Author Topic: Jig Making (Read 27800 times)

kipbass · « **on:** 07/20/12 18:59 UTC »

Been watching wired2fish on youtube, I want to learn how to make my own jigs, The guy hosting is named Jason. Hmmm Is it the same guy here? I think I read somewhere that J makes his own jigs...Help a brother out with some tips!

toadfrogbaits · « **Reply #1 on:** 07/20/12 23:37 UTC »

I've been known to do a few back in the day . First thing is don't get caught up in the hype of fancy tools and vises , whip finishers and all that rot . Choose the jig you use the most and remember you are jig tying not fly tying so you don't need a kit . You will need a vise , a couple bobbins , thread , chenille , Pair of very sharp scissors (Fiskars brand will work) , jig heads , Paint (dollar store nail polish will work fine it's mostly a laquer paint anyway. Get some clear for the last coat. ) and lastly your choice of material . I'd start with marabou . Now where do you get this stuff . Crazy Angler After that you will be ready for lessons .

kipbass · « **Reply #2 on:** 07/21/12 05:33 UTC »

I think we're talking about 2 different jigs, but what do I know. LOL...Seriously, I want to make football head jigs and maybe a few others down the road.

swingoil · « **Reply #3 on:** 07/21/12 06:29 UTC »

Kipbass

Check out www.fishboss.com has everything you need to make football jigs plus video instruction by Cliff Pace I think.

toadfrogbaits · « **Reply #4 on:** 07/21/12 06:47 UTC »

Quote from: kipbass on 07/21/12 05:33 UTC

I think we're talking about 2 different jigs, but what do I know. LOL...Seriously, I want to make football head jigs and maybe a few others down the road.

Sure nuf , brain melt on my part . Since I don't use flipping jigs it never entered my mind even though I have molds for that kind of stuff . Eat up with the D.A. last night must have breathed to much paint and plastic .

kipbass · « **Reply #5 on:** 07/21/12 07:03 UTC »

Quote from: toadfrogbaits on 07/21/12 06:47 UTC

Sure nuf , brain melt on my part . Since I don't use flipping jigs it never entered my mind even though I have molds for that kind of stuff . Eat up with the D.A. last night must have breathed to much paint and plastic .

Aww well, don't sweat the small stuff. After all, you were trying to help.

fish_4_all · « **Reply #6 on:** 07/22/12 21:26 UTC »

One tip when pouring jig heads, get the cleanest lead you can find. Depending on the size you want to pour they can be a real pain if using wheel weights or anything with tin or bismuth in them.

kipbass · « **Reply #7 on:** 07/23/12 05:56 UTC »

Quote from: fish_4_all on 07/22/12 21:26 UTC

One tip when pouring jig heads, get the cleanest lead you can find. Depending on the size you want to pour they can be a real pain if using wheel weights or anything with tin or bismuth in them.

Even if you use wax and make the junk float to the top?

toadfrogbaits · « **Reply #8 on:** 07/23/12 11:42 UTC »

Oh yea . the softer the lead the better . No matter what you put in hard lead like wheel weights it won't help make it softer . Unless you just add soft lead to cut the percentage of hard until you can get good casts . Molds with elongated collars and barbs and such can be a pure pain in the neck going much farther down the spine . If you have fiber weed guards get some nylon pins for keeping your pin holes open for casting . Then afterwards remove them epoxy in the guards . Saves a little time and headaches. Most times you can reuse them.

fish_4_all · « **Reply #9 on:** 07/23/12 12:22 UTC »

Fluxing them removes impurities but won't make impure lead pour better. Oxidation and other junk are removed but the other low melt point metals remain as well as denser particles. The other metals, tin, bismuth and others will cool faster than the lead and clog fine points in any pour. The only thing I ever use wheel weights for is large sinkers and pencil lead.

kipbass · « **Reply #10 on:** 07/23/12 15:07 UTC »

Thanks all, good to know

Jason · « **Reply #11 on:** 07/23/12 16:11 UTC »

Quote from: fish_4_all on 07/22/12 21:26 UTC

One tip when pouring jig heads, get the cleanest lead you can find. Depending on the size you want to pour they can be a real pain if using wheel weights or anything with tin or bismuth in them.

Interesting factoid for the day... Did you know if you mix lead, tin and bismuth you create an alloy with a significantly lower melting point, ~250 degrees. Don't ask me how I know... Something about baking my powder coat and just hooks hanging there

Jason

kipbass · « **Reply #12 on:** 07/23/12 18:15 UTC »

So I'm looking at Barlow's, only site I'm familiar with for now. Should I buy pre-made skirts or skirt layers? So many choices of skirt layers, I'm confused.

If I go the layer route; how many layers to make a full skirt? When I called Barlow's, the guy said it was cheaper buying pre-made. Do I want regular bands or umbrella bands?
I have heard of something called a living skirt by a name brand company and a mop jig, that's what I want to create.
On the jig head, what's the norm as far as the eye, flat or standard? Does it make a difference?

superharmonix · « **Reply #13 on:** 07/23/12 19:06 UTC »

Quote from: kipbass on 07/23/12 18:15 UTC

So I'm looking at Barlow's, only site I'm familiar with for now. Should I buy pre-made skirts or skirt layers? So many choices of skirt layers, I'm confused.
If I go the layer route; how many layers to make a full skirt? When I called Barlow's, the guy said it was cheaper buying pre-made. Do I want regular bands or umbrella bands?
I have heard of something called a living skirt by a name brand company and a mop jig, that's what I want to create.
On the jig head, what's the norm as far as the eye, flat or standard? Does it make a difference?

OK, I'll chime in with two cents here:
-Skirts/Bands: If you buy pre-made skirts you won't be able to get your own unique colors, but they are pre done so you will save a little time. I love putting together my own skirts with tabs and coming up with those custom colors you can't really get anywhere else. If you want your skirts to stay flared all the time, use umbrella bands (more expensive). If you want the action to pulsate all the way in and out, use flat bands. I prefer the flat bands because sometimes that profile such as on a swim jig, will mimic gill action on a bait fish. Some folks use wire to tie their skirts, but I don't like wire because it tends to cut through the band relatively quickly.
-Living Image skirts: pro: SWEET patterns. con: .56 cents PER tab. I use 3 tabs on my jigs so you can see the math there.
-Line ties: I prefer a 90 degree flat eye on a stand up jig or anything I want on the bottom with a trailer. On a swim jig if you are just chucking and winding, my opinion is it is user preference...
-where to buy: I won't even try and name all the sources, but there are MANY. Start with ebay and you will find your colors no matter what species you are after.
-Overall: are you selling these jigs or using for personal use only? That is going to be the main question regarding how you are going to want to proceed...

Jason · « **Reply #14 on:** 07/23/12 20:41 UTC »

I buy my skirts from: http://www.fishingskirts.com/

They also have the Boss series if you are cramped on time.

Everything is top notch and most the skirts you buy other places come from here.

I know the owner, it's a family business, and their service is first class all the way.

Jason