Essential vs Crystal clear?

[MT204]

I'm still just learning this hobby and started out with a qt of Essential.
Used it up way to fast so went with a 1 Gal of Essential.
From day one I noticed that if I cooked up a batch of Essential for "dipping" eyes etc that it always turned a ...well...burnt amber look.
I cook in about 30 second intervals and use a probe type thermometer (have two both the same) never go over 350-360 on first cook. Just figured that even though it was clear when dipping it sure wasn't in the container.
So not wanting to leave well enough alone I just got a 2.5 of  Crystal clear.
Cooked some up tonight, exactly the same as before and.......well Crystal clear really is crystal clear!
Was there a problem with the Essential?
Any way onward I go.
   

[Jkwbwca]

I experienced the same thing with a gallon of essential I ordered from Cabela's...after speaking with Do-it they thought it may have been a fairly old batch.  Although I wasn't offered a refund or anything I ordered another gallon from Do-it directly.  That batch seems to be much clearer.  I think the manufacturer date is on the container.  I just used up the discolored batch for darker colors.  Do-it also said that I may not have mixed it well enough...I thought I had mixed it very well and did this before every use.  That is my limited experience since I just started this year.  I also made sure everything was clean and dry so I just think it was an old or bad batch.

[ctom]

All plastic has to be kept mixed very well. Even if my raw plastic sits for three or four hours between uses I shake the heck out of it. If I transfer plastic from a 5 gallon bucket to a few quart bottles to set on the work bench I mix the whole pail using a paint blender and electric drill for five minutes before the transfer. I use the Essential and Crystal Clear soft and both are treated and cooked the same way and I can get a bunch of re-melts/re-heats out of my clear before it starts to turn. For comparison, I get more re-melts/re-heats out of my Essential than I do with CC.

I cut out a corrugated cardboard liner to go on my microwave rotisserie for my cups to sit on. Not the thing single layer cardboard but the thicker corrugated stuff. This helps buffer against hot spots that can develop between glass cooking cups and the glass shelf in the micro.

Checking temperature as you cook should be done in center mass of the plastic in the cup with the probe touching nothing but plastic....no cup bottom or sides....smack in the middle of the plastic in the cup. And the plastic has to be stirred well during each portion of the cooking with something other than the probe on the thermometer. Those choosing to use the IR thermometers for checking the actual temp of the plastic are kidding only themselves.

Using stabilizer on clear plastic should be a must. And not just a drop or two. In four ounces I'll add about 1/2 tsp initially and as the plastic cools a little during use I'll add 15 drops or so and mix it in well before a re-heat and I mean every re-heat. Before my last use of clear plastic I stir in a good shot of stabilizer so that the plastic has it in there for the next re-melt BEFORE the heat is putt to it. Stabilizer is the only component that cooks out as plastic is heated/cooked and has to be replenished during use or you'll toast the plastic. Transparent and light colors I treat the same way I do clear.

[Do-It Corp.]

The Essential Series typically is more heat resistant to discoloring.  The materials used to produce the ES are less refined than the resins used to make the Crystal Clear.  This makes it more cost effective, but the heavier product make it is more susceptible to separation.  It is very important that it is mixed well before each time it is used.

[ctom]

Something else that merits mention with this topic is that anything being cooked in a microwave will continue to cook and increase in temperature for several seconds even after it has been stirred well. I usually look for 340-342 degrees on the digital as a finish temperature and can watch the temp go right up to the 350 or even slightly higher fully 15 seconds after I have removed the plastic from the microwave. I think this gets people in trouble more often than any other aspect of the cooking process. The only real protection other than short cooking is stabilizer and I use that religiously. I do not get stabilizer in 4 ounce bottles. Pints. 

[MT204]

I'd like to thank everyone for all the input!
I would say I've been very, very happy with the Essential especially just getting started.
Again the only time I've ever noticed the amber color is for dipping and as I said it really didn't make a whole lot of difference on the finished baits.
I didn't have the box to check the date on it.
I do shake the crap out of it in the large container and then put it in qt containers so it"s easier to shake again before using.
I do use the thick cardboard trick as per Tom.
I do use stabilizer!
I do use the probe style thermometers and do agree with Tom on the fact that the temp can and will  continue to rise after coming out of the microwave!
I have experimented with using Pyrex vs silicon (iSi brand) measuring cups, which I do like the silicon a lot better for hand pouring but didn't make any difference on the color.
Bottom line...I was happy that I didn't do "anything" differently than I had in the past and the crystal clear came out clear.
I'm trying the soft formula this time so will have to see how much if any difference it makes on some of the baits I make.
And once again thanks for all the input from this wonderful site!

[andrewlamberson]

One more thing to consider...what is the wattage of your microwave?

A cheap low wattage microwave from Walmart works better for heating plastic than a high wattage model. When I first started I had a high wattage model I learned that I had to heat at 50% to keep from burning the plastic!

[superharmonix]

MT204, I have cooked every plastisol on the market in microwaves, and have gone through the same learning curve as the rest.  I agree with most of the comments here as a result.

...I ordered a 2.5 gallon batch of Essential in February and Over the past 2 months It has bubbled like crazy and yellowed early.  I got ahold of Do-It and was told, and I quote:  "The Essential Series plastisol does have a shelf life and at this point 5 months is pushing it if it is not shaken every other day."

I only use the E.S. fo a very particular application, which I don't typically pour every other day, so I have shaken mine probably once per week as I do others- and it has gone VERY bubbly and yellow.  I know it is not my process, as I do this for a living and a hobby.  I have never had any other plastisol do this after just 4-5 months.  After getting in touch with the guys, Do-It mailed out a new box today, thanks for the great service, Do-It! 

...but I advised they really should put the above on their website as well as possibly on the boxes themselves to help everyone out.

Nevertheless, thank you Do-It, and hope this helps everyone else.