of hard plastic, even a bait this large I would think shooting a hard plastic in it would be nothing but headaches, especially in the tail. The first thing I'd do is go to a soft plastic to see if the baits turn out and work from there.

Nominal clamp pressure is needed at the tail portion of the mold on both the 2 1/2" and the 3" Mo's baits using soft plastic that's shot quite hot. With the size of the mold, the mass of the mold, I'd probably worry about warping the mold by heating it with a torch. A couple minutes in a warm oven to get the chill off is preferable but then some warm-up shots with junk plastic is always the best way to pre-heat a mold.

[MO QWACK]

Tom nailed it! The beauty of this bait is the tail is sooo thin which gives it unbelievable action.  Once you get the hang of it, it's as easy as Denny skipping out on the dinner bill

[ctom]

In an effort to keep as much movement as possible, we made the tail as thin as possible and still be able to shoot it consistently.  We tested at several different thicknesses.  Shooting with with a laminate plate will cut it in half and would surely make it more difficult.  With the suggestions above, it could be possible, but it was never designed with that intention.

I made a thin plate to use with each of the 2" and the 2.5" and it was a joke. Before I got a single tail to pan out I fried about four batches of plastic. The larger baits have slightly thicker tails but even splitting a tail 1/16" thick will present problems in my opinion. The split body color is not an issue so maybe just picking which of the two colors you want for the tail color is a better way to go  OR shoot several molds of one color to cut the tails off and re-insert as a tail color even on a split color body. You'll likely have to hand pour a split body color with a third color tail but the end result would well be worth the time. De-laminating is going to be an issue with split tail colors too as the mold will pull that much needed heat out of the plastic very fast. Another option to manipulating the tail color without splitting the tail is a core shot.

The "Magic" in this whole series of baits lies in the tails. I think people should focus on what can be done around the tail but leave the tail alone as much as possible. 

[Thump Huntin]

Just to clarify, I was referring to shooting 2.5" and 3" Mo Magic's.  Don't know about the bigger molds and didn't want anyone thinking I was referring to them.  I took a razor knife to each mold on the side of the tail that didn't have a vent and cut a slit behind each tail cavity.  I only shoot my tails at 310 degrees or as stated I get a ripple effect in them.  I'm sure cutting the vents always me to shoot at a lower temp.  When shooting the body to the tail I run it around 330-340 or so to get a better bond.  I will say out of the 7 molds I have, this mold is the highest maintenance but it is a great bait to fish with.

[ctom]

These baits require a continued pressure on the injector and a health top-off of the sprue. If you un-mold too soon, you get the rippling in the tails you mention.