Cloudy Worm curing issues

[2scoopsPLZ]

So im definitely a newbie but I've done extensive amounts of research. J feel like im using all top notch products for soft plastic making. Dead on plastix plastisol, basstackle senko mold, angling AI molds, angling AI colorants and spike it glitter. I made my first batch of senkos the other day and everything came out flawless including the sheen, color, feel and everything in between. My issues came during the curing process where just after a couple of hours of sitting in cool tap water, the baits became extremely cloudy. Not a little bit of cloudiness. So cloudy that you couldn't really even see the glitter inside the baits anymore and they looked completely different than before. I was extremely pleased when I initially pulled the worms from the mold, but after pulling the worms out of the water just a couple hours later I was extremely disappointed in my product. Help please

[ctom]

First off welcome to the Do-It forums.

I'm about 100% Do-It products so I can't really say that I have had similar experiences with the products you have listed as being used, but one thing I am dead set against is water cooling or curing immediately after de-molding. I'll let things set a couple hours and then slide them in a freezer for 12 to 24 hours but never in water.

One issue that is a common one when baits cloud up is not having the plastic reach the right or high enough temperature to fully covert it to durable plastic. Do-It products and many other brands of plastisol require a temperature of 350 degrees be attained in well stirred plastic.

Are you using a probe type digital thermometer to read the plastic temps a few times as the plastic is brought to the conversion point"? If you're using an infrared gun you're not getting the core temperature of the plastic read correctly. You need the digital instant read thermometer with the probe.

The baits look nice in the picture but I can see some clouding in the tail tips. The body color appears to be black or some other very dark color. After being certain that you've got the initial cook up to the proper temperature for the plastic you're using try laying your baits out on a cookie sheet or make a hanging board so you can hang them hanging straight down off the runner. 5 or six days in likely long enough hanging time to see whether they're going to cloud over on you. Forget the water bath entirely. A freezer is a better alternative to force cure baits.

[Lines]

I don't think your curing methods are the problem, but as ctom mentioned, make sure the temperature is at least 350° with a probe type thermometer. Another problem I have had before is not getting the raw plastisol mixed thoroughly before cooking. Both of these things will cause cloudiness and tacky feeling baits after curing.

Missed this: Welcome aboard 2scoopsPLZ

[ctom]

Since you're doing a Senko style bait, are you adding salt or anything to help add weight to the finished worms? Sometimes salt and/or other weighting add-ins can cause cloudiness in the finished baits.

[Slow Burn]

Side note, i used a water bath the other day on some large open pour baits.  Usually i only let them sit in the water for a few minutes but this particular batch i forgot about and left them in there over night.  Found them the next day and the clear side of the laminate was cloudy.  The only thing i could think would make it that way was the water itself, as the minerals in the water.  Shouldn't have since i have a filter on my water line.  Needless to say i put them on the cookie sheet to cure and a couple hours later, the baits were clear as day like they just came out of the mold.  Water was the only other factor that was different then what i usually do.

[Johnny Bass]

I find that all DO-IT products work the best. 
Going to the Saranac lake Region next week (all week) to catch some killer footballs...
The Adirondacks are the best!!!!

[olsarge]

It is definitely your water bath.  I leave mine in a bath for 10 to 15 minutes.  Just long enough to cool the core then lay them out to dry and finish curing.

[Lines]

Maybe it's the difference in how the water company purifies the water in other locations.  I've left baits in a bucket of water for 2 days without any adverse effect. That was in Iowa. I haven't attempted that here in Alabama yet.

[brandx112679]

 
 I totally agree with Olsarge, it's not a good idea to leave your baits in the water more than 10 to 15 minutes at a time, when curing. Especially lighter colors. 

[Les Young]

Mine are in the water just long enough to cool them off a little. I usually make a couple shots of other baits & then get them out & either lay them out straight   or hang them  up by the sprues   to dry. Mine may be in water 10 minutes at most.

[2scoopsPLZ]

Thanks everyone. Our water in south Georgia is known for being very "hard" so I assumed maybe it was an issue with the hard water. The picture was before I cured. I didn't get a picture of any after because I was kind of embarrassed. You couldn't even see the glitter they were so cloudy. Im using a laser thermometer and shooting as im stirring. I typically shoot my mold at 350-365 degrees. I have not added salts due to these being purely a practice run. But what would you guys say the best curing process is? Im worried about baits curing in an awkward position and them holding that position if they're bent or curled any at all.

[ctom]

Get a digital probe type thermometer and you'll be happier.

Lay your baits out as you want them and let them rest for a few days. Curing rates depend a lot on the air temperature, and the baits themselves. A string of Senkos can be hung by the runner allowing the baits to hang straight for curing. Something like a twister tail grub you'll want to lay out to keep the tail flat and as close to the relaxed position as possible. It all depends on the bait when it comes to curing.

[Les Young]

You've been given some great answers. I have some hanging by the sprues on my garage wall over a year old so i know they're well cured.  Like Tom said lay them out straight to where the bait is laying in a natural position like it would in the mold to avoid bending them & on stuff that hanging them by  the sprue will let them keep their natural shape & let them cure. I use long nails with very small (almost nonexistent) heads on them & the ones that i can hang i slip the sprue over the head & leave them until i need them then bag & stick in the boat storage. Then i over look them & make more when i don't need them. lol

[Lines]

Then i over look them & make more when i don't need them. lol

I think a lot of us have that problem.

[efishnc]

Guilty