Newbie question

[Brandonh36898]

Ok

So ive tried 3 times injecting into senko mold

All three times i heat my plastisol up to just above 300 degrees
I pull it up, but i guess my inector is to small because i have to reload well
I try and do it fast , and everytime while i am injecting the 2nd load it hardens up at the inlet of the mold, i am assuming thats causing my 3 3/4 made senkos lol.

I am using lurecraft plastisol

Any tips?
I figured it would take me a bit to get the hang but, i didnt figure this would happen.

[Bass Boys]

 If your injector is too small ,, just leave a senko in the mold so you only inject 3 - leave the one farthest from the injection port in the mold.
 Lure craft  is good plastisol  make sure it gets mixed up good, make sure nothing is settled and stuck to the bottom of the jug .

[Brandonh36898]

Ok
So problem im having for whatever reason when i get to the last little bit in the injector its getting solid on me, i am trying to inject at a decent pace , but seems like without slamming it in, i can keep the last bit from getting hard.

I dont know lol

I made a 6" finnesse worm they came out good.

[bryanmc57]

How big is your injector?  What size senko and how many cavities?  You said your heating your plastisol to 300?  It needs to go to 350 (in stages) to fully convert, then add your colorants and when it gets down around 330 - 325 add your flake and inject.

[Brandonh36898]

Oh really i have been adding my colorants before i heat adding flake after

My injector is a 45ml injector got it off amazon

5" senko 4 cavities but i left a senko in last cavity and tried also didnt work.

What would cause the last little bit to get hard?
I dont want to inject to fast.

[Apdriver]

45ml is only 1.5 oz. That’s not very much plastic. The smallest injector sold by the guys that make our hand molds is 3 oz, IIRC. I have a couple of those and quickly went to a 6 oz. You’re really hamstringing yourself with that small of an injector. So all that being said, follow Bryan’s instructions on heating, if your injector is aluminum, you can preheat it with a propane torch or on an electric griddle turned to high heat…400+…and you may be able to get a second draw from your plastic. You’ll have to try and experiment.  I also preheat my molds in this manner and that will keep your plastic fluid in your mold while you draw a second shot.

[Brandonh36898]

Thanks for the info

I am going to buy a bigger injector

[Bass Boys]

I personally add colorant to cold plastisol . But I have all my recipes wrote down so I know how much to add.  There are some colorants that  do not work well added to hot plastisol. Also add glitter at the end of heating .
 Just what works for me .

[ctom]

Brandon. One other thing is to be certain the plastic has reached the 350 full conversion temperature. The only way to do that without burning the plastic is with a digital thermometer, like what Do-It sells. The infra-red or surface read thermometers are a poor choice for seeing what the core temperature of the cooking plastic actually is.

Adding your colorant to the raw uncooked plastic is the proper way to add color. Glitter is best added at the end of the cook. Re-heats and re-melts do NOT have to get to 350 degrees unless a certain mold is best injected that hot. My re-melts seldom see more than 330 degrees.

[Bass Boys]

 Do any of the plastisol brands say on the container - Make sure you get to 350 degrees ??

[Brandonh36898]

Thanks for the help fellas.

[bryanmc57]

Adding your colorant to the raw uncooked plastic is the proper way to add color.

Not sure there is a "proper" way.  Unless you're using fluorescent colors, either way works just fine.

[ctom]

Putting the colorant into the raw plastic and mixing it well will prevent getting streaks in the finished product. And even non-fluorescent colors can streak if added to cooked plastic. Been there, done that. And trying to stir color into cooked plastic can just whip bubbles into the plastic. Do it however you want, but I've been around the block a few times with the plastic and can say that adding colorant and mixing it while raw is the most problem free way to get color in plastic.

[rmturner54]

Make sure your injecting into a hot mold and using a warm injector. By hot mold I mean just very warm, otherwise a cold mold and injector will suck all the heat away making for a potential back injection.
2nd- When I am using glitter, I always add it first after the plastic has reached its 350F temp. The glitter will always change the color slightly of the plastic.
Then reheat if necessary then add my color.
3rd_i always keep a record of my recipes so I can duplicate the baits that work the best for me.

[Lamar]

 Get yourself a 6oz injector. When I make senko's I inject and then tip my injector and keep filling the spur as the mold sucks it down. As the plastic cools it will pull from the spur. So by slowly adding as it's pulling will keep the spur hot and allow it to pull. It will prevent dents. Just the way I do it.