A couple guys PM’ed me cause I mentioned that I modify my Do-it molds. I’m sure there are other guys who do this and maybe better than me, but this is how I do it so hopefully it will give someone some ideas.
I’m always trying to streamline and simplify my gear. Most guys are trying to add rods, techniques, and baits but I’m always trying to eliminate or consolidate stuff. I went through a lot of commercial jigs trying to find one that would be my Jack-of-all-trades jig and there was always something I didn’t like about each one. I wanted one jig to do everything pretty well. Maybe it was the wrong hook for me, or the trailer keeper sucked, or the head wasn’t working for what I intended. The TABU tackle Open Water jig was the closed I came. It was a modified arky with the medium wire Diiachi hook, compact size for northern fishing on smaller waters, hand tied skirt, and an awesome wire trailer keeper. But at close to $5.00 a jig, the Northern Pike were costing me a small fortune.
When Trokar came out with their Jig hooks, I knew I needed my own molds. So I bought some Do-it molds (6 to be precise) and found that the Standard Bass jig mold was closest to the head shape of the TABU. So, with a dremel and some JB Weld compound I modified the mold to resemble the TABU and accept my TROKAR hooks. Since Do-it came out with the arky model with trokar hooks, I have switched to that but still modified the trailer keeper. The wire trailer keeper is awesome. It holds baits so much better than the little lead spikes. Also, when the one side of a bait starts to tear, you can unthread the trailer, reverse the bait, and hook it through the other side and keep going.
Here is the first step of filling in the existing trailer keeper with JB Weld.
Here is after compound dried overnight and sanded down with fine sandpaper and block. (also shows the hook stud I add which is explained later)
Here are my dremel cutters.
This is the wire keeper I bend out of spinnerbait wire. Similar to the one offered by DO-it now.
This shows the small relief for the wire keeper. You have to open the hook channel back up and then enlarge it slightly to accept the keeper. It’s trial and hopefully not error. I will place a hook and keeper in there and close the mold and see if it closes enough to pour. If not, I tap it on the outside gently with a hammer and that will leave marks and show you where it is hitting and where to remove metal. I use the large cutter to cut a new skirt shoulder which is seen as the ball shape on the mold. I make it that size to add lead back to the jig since filling in the trailer keeper lightens the jig. After weighing the final product, they are the same finished weight.
This shows a spot where the keeper needs more relief.
Next thing I do sometimes is modify from flat eye hook to in line or the other way around. To get an inline eye, I relieve the metal around the hook eye in the mold and then drill a 1/16” hole where I want the hook stud. Then a jewelers screwdriver and a stainless screw will tap itself in that hole. Carefully grind off the head so the mold closes and it’s now ready.
Same concept but with a hook and the keeper laid in there ready to pour
From bottom: the TABU jig, 3/8 oz standard bass mold with modifications (wire keeper and hook stud to bring the eye down in the jig head farther. I didn’t like how the hook eye on this model stuck out so far), ¼ oz same mold
From bottom: New trokar swim jig model as it comes, 1/2 OZ modified with in line eye, same but 3/8 and finished and with wire keeper
From bottom right: Trokar arky modified with wire keeper, next two are 3/8 and ½ oz with green pumpkin paint and weed guards
Green pumpkin and black/blue jigs done with hand tied skirts in arky model
You can see the wire keeper sticking through this grub trailer
Two of my go-to setups
It goes without saying that all my fishing and jigs are done with trokar hooks. I read guys say that other hooks are just as good or that they are too expensive. All of that is ridiculous. All that tells me is that person hasn’t spent much time fishing these hooks. Especially with fluoro line, the effort needed to bury that hook is considerably less. I have experienced near perfect landing percentages even with lighter fluoro lines and casts of greater distances where the stretch would give me less than stellar results with other hooks. Also, they resist rusting better than other hooks. Just my thoughts though, I have no stake with Trokar.
Hope this helps someone.
