FYI... Baits coming apart....

[ghostbaits]

Had a friend that bought some baits off of the net, both 3.5 swim shads and 5" Wutz-Its. Some friend as he did not buy from me!!!!

Anyway, he told me after 3 casts (rigged on a chatterbait) the baits tore apart right down the colors. Almost like they were "glued together and the seam broke". He described the baits and there is no doubt they were made with the laminate plates.

If you are using the plates, you may want to consider a full dip or a real good inspection prior to shipping/selling.

Jim

[ghostbaits]

PS  While I use the twinjector, I still hand pour some bellies on my 3 color baits. I tested a few and sure enough, they peel apart suprisingly easy. 

Looks like a full dip may be in order for my 3 color baits now.... 

Jim

[TheDreamer]

I had the same problem with lami's & belly pours. All I do now is toss the mold on the griddle @ 250-255 and pour/shoot the lami then place it back on the griddle before I finish up the rest of the mold be it 2/3/4 colors and I have yet to have one "peel".



Drew

[Jason]

I think Drew hit it on the head - heat isn't optional.

[412BaitCo]

I took drews advice a while back and it has seemed to make a big difference on this.

[Muskygary]

I was told; heating a mold could warp it.? True or not? How hot are you heating your molds?

[TheDreamer]

I start by placing my injector(s) open end down (without the nozzle) on the griddle, and place my mold (open) and lami plate (non bait side/outside down) on the griddle then I rub a bit of worm oil on the lami plate where the plastic will touch the cavities. As I heat my plastic I prepare my clamp(s) and place my nozzles nose down on the griddle roughly 30-60sec before shooting. Add my glitter/pearl to the plastic, clamp, add nozzle to injector, suck and shoot. After about a minute or so I remove the clamp(s), removing the  lami plate without the baits moving and remove it from the mold then removing the runner, then placing the mold closed with the plastic side down (be it backs on the wutz-it) back on to the griddle. Heat up color(s)(2,3,4) and removing the mold right before the last ding on the micro, clamping it and suck and shoot.

I keep the griddle at 250-255 degrees while shooting lami's, but when doing solid colors I keep it @ 350 using it to keep the Pyrex a touch hotter than if it was on the work bench and also heating my injectors.

Found that removing the nozzles keeps the O-rings from swelling and becoming a pain in the rump. When placing them on the griddle nose down for 30-60sec it allows the nozzle to heat up without the O-ring swelling to the point of having to smack the nozzle into the injector to get it to fit.

When my injectors are on the griddle I first place them nose down on a flat surface (usually a lami plate) then pushing the rod down till the piston becomes flush with the surface then slowly pulling it back up 1-2 inches away from it, thus allowing the piston to be heated without massive swelling/rubbing of the O-rings.

After I started doing this I have been able to almost double my production out of an 8oz batch due to not having a .5"-1" plug between my nozzle and piston (works 10x better at 350 but not for lami's).

Hope this helps,

Drew

*EDIT*
~Also, placing a mold wide open on the griddle @ 250-255 and laying baits in while you heat up your clear then removing them, sticking eyes on and dipping has made the clear dip bond 10x stronger, no peeling/lifting or falling off. It also helps those little eyes stay in place from my fat fingers moving the baits around before the plunge into the clear.~

[ghostbaits]

Wow!!! That is a lot of manipulation.

I was also told that heat above 300 will warp the molds plus cause pitting.

Wont even know as i wont heat my molds.

Jim

[andrewlamberson]

How hot does a mold in constant use get??? (now there's a good use for those IR thermometers!)

[TheDreamer]

If heat above 300 degrees would warp your molds then how could you shoot back to back to back? 350 degree plastic will heat a mold past 300, I have a trick worm mold that I have hit with the IR and clocked it @ 328 when running consecutive shots over and over. Just cant see how they could use aluminum if it had such a low "flash point", allowing a liquid into it @ 350. Seems a bit off to me.


Drew

*EDIT*
The trick mold is a lot thinner than a CCM mold, I will not mention where it's from but you probably already know lol.

[TheDreamer]

How hot does a mold in constant use get??? (now there's a good use for those IR thermometers!)

I clocked mine on the outside after the last shot out of an 8oz batch. The true test would be to take a single cavity mold and shoot it rather fast through 8oz and then measure the temp of the cavity itself. I am no scientist, but 350 degrees over and over in aluminum would seem to bring something higher than 300. Now I am going to go beat the snot out of my Flipster mold with some remelts!


Drew

[ghostbaits]

Shoot 1000 that way and let me know. Seems the mold would not have time to cool between rounds at all and will remain at far higher than nornal temps for a longer period.

Jusy FYI on the bait situation. I won't heat my injectors or molds with other than with plastic in the chance that damage can occur via heating.

Jim

[ghostbaits]

If heat above 300 degrees would warp your molds then how could you shoot back to back to back? 350 degree plastic will heat a mold past 300, I have a trick worm mold that I have hit with the IR and clocked it @ 328 when running consecutive shots over and over. Just cant see how they could use aluminum if it had such a low "flash point", allowing a liquid into it @ 350. Seems a bit off to me.

The other part of the experiment would be to shoot the mold after a minute or so to see how it cooled off vs sitting on a 300 griddle and no cool off between.

No doubt that the cavity will cool regardless of how many times you shoot it when you de-mold and prep for your next round if not on a constant heat source.

I worry about heat as it is since heat is the enemy of production injection.

Jim

PS  After some quick reading, the issue is heating aluminum WITHOUT anything in it. With a substance in the aluminum, heat is not an issue. That may have been what the mold makers were talking about that warned me of the heating on the griddle.

[Jason]

I was told; heating a mold could warp it.? True or not? How hot are you heating your molds?

Aluminum melts at 1220 degrees.   It won't warp on it's own until over 1000 degrees.  The question is what happens when high temps (greater than 500 degrees, but less than 1000 degrees) and pressure is involved...  I'm not sure, but don't believe it is relevant at 250 degrees.  Every day cooking items are aluminum and subjected to 500 degree temps with no ill effect.  The key is to find a balance as it can impact production as Jim pointed out.

When thing slow down some Alex and I will heat some scrap up and see what happens when subjected to pressure.

Jason

[ghostbaits]

Wonder why aluminum pots and pans warp and bend?

Jim