Another newbie question - laminate plates

[sim]

Was pouring today and decided to make some laminates with the 2.5" wutz-it...

First run went well - second time, when I pulled the plate - all of the little guys came with it - so I had to push them back in - (thats annoying)

by the time I went to inject the belly color -things were cooler - now, I've done it that way before, no biggie - new plastic 'HOT'

This time, however, all of the top parts semed to have gotten moved around - almost like a core shot - neat in a way - but not uniform and many of the baits are 'deformed' compared to normal

my questions -

a) is there a trick to making sure they don't come lose with the plate?
b) is there a trick to getting them all back in place to avoid flashing?
c) why did the tops move around so much? Was my new plastic too hot or did I inject to 'fast' ?

Other laminates I've done have come out fine - this one was a 'fluke'  - but I'd like to know what I could have done differently - is it becuase the spru got pulled out with the plate?

[ctom]

Your injection of the second color should go in slowwwwwly. The force of the incoming plastic will lift the first color right out of the cavity if you use too much force on the second color.

Make sure the first color is back in the cavity snuggly and slow down.

[sim]

thanks again.

Sorry for all the questions - I figure if I ask them - the next newbie might read them - of course - they'll likely read them right after doing the same things - but...

[Brent]

Jason did a video showing how to Zipper the baits out, basically when you open the mold you place your fingers in V on the baits with the sprue between your fingers, then you pull the sprue and runner back unzipping the bait, which leaves them in the mold.

[sim]

I just cut the sprue off and leave the middle - guess I'll try that next.... better do it over the table.

[Muskygary]

Another problem with laminates is that sometimes you can pull the colors apart or  they'll pull apart. The way I get around this is by dipping the body in clear plastic (when I put the eyes on) I'll dip all the way up till the tail starts. Any part of the bait that has movement like fins or tail you don't want to dip (thick plastic has less movement)

[CrabbyBass]

When using a laminate plate, I brush some worm oil on the plate itself. When I am done making the first injection, I slide the plate back and forth a little using the placement pin as a pivot. Once I get it moving, I then slide the plate off the mold instead of lifting it off of the mold. This works really well with the Wutz-It mold for me. I hope this helps!

Chuck

[Mgaines89]

Your injection of the second color should go in slowwwwwly. The force of the incoming plastic will lift the first color right out of the cavity if you use too much force on the second color.

Make sure the first color is back in the cavity snuggly and slow down.

Thank you! This helped alot! I have had issues with my senkos, being the first time I've used a lami plate. I slowed down my second injection and they came out perfect!

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using Tapatalk

[ctom]

Welcome aboard Mgaines89!

Happy to hear that this helped get you moving. Another thought here...when the injector stops on the second color be sure to hold some moderate pressure on it for 6-10 seconds. The pressure will help eliminate denting issues that may come along and it also helps assure that a solid weld takes place between the two colors. Injecting the second color a little hotter will also help in the weld department.