Author Topic: Help!! I'm new to this. Just got the starter kit. Tried to melt some old lures.  (Read 4508 times)

Offline JOHN62

  • Minnow
  • *
  • Posts: 21
  • Avid smallie fisherman, golfer, semi-retired
Melted some Yamamoto Bubblegum worms. What a disaster! They are a foamy substance. I tried to get the heat up and all of a sudden the mix turned brown.

Also in the starter kit from CC there are items and I can't find out how to use them. I've looked at several vidios and they are NOT mentioned.  They are:
1. Heat stabelizer
2. Worm oil
3. Softener

I would be very thankful for any help!!!!!!!!!!!!!!  John

Offline jl3140

  • Lunker
  • *****
  • Posts: 654
The heat stabilizer helps to prevent the plastic from burning and turning brown. It is essential in all lighter and clearer colors. I tried to go without it in the beginning... It didn't work well haha. I put in a good bit in every color I make before I do the initial heating and then every reheat until I'm done with the color. The worm oil is primarily used in packaging to get the baits to lay how you would like them and so that they don't stick to the sides of the bag when you are trying to get them to the bottom. The softener is to add to the plastic when you want a softer plastic bait. I've never tried the softener so someone else will have to chime in on that part. I hope that helps!

Josh

Offline Bassman2169

  • Kicker
  • ****
  • Posts: 124
Never melted yamamotos, but sounds like moisture in the lure caused the foam, that's my guess.  The stabilizer is for doing remelts or on new plastisol, it helps to keep the plastic from discoloring.  A few drops per batch works well.  The work oil is put on the baits when packaged, to protect the plastic from moisture, give them a nice shine, and keep them from sticking to the package.  The softner is added to plastic to make the plastic softer, especially when using salt in lures as the salt makes the plastic stiffer.  The brown mess you ended up with was the plastisol burning.  If you are just starting, a thermometer would be helpful to make sure you have the plastic at the right temp and keep from ending up with a brown mess.  I just skimmed the surface, but there are plenty of knowledgeable folks on here that can answer any questions.  Feel free to ask.  Welcome to the CCM/Do-it forum!

Offline Bassman2169

  • Kicker
  • ****
  • Posts: 124
We must have been typing at the same time, jl.  The reason I'm guessing it's moisture in the worms, is they are loaded with salt and salt absorbs moisture. 

Offline Botanophilia

  • Lunker
  • *****
  • Posts: 854
Heat stabilizer helps keep your colors stable when heating so they don't discolor.  Really handy for light colors like bubblegum, white, clear, chartreuse, hot pink, etc.  Add it to cold plastisol prior to heating.  Add to remelts when they are getting to be more liquid.  You can do without, but it's helpful.

Add softener to liquid plastisol to make your finished baits softer. 

Worm oil has a ton of uses, from lubing your injector to bagging your baits.  I'm sure a bunch of the guys will chime in here. 

As far as remelts, I've found you need to heat in increments and stir.  I usually will heat for a minute and then stir.  After that I stir every 15 to 30 seconds depending on color and how far along the melting process they are.  (Usually it's 1 min, 30 secs, 15 secs, 15 secs, done).  If you just heat it without stirring you're more likely to burn or discolor your plastic and more likely to get microbubbles. 

I would highly recommend starting out with some fresh plastisol before delving to deeply into remelts, it's just an easier process and will help you become familiar with your equipment.  The most important thing is be safe.  Melted plastisol is hot, and pyrex cups used for melting it can be even hotter. 

Welcome to the forum and the wonderful addiction hobby of making lures!

Offline Botanophilia

  • Lunker
  • *****
  • Posts: 854
Looks like we were all typing at the same time!

BTW, which kit did you get?

Offline 412BaitCo

  • Lunker
  • *****
  • Posts: 612
    • 412BaitCo
Yeah do not remelt powerbait plastics either. You will regret it lol!

Offline TheDreamer

  • Lunker
  • *****
  • Posts: 764
    • CBBD
You must be extremely careful while heating plastic, once the plastic has gotten too hot it will become a black brain like object that is highly toxic.

If you recieved ccm crystal clear plastic in your kit you should first start by pouring two to four ounces into your pyrex/silicon cup and heating ut slowly so you can get a good idea of how long it will take your heat source to get your plastic to temp.

Try getting to the point where you can get your plastic to temp while having little to no air bubbles. Once you have achieved this you should work on adding your colorants to create your plastics of your choice.

It is always best to add your colorant before you heat your plastic to achieve the best color possible.

Once your colored plastic is to temp and ready to shoot/pour add your glitter/flake to the batch, give it a quick stir and it is ready to go.

I will continue this post in the AM, hope this helps. Many of the ppl here on the forum can and will help you out with many things.

Hope all is well,

Drew

PS: Welcome to the forum!

Offline Billmo

  • Lunker
  • *****
  • Posts: 656
John,
I want to say hello and welcome to the forum..  Everyone has given you good advice..

All I will say is stick to CCM plastic, keep a good log book as far as your colors go and heating times go for your microwave and plastic. Oh and get a thermometer for your plastic.  Ask Andrew  ;D

You will learn alot for the guys and gals on this forum.. I know I have, and im still learning.

Bill

Offline Jerry V

  • Global Moderator
  • Lunker
  • *****
  • Posts: 1454
    • Do-It Molds
Hi John,

Welcome to the forum, you've made a very good move by asking questions here.  These guys are as helpful as they come and have already done well to steer you in the right direction.  Stay tuned and keep asking questions.  The gang here will help you get the most out of that new starter kit you've got and then some.  You'll be an old hand before you know it.

Jerry


"What started as a hobby is now a way of life."  Justin9j

"It's a shame I have to work, cause I really don't have time for it." Shane

"A mind is a terrible thing to waste (or) losing your memory sucks."  Denny Welch

"I wonder what the fish feel like on those days when you can't buy a bite?" pjmc

Offline Botanophilia

  • Lunker
  • *****
  • Posts: 854
You must be extremely careful while heating plastic, once the plastic has gotten too hot it will become a black brain like object that is highly toxic.

If you recieved ccm crystal clear plastic in your kit you should first start by pouring two to four ounces into your pyrex/silicon cup and heating ut slowly so you can get a good idea of how long it will take your heat source to get your plastic to temp.

Try getting to the point where you can get your plastic to temp while having little to no air bubbles. Once you have achieved this you should work on adding your colorants to create your plastics of your choice.

I will add that I've found it extremely hard to deal with less than 4 oz of plastisol initially.  I usually start with 4 or 6 oz.  8 oz if I'm mixing up something like watermelon red.  I don't use a thermometer, though I should get one.  My method for new plastic is pretty much the same as remelts.  First minute no stirring.  Then stirring every 15-30 seconds until the plastic is ready.  This will vary depending on your microwave, mine is an old one and probably not super high-powered.  There just isn't enough there in 2 oz to work with unless you're working with a fairly small pyrex.  I use 1 or 2 cup pyrex, starting with 2 oz in a 1C pyrex makes for barely enough for the injector to suck up without getting air.  I really should find a 1/2C pyrex or something else skinnier than a 1C... would be nice to start w/ 2 oz for small baits that I don't need a lot of plastisol for. 

I pretty much always get microbubbles, but they seem mostly confined to the surface of the hot plastisol and they eventually go away from subsequent reheating.  I need to give my pyrex cups a good cleaning, that would probably help.   

Offline gone2long

  • Kicker
  • ****
  • Posts: 373
if you insist on doing remelts for which there is nothing wrong with doing so add a little raw plastisol or heat stabilizer to your cut up remelts it will help with the process of melting but as stated you should really learn working from scratch good luck and keep us posted.

Offline Jester

  • Keeper
  • ***
  • Posts: 78
One thing I will add is if you choose to use heat stabilizer be careful not to use to much. It will cause your baits to be oily. Also be careful with the worm oil. I found that if I use more than a drop or 2 that over time it causes my baits to turn milky in color. On a personal not I have never used heat stabilizer and I shoot alot of light colors. The main thing I do is once the plastic is up too temp I never reheat for more than 15 to 20 seconds. I've reheated chartreuse up to 8 times with no discoloration. If you find that you are having a problem with something in your process you can also use the search feature in the top right corner. Alot of problems have been solved on this forum all you need to do to discover the answer to your question alot of times type a few key words in the search window and hit enter.

Welcom to the forums

Dennis
« Last Edit: 02/05/13 13:18 UTC by Jester »

Offline BareKnuckleJigs

  • Lunker
  • *****
  • Posts: 3122
  • ...the Nut behind the Bolt...
    • https://rumble.com/v10miez-world-premiere-watch-the-water.html
Mr. John Sir...Welcome to the Family!

As You can see, we all sit on the Port Side...pull up a chair and Pass a Good Time.  How's Ya Mom 'n Nem?

Have You seen the Thread/Sticky, "Plastic 101"?  Captain Jason wrote this up a little while back...  http://www.caneycreekmolds.net/index.php?topic=2518.0
« Last Edit: 02/05/13 08:47 UTC by BareKnuckleJigs »
.El Gnaw.

"Drizzle Spoon ROCKS!"  Jerry V
"Wash Your Hands"  BKJ
".DOMINATE."  BKJ

https://rumble.com/v1wac7i-world-premier-died-suddenly.html 👈😎

https://youtube.com/shorts/-I9g2VLfJAk?feature=share 👈😁🇺🇸🇺🇸

Offline t-billy

  • Kicker
  • ****
  • Posts: 384
 Welcome aboard John62. The only thing I would add to the great advice you've already gotten here is, the plastic used by some of the big bait companies isn't suitable for reheating. I tried melting down some Gene Larew craws once. They turned into a black bubbley sludge without ever turning to a liquid state. That mess was a pain to get cleaned out of my pot.----Tim.
A generous man will prosper; he who refreshes others will himself be refreshed.