Modify a Do-It Mold

[unclefish]

I am about to venture into my first mold and had 2 questions - does anyone know the difference between the Do-It molds for the arky weedless and the trokar arky weedless? Second question, has anyone modified them to hold a wire trailer keeper? I am looking to make my own jigs solely for skipping, and I want to add a double wire keeper just like the Jackhammer uses so that i don't have to superglue my trailer.

Thanks!

[efishnc]

Hey, welcome to the forum, Unclefish.

The collar on the Trokar Arky is the only way to go (IMO) as it has a double keeper similar to the Poison Tail, but with a little more spacing that makes it even better (whereas the original Arky has no such keeper collar)... and you can regular EC hooks in the Trokar mold (because they are made on the same sizing dies).

 As far as the wire keeper,  a single keeper is not at all hard (https://custombaits.com/index.php?topic=5654.msg43026#msg43026), but a double would be a little more finesse, especially if using preformed keepers.  It really comes down to what you want and/or what you are comfortable with.

[unclefish]

Thank you! So did you just carve a little bit out of the mold for the wire keeper? And do the trokar arky jigs skip pretty well?

[bigjim5589]

Welcome unclefish!

Do It has had 3 versions of an Arky jig. An older one has a fairly short ball collar, so not really made for plastics. The other has a ring & barb, and then there's the Trokar version. I have all three and have added single wire keepers to two of them. Actually I have 4, as one mold type, is also made in two versions, for two different hooks, an inline eye and a cross eye.

It's as simple as placing a hook in the mold and a wire keeper where you want it, and gently closing the mold to keep it in place. Then using a bench vise, or large c clamp, close it shut. I use two pieces of 2X4 on the sides of the molds to distribute the pressure evenly. The same can be done with two wire forms or you can probably tape them in place using cellophane tape ( scotch tape) since it's very thin.
You will need to use a hook in the mold, otherwise the wires will move.

I'll sometimes touch up the impressed slot with a Dremel & the smallest cutter they make if it's got too much flash. I generally use the WB800 wires in everything, and it's larger than the WB400. I'm not sure how this might work if you try the WB1000 that has two hooks, I've never tried it. That would be easier for pouring if you can get it to work, since it's one wire form, but it may be hard to get it centered because of how it's made. Using two of the other wires, top & bottom on the collar would be easier to do for making the impressions. However, since that mold does have a lead barb, not sure you would need two wires. I added the wire to the bottom of mine since the lead barb is on the top side. It works great holding plastic trailers.

I really like the Trokar Arky head, but have never tried skipping it. As Efishnc mentioned, you can use other 60 degree bend heavy wire jig hooks in it as well. I've used Mustad, VMC, Gamakatsu, Owner & Daiichi in mine.

[bigjim5589]

OK, in checking for some photos, I was wrong about the ring & barb on the one mold.
It looks like this orange jig.

The second photo shows the older type Arky head with the ball collar.

[bigjim5589]

Boy, I'm batting a 1000. This is a the Trokar. It has the same type of collar, no barb.

These don't show the weed guards in place, but you can see the head shape & collar.

This one does have the wire keeper that I had added, using the WB800 wires.

[unclefish]

Awesome thank you! So I was looking at your Facebook page, are the 2 attached pics the arky heads I am guessing?

[ctom]

So did you just carve a little bit out of the mold for the wire keeper?

Welcome aboard unclefish.

Doing one cavity at a time, lay in your hook, then lay a keeper in place where you'll want it and slowly close the mold while keeping it flat until its closed as far as you can get it keeping solid pressure on the handles. When closed tight give the face of the mold back a light rap with a plastic hammer or a large screwdriver hand You will feel the mold "give" when its hit. The metal is soft enough to imprint the keeper. Then move on to the next cavity. Once you've done them all put the hooks and keepers in place, and proof the mold by closing and checking for a complete seal all around. If need be just keep tension on the mold handles and give another rap or two when it's fully loaded for pouring.

[bigjim5589]

Awesome thank you! So I was looking at your Facebook page, are the 2 attached pics the arky heads I am guessing?

Yes sir, those are both made with the Trokar Arky mold. I like the Arky heads and I think that TK head is my favorite. I really wish that DO IT would produce another version of that mold, or at least make that mold so that flat eye hooks can also be used. I sell jigs and many folks want a flat eye hook now, as they seem to prefer them for flipping & pitching. That's my only "con" about that mold, but for my own fishing, I like it.

Also, what ctom has posted is pretty much what I've posted and yes, do one cavity at a time. However, don't apply too much pressure to the handles. That results in the wood handles breaking. I found that out. That's why I use the 2x4 on the mold body to distribute pressure better. Pressure on the handles is fine if all you're doing is keeping everything in place, but since the handles extend past the aluminum, it puts too much pressure on the wood & the screws may break loose, or the handles can split. I had to replace handles on a mold because I made that mistake.  It also puts a lot of unnecessary pressure on the hinges and the aluminum for the handles and you certainly don't want to break them. 

I prefer to "press" these molds rather than hit them with a hammer, but have done that too. Again, I sandwich the mold between 2x4 pieces when I did that so to not damage the mold. These molds are cast aluminum, and they can break. I don't think it happens often, but have known of some folks who broke the handles off.

Just take it slow. It's not a fast process, but can be easily done in a fairly short time. 

[unclefish]

Yes I agree I wish the Trokar allowed for the flat eye hook. As a result I will probably buy both the Trokar arky and regular arky mold.

So where is a good place to buy the lead from?